Niklas Edlund
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Kep's 21 Freebie Outrigger PDF template drawing
- Thread starter Niklas Edlund
- Start date
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Aaron Johnson
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Thanks for gettin those pdf files back out Niklas
Ed.R
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I'm sure I have asked this before . But how do you go about printing the file to scale to build the boat . I'm curious about it since our club really needs to get more boats going and IF I can build a rigger it may help . We'll see
Thanks Ed
Thanks Ed
Niklas Edlund
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Yes, as Jeremy said - save the pdf's on a memorycard, USB memory, the prefered portable medium, or even e-mail it to a print-shop and have them print it at 100% (on A1 sized paper) and it should be right. The drawings (made in Illustrator and saved as pdf copys) are done at 1:1 scale.
Happy building!
Happy building!
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Niklas Edlund
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The straight aways are 100 meter long (109 yard) and the diameter of the turns are 20 meter (21.87 yard). So basically a lap is about 280 yard long. All heatracing classes run 6 laps. Its basically the same course in all countries that use the international NAVIGA rules.
But our courses are laid closer to the shore then yours I think and the complete heat (drivers and co-drivers) stand on the pontoon all the time, at max we stand about 1 meter above the water on the pontoon. U guys have a drivers stand that provides a much higher and better view I think plus the pitman start your boat and lauches it for you...
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Niklas Edlund
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I wish you all a peaceful Christmas and a Happy new Year!
T
TomMoorehouse
Guest
Hey Niklas? did you anodize a mac engine or is minicars going to start a marine engine line?
and if ya go to the chicago hobby expo again next year.... I live only about 20 minutes away.... love to meet ya!
and if ya go to the chicago hobby expo again next year.... I live only about 20 minutes away.... love to meet ya!
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Niklas Edlund
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Hey Tom,
Yeph, I have a friend that anodized them gold (CMB's)...
I had him do my Sirio heads and flywheels also... Minicars / Marine line-up: One would hope so...! B) We'll see. It will never ever be CMB though.Chicago show 09: we'll see, this years show was kind of crappy (for us) - we have not decided if we'll go next year. This year we made the trip as short as we could as we had much to do at home also. We arrived Wednesday, had a meeting Wednesday evening and then the show on thursday & friday with meetings etc. We shopped a little on Saturday and flew back home on Sunday... If we go next year I'll let you know so we can meet.
Niklas Edlund
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- Dec 14, 2004
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Here's the promised shopping list for building the Freebie.
Metals etc:
- K&S #1149 (old #149) 1/4" brass tube (3ft)
- K&S #132 9/32" brass tube (1ft)
- K&S #1145 (old #145) 1/8" brass tube for tank & cooling water through the radio room (3ft). For the tank you need to anheale it to make the bends.
- Harris Stay-Clean liquid soldering flux or similar
- 60% lead / 40% tin solder
- 0.2 mm thick tin-sheet metal or stainless sheet for making the tank
Materials:
- 8 x 10 mm carbon tubes, 325-345 mm long each (2)
- 8 mm solid carbon rods for sponsons, 90 mm long each (4)
- 8 mm solid carbon rods for where you bolt the sponson tubes in the hull, 100 mm long (2). You can use some hardwood dowels also, even make some nice ones in aluminum.
