Kep's 21 Freebie Outrigger PDF template drawing

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Niklas,

Back when the Dumas Hawk was the hot rigger the Styrofoam core was softer. The same white stuff that comes inside any shipped box ,TV radio,electronics . It was used on the rear sponson 1/2" thick When the epoxy cures rock hard.
Yes, but the styrofoam is not so good of a core anyway - at least if you dont strengthen the stress areas.

If you put enough force to it it will brake inside your sponsons and its very hard to repair.

Another problem (I think) when doing rear sponsons - if you use a too soft a foam its tricky to sand the pointy noses on the sponsons as there is so much give in the foam. That is also the case if you use H60 or C70.55 - they are slightly too soft for small sponsons... I would do as Mark suggested, use some strengthening "wood" pieces or use balsa as cores (if you cant get hold of Airex C70.** or Divinycell H** foams). At least the rear sponsons could be made of balsa entirely and only the lower part skinned to get the edges square and sharp.

H7: yes, thats a lot of proeller for a Kep's rigger with rear sponsons and exposed running gear. If you would use a rear ski then its a completely other ball game though. The 1650 is way too much also. The normal Sholund props we use with our well trimmed Kep's riggers is H6 with about 3.4-3.6 cup.

Mark: The Kep's Freebie would be running really light on the front with 4 deg AoA - at least in race waters. But if you run on your own on flat water it could be set-up with 4 deg I would think (but we never test them like that). I haven't measured it lately but I think around 3+ deg is more what the Freebie is best raced at. My latest version do use more built in AoA on the running surfaces though without being too much.
I put the ski on with the rear sponsons but it was bouncy in the rear in rough water so I took the ski off. I am going to try a v shape ski set up with a small flat in the back and see what happens.

David
For heat racing its better to stick with rear sponsons only and exposed running gear on the Kep's. The boat is too light in the rear to be able to use a flat bottomed ski set up as the YAE type of riggers can. Its perfect when testing and running on smooth water but as you have experienced - in race water there needs to be some "drag" in the rear to help settle the rear in the water in the corners. The brass tube and the struts surfaces help "suck" it slightly down in the back and its much better in heat racing.

The main reason why the "JAE" riggers can use a flat (wide) ski only (no rear sponsons) is the fact that the engine and radiogear is more to the back of the boat putting more weight on the ski... If you would have a Kep's type of rear set up (rear sponsons and exposed running gear) on a JAE rigger it would most likely be very hard to get the rear out of the water and it would load the engine a lot.

The front of the strut needs to be chamfered and the area around the brass tube smothened so there's less drag though. If the rear part of the running surfaces of the rear sponsons (front for that matter also) are flat with about 1.5 deg AoA you should be good.

I will take a photo of the rear set-up on my Kep's so you can see.
 
Dave , Thanks your pic was right on with them blocks. Your already there. Let us know how they perform
 
Here's a picture of the rear sponon set-up of my latest Kep's. The '09 version is not entirely like the Freebie but regarding the rear set-up its the same.

The running surfaces of booth rear sponons are set at about the same hight as the lower part of the K&S tube that enters the CMD strut and at 1.5 deg AoA to the water.

/Niklas

Keps21-rear-setup.jpg
 
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Jeremy,

If you downloaded the plans, you just need to have them printed out 1:1. Kinkos is who I use and they come out perfect. Make sure you print out all pages, there is handy information on the extra's page that you will need!

(if this is what your talking about)
 
Hold on for a couple of days and it will be an updated Kep's .21 Freebie V1.09 version available... :)

> New front sponsons, new turnfin location, new turnfin and slightly modified rear sponsons <

It has been well over 700+ downloads of the original Freebie so far, so I thought it was time for an update. :D

/Niklas
 
Well gave it the crash test today. Ran full speed into the cat tails. No damage started it up and keep going.

Broke in the RS-7 sleeve to day. Slammed the pipe in to 7 1/2 and leaned it out fore a little with the H7 and WOW!!! and it went up and down on the RPM's. Seams to hop a little running rich but smooths out real nice when you lean it a little.