Sponson foam:
- Divinycell H60 or H80 - W: 60 (2.36") x H: 45-50 (1.77-2") x L: 360 (14") mm blocks for front sponsons (2)
- Divinycell H80 or H60 - W: 25 (1") x H: 45 (1.77) x L: 210 (8.3") mm blocks for rear sponsons (2)
Plywood/wood/etc:
- 1-1.5 mm (1/16) airplane plywood (for templates)
- 6 mm (1/4) okoume/gaboon marine plywood for the tub/hull sides and bulkheads
- 2.5 mm (3/32) airplane plywood for the right hand front sponson inside
- 1.5 mm (1/16) airplane plywood for the left hand front sponson inside
- 1.5 mm (1/16) airplane plywood for front sponson ride pad
- 1.5 mm (1/16) airplane plywood for front sponson top
- 1-1.2 mm (0.04-0.047") airplane plywood for planking the front sponsons except the top
- 0.8 mm (1/32) airplane plywood for top deck of hull/tub
- 0.8 mm (1/32) airplane plywood for planking the rear sponsons
- 12 x 5 mm (1/2 x 3/16) hardwood spruce for under the sponson tubes in hull
- Hardwood spruce for hull nose block and sponson leading edge
- 1.5 mm (1/16) airplane plywood for the hull/tub bottom
- 2 x 4 mm spruce for engine cowl rest in engine bay - you can make it of excess cut-away material from the tub sides also
- 0.8 mm (1/32) carbon fibre sheet for for gluing on the outside and inside of the transom
- 2 mm (3/32) lite-ply for small reinforcements on the bottom side of the top deck
Aluminium:
- 1.6 x 100 x 100 mm (0.062 x 3.8 x 3.8") 7075-T6 aluminium for making the turnfin
(If you dont want to make your own, buy one from CMD. Its not 100% the same but it works.)
- 8 x 10 mm tube for the rubber belows for the servo rods etc (you only need about 40 mm)
- 90 deg angle stock for making the small 3:rd channel needle mount
CMD shopping list:
- Eagle 21-size turnfin (if you dont want to make your own) - cut 1/4" off the trailing edge (if you dont know what I mean I can make a drawing that explains it)
- 3:rd channel fuel valve Kalistratov - fine threaded
- CNC 21-size motor mount system including rubbers, 1/4-20 nylon bolts & nylon washers
- 1 set (3 pcs) – 21 size turn fin aluminium inserts with stainless 4-40 screws
- 0.9" x 4.4" 21-size rudder assembly
– Bullet nosed 3/16” stainless drive dog
– 3/16" x 24” flex shaft
– 3/16” Shaft bushing
– 3/16" propeller nut
– 1/4"-28 flex drive collet for CMB Valvola (if thats what you will use)
– 21-size anti-walk strut assembly
If you want to make your own motor mount rails then you need to buy these instead of the complete system from CMD:
- 4 pcs 1/4-20 nylon "wing bolts" - from CMD, Great Planes, Du-Bro, Fastener-Express etc...
- 4 pcs rubber grommets from CMD or McMaster Carr (9307K39)
- 1/4 nylon washers
- 1/4 x 1/2 bar stock aluminum
- 1/4-20 & 4-40 taps for the motor mounts (you can use a M3 also but you'll get less side adjustment then)
Drill-bits:
- Center-pointed wood drill bits. 6, 10 & 11 mm.
- Also some others drill-bits for mounting rudder, drilling for water tube etc, etc...
Misc:
- You need to make your own Cowl or buy one that fits or run without one...
- Starting belt 15" - Aquacraft AQUB9530
- CMB Valvola or your favorite choice of 3.5 cc marine engine
Linkages:
- Aquacraft GrimRacer radio box seal boot #AQUB9503 (2 sets)
- Du-Bro #369 4/40 x 2/56 ball link for steering servo (the ball link for the rudder is included with the CMD rudder)
- Du-Bro #367 Swivel ball link 2/56 x 2/56 for throttle arm (1)
- Du-Bro #336 Threaded steel coupler 4-40 (1)
- Du-Bro #172 (or #801 - 6 pack or one #173) .072 x 2/56 threaded linkage rod for throttle and 3:rd channel - for the 3:d cannel needle I dont use any linkages though, I cut the threaded part off and use Z-bends at booth ends (2)
- Du-Bro #144 Threaded linkage .093 x 4-40 rod for steering (1)
- Du-Bro #893 servo mounting screws (1 set)
Propellers:
- Aquacraft 44x66L propeller #AQUB9765 - if you have never run a hydro before this is a good prop. If you have a high performance motor (low squish with 60% nitro) it doesnt load the engine enough so the motor doesnt perform its best. Its very easy when launching etc. Very similar to a stock ABC H4 prop.
- Aquacraft 45x68L propeller #AQUB9768 - works good as it is for breaking in the engine or the first time you run the boat. No additional cup is needed to start with. Very similar to a stock ABC H5 prop.
- Octura 1445 with 3.2-3.6 cup. Prepared either by either Mark Sholund (Props 4 you) or Andy Brown (CMD).
- ABC H6 with 3.4-3.6 cup. Haven't tested these yet myself though.
Radio stuff:
- In the plans are two Futaba S9650 for throttle and 3:rd channel needle and one Futaba S9550 for steering. If you choose some other servos feel free to alter the radio mounting to suite your needs...
- 5-cell AAA receiver pack assembled in 3+2 configuration.
Clues:
- ZAP-A-Gap CA glue (green label) 1 oz bottles (2 or 3). You can use other brands also but thats what I use.
- CA kicker. I use Great Planes #GPMR6034 but you can use your favorite brand.
- 5 min epoxy. For small things like gluing in the tubes for the rubber bellows in the bulkheads etc.
- Z-Poxy Finishing Resin #PT40. For impregnating all wood surfaces before painting.
Clearcoat / paint:
- Sikkens Autoclear Plus HS 2K clear and matching hardener + thinner is what I use. I use also spraycan white basecoat and 1K House of Kolor fluo paint that I apply with an airgun.
- You must use a really good 2-component (2K) paint or clear coat system that can withstand the high-nitro content in the fuel.
Thats basically what I can think about right now... To be continued I guess...
/Niklas
Metals etc:
- K&S #1149 (old #149) 1/4" brass tube (3ft)
- K&S #132 9/32" brass tube (1ft)
- K&S #1145 (old #145) 1/8" brass tube for tank & cooling water through the radio room (3ft). For the tank you need to anheale it to make the bends.
- Harris Stay-Clean liquid soldering flux or similar
- 60% lead / 40% tin solder
- 0.2 mm thick tin-sheet metal or stainless sheet for making the tank
Materials:
- 8 x 10 mm carbon tubes, 325-345 mm long each (2)
- 8 mm solid carbon rods for sponsons, 90 mm long each (4)
- 8 mm solid carbon rods for where you bolt the sponson tubes in the hull, 100 mm long (2). You can use some hardwood dowels also, even make some nice ones in aluminum.
Sponson foam:
- Divinycell H60 or H80 - W: 60 (2.36") x H: 45-50 (1.77-2") x L: 360 (14") mm blocks for front sponsons (2)
- Divinycell H80 or H60 - W: 25 (1") x H: 45 (1.77) x L: 210 (8.3") mm blocks for rear sponsons (2)
Plywood/wood/etc:
- 1-1.5 mm (1/16) airplane plywood (for templates)
- 6 mm (1/4) okoume/gaboon marine plywood for the tub/hull sides and bulkheads
- 2.5 mm (3/32) airplane plywood for the right hand front sponson inside
- 1.5 mm (1/16) airplane plywood for the left hand front sponson inside
- 1.5 mm (1/16) airplane plywood for front sponson ride pad
- 1.5 mm (1/16) airplane plywood for front sponson top
- 1-1.2 mm (0.04-0.047") airplane plywood for planking the front sponsons except the top
- 0.8 mm (1/32) airplane plywood for top deck of hull/tub
- 0.8 mm (1/32) airplane plywood for planking the rear sponsons
- 12 x 5 mm (1/2 x 3/16) hardwood spruce for under the sponson tubes in hull
- Hardwood spruce for hull nose block and sponson leading edge
- 1.5 mm (1/16) airplane plywood for the hull/tub bottom
- 2 x 4 mm spruce for engine cowl rest in engine bay - you can make it of excess cut-away material from the tub sides also
- 0.8 mm (1/32) carbon fibre sheet for for gluing on the outside and inside of the transom
- 2 mm (3/32) lite-ply for small reinforcements on the bottom side of the top deck
Aluminium:
- 1.6 x 100 x 100 mm (0.062 x 3.8 x 3.8") 7075-T6 aluminium for making the turnfin
(If you dont want to make your own, buy one from CMD. Its not 100% the same but it works.)