Niklas

Can the old boat be updated with the new plans or better to build a new one?

David
 
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Well gave it the crash test today. Ran full speed into the cat tails. No damage started it up and keep going.

Broke in the RS-7 sleeve to day. Slammed the pipe in to 7 1/2 and leaned it out fore a little with the H7 and WOW!!! and it went up and down on the RPM's. Seams to hop a little running rich but smooths out real nice when you lean it a little.

Niklas

Can the old boat be updated with the new plans or better to build a new one?

David
The "old" boat can be updated. Its the same c-c and height on the tubes etc. The rear sponson are updated with no chine angles. The're just easier to make - no huge improvement in how they work. :)

Good night, :)
 
Yes i was talking about what size do i need to make the copies of the pdf files.to be exact to the actual size of the hull.

Thanks,

Jeremy
 
once again all you need to do is copy the file take it to kinkos and tell them to print it 1:1 full size :)
 
Yes i was talking about what size do i need to make the copies of the pdf files.to be exact to the actual size of the hull.

Thanks,

Jeremy
Save the pdf's on your favorite movable storage media - go to a print shop and have them print it at 1:1 (100%) and it will be the right size. As just mentioned though, wait a couple of days and it will be en new slightly updated Freebie available. :)
 
Niklas

I noticed the 4 sided Out rigger emblem. in pic one. Any chance of a decal for that ? also with your KEP'S21 decal. I would love to have one. or 2 Just an ideal
 
Niklas

I noticed the 4 sided Out rigger emblem. in pic one. Any chance of a decal for that ? also with your KEP'S21 decal. I would love to have one. or 2 Just an ideal
Hi Neil, The text says "Öst Kust Outriggers" - as in "East Coast Outriggers" - as in reference to Jesse James "Left Coast Choppers"... LOL :D Ive never made a decal out of it myself - I kind of made the design just for the fun of it. I can send you the vector files (including the Kep's ones) and you can have them made with a vinyl cutter etc...

Send me an PM with your e-mail adress if you're interested.
 
Niklas

I like the new turn fin made one last night. Going to try this weekend also put my data logger in the boat to get RPM,Temp and MPH readings.

What is a good starting point for the turn fin in refrence to th CG.

David
 
Niklas

I like the new turn fin made one last night. Going to try this weekend also put my data logger in the boat to get RPM,Temp and MPH readings.

What is a good starting point for the turn fin in refrence to th CG.

David
Put it as far to the front as possible. On the 1.09 version the mounting holes in the sponson are moved forward also. So on a "old" freebie it would be further back and its not optimal for sure. Optimal it would be about 15+ mm in front of the CG.
 
Had the boat out to day. Very disappointing 31775 RPM at 60MPH with a H7. Still don't have a handle on the set up. Had to run the strut 1/8" higher than the rear sponsons to get it on pipe. Took some tongue out of the prop and also reduced it. The H4 hooks up with the strut lower but no speed.

If I put the strut the way you have it in the pic. It won't get on pipe. What's the trick. Have the rear sponsons at 1/16 above the board.

Well Got more props to try. Keeping my hopes up that it will all come together.

David
 
Had the boat out to day. Very disappointing 31775 RPM at 60MPH with a H7. Still don't have a handle on the set up. Had to run the strut 1/8" higher than the rear sponsons to get it on pipe. Took some tongue out of the prop and also reduced it. The H4 hooks up with the strut lower but no speed.

If I put the strut the way you have it in the pic. It won't get on pipe. What's the trick. Have the rear sponsons at 1/16 above the board.

Well Got more props to try. Keeping my hopes up that it will all come together.

David
You need it to have a real good set up overall (engine, pipe & boat) before you can use a H7 on a Kep's freebie. The H4 or H6 is more like it before you have it going really, really well.

Can you take a photo of its side view (also the complete boat) so I can have a look?

Have you built it 100% as the plans or made any modifications?

See the attachment & give me the measurements and we'll go from there.

/Niklas

Set-up.gif
 
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