- 8 x 10 mm tube for the rubber belows for the servo rods etc (you only need about 40 mm)
- 90 deg angle stock for making the small 3:rd channel needle mount
CMD shopping list:
- Eagle 21-size turnfin (if you dont want to make your own) - cut 1/4" off the trailing edge (if you dont know what I mean I can make a drawing that explains it)
- 3:rd channel fuel valve Kalistratov - fine threaded
- CNC 21-size motor mount system including rubbers, 1/4-20 nylon bolts & nylon washers
- 1 set (3 pcs) – 21 size turn fin aluminium inserts with stainless 4-40 screws
- 0.9" x 4.4" 21-size rudder assembly
– Bullet nosed 3/16” stainless drive dog
– 3/16" x 24” flex shaft
– 3/16” Shaft bushing
– 3/16" propeller nut
– 1/4"-28 flex drive collet for CMB Valvola (if thats what you will use)
– 21-size anti-walk strut assembly
If you want to make your own motor mount rails then you need to buy these instead of the complete system from CMD:
- 4 pcs 1/4-20 nylon "wing bolts" - from CMD, Great Planes, Du-Bro, Fastener-Express etc...
- 4 pcs rubber grommets from CMD or McMaster Carr (9307K39)
- 1/4 nylon washers
- 1/4 x 1/2 bar stock aluminum
- 1/4-20 & 4-40 taps for the motor mounts (you can use a M3 also but you'll get less side adjustment then)
Drill-bits:
- Center-pointed wood drill bits. 6, 10 & 11 mm.
- Also some others drill-bits for mounting rudder, drilling for water tube etc, etc...
Misc:
- You need to make your own Cowl or buy one that fits or run without one...
- Starting belt 15" - Aquacraft AQUB9530
- CMB Valvola or your favorite choice of 3.5 cc marine engine
Linkages:
- Aquacraft GrimRacer radio box seal boot #AQUB9503 (2 sets)
- Du-Bro #369 4/40 x 2/56 ball link for steering servo (the ball link for the rudder is included with the CMD rudder)
- Du-Bro #367 Swivel ball link 2/56 x 2/56 for throttle arm (1)
- Du-Bro #336 Threaded steel coupler 4-40 (1)
- Du-Bro #172 (or #801 - 6 pack or one #173) .072 x 2/56 threaded linkage rod for throttle and 3:rd channel - for the 3:d cannel needle I dont use any linkages though, I cut the threaded part off and use Z-bends at booth ends (2)
- Du-Bro #144 Threaded linkage .093 x 4-40 rod for steering (1)
- Du-Bro #893 servo mounting screws (1 set)
Propellers:
- Aquacraft 44x66L propeller #AQUB9765 - if you have never run a hydro before this is a good prop. If you have a high performance motor (low squish with 60% nitro) it doesnt load the engine enough so the motor doesnt perform its best. Its very easy when launching etc. Very similar to a stock ABC H4 prop.
- Aquacraft 45x68L propeller #AQUB9768 - works good as it is for breaking in the engine or the first time you run the boat. No additional cup is needed to start with. Very similar to a stock ABC H5 prop.
- Octura 1445 with 3.2-3.6 cup. Prepared either by either Mark Sholund (Props 4 you) or Andy Brown (CMD).
- ABC H6 with 3.4-3.6 cup. Haven't tested these yet myself though.
Radio stuff:
- In the plans are two Futaba S9650 for throttle and 3:rd channel needle and one Futaba S9550 for steering. If you choose some other servos feel free to alter the radio mounting to suite your needs...
- 5-cell AAA receiver pack assembled in 3+2 configuration.
Clues:
- ZAP-A-Gap CA glue (green label) 1 oz bottles (2 or 3). You can use other brands also but thats what I use.
- CA kicker. I use Great Planes #GPMR6034 but you can use your favorite brand.
- 5 min epoxy. For small things like gluing in the tubes for the rubber bellows in the bulkheads etc.
- Z-Poxy Finishing Resin #PT40. For impregnating all wood surfaces before painting.
Clearcoat / paint:
- Sikkens Autoclear Plus HS 2K clear and matching hardener + thinner is what I use. I use also spraycan white basecoat and 1K House of Kolor fluo paint that I apply with an airgun.
- You must use a really good 2-component (2K) paint or clear coat system that can withstand the high-nitro content in the fuel.
Thats basically what I can think about right now... To be continued I guess...
/Niklas
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yurkanip
Well-Known Member
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- Jul 11, 2008
- Messages
- 106
Niklas, Thank you for the templates....I love to build, and it is great that others can use the plans to get started in building. In my opinion, building a boat that will run 60+mph, and take pride that you built it with YOUR hands is something special over a just buying a rtr boat.
Thanks again. My build is coming together on a rigger based on your plans, with some changes of course.
Thanks again. My build is coming together on a rigger based on your plans, with some changes of course.
Niklas Edlund
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2004
- Messages
- 512
Your welcome,
Yes, I agree - to build it yourself is a really nice feeling.
If the freebie can make some people start building again or even to make completely new rigger racers building and hopefully also be active in the racing maybe it would be really, really nice.
Send me some build pics! Please...
-> niklas @ minicars.se - without the space of course...
/Niklas
Yes, I agree - to build it yourself is a really nice feeling.
If the freebie can make some people start building again or even to make completely new rigger racers building and hopefully also be active in the racing maybe it would be really, really nice.
Send me some build pics! Please...
-> niklas @ minicars.se - without the space of course...
/Niklas
Niklas Edlund
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2004
- Messages
- 512
Your welcome - how is the freebie build going...?
Sidenote: I notice for a while now that the extra drawing file for the "car engine" or "Sirio" version of the freebie is downloaded more then the main one for an true in-line "Valvola" type of engine... How's that - any one? Is it just because there is no more Mac motors available and people use Novarossi now?
Have a nice new years eve everyone!
/Niklas
opio
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2007
- Messages
- 846
Your welcome - how is the freebie build going...?
Sidenote: I notice for a while now that the extra drawing file for the "car engine" or "Sirio" version of the freebie is downloaded more then the main one for an true in-line "Valvola" type of engine... How's that - any one? Is it just because there is no more Mac motors available and people use Novarossi now?
Have a nice new years eve everyone!
/Niklas
Well I have most of the pieces cut out but I am waiting on some foam for the sponsons. As far as witch one is being downloaded more i would say to down load both! The non car motor one has the tempelets of the tub and sponsons, or did i miss something on the other drawings?
Niklas Edlund
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2004
- Messages
- 512
"Well I have most of the pieces cut out but I am waiting on some foam for the sponsons. As far as witch one is being downloaded more i would say to down load both! The non car motor one has the tempelets of the tub and sponsons, or did i miss something on the other drawings?"
No you're right. If building one U need to download the main one for the templates even if you will build the "car engine" version. But there still is more people downloading the "car engine" version... One would think it should at best be the same amount of downloads or slightly more for the main one. Just wondering - is there more interest in using "car engines" now then true in-line marine engines...? :unsure:
No you're right. If building one U need to download the main one for the templates even if you will build the "car engine" version. But there still is more people downloading the "car engine" version... One would think it should at best be the same amount of downloads or slightly more for the main one. Just wondering - is there more interest in using "car engines" now then true in-line marine engines...? :unsure:
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dwilfong
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- Jul 1, 2008
- Messages
- 5,968
Down loaded the file to SD card to day and took it to staples. they printed out 2 copies of each file for $15. each file printed out at 100% and came out on different size paper. Thank you for the down load!!!!! Found two rossi 3x2 port 21 just looking for a home.
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