Home-made twin .21 catamaran

[gratte-tout]

Last news :

I received the rest of the parts needed from Tower, 2 "Y" wires with a switcher, rpm sensor and T° sensor for the eagle tree system (e-logger V3), the e-logger should come next week.

The radio bow starts to be more clean :

I machined a little bracket to hold the rpm sensor :

I also machined exhaust outlets, try to be as more as possible "scale"..

Why biyuing a antenna mount, when you can machine it? B)

To glu the two magnets per flywheel, and because I don't want to unscrew the setted vice on my milling machine, to put the direct divisor, I machined a little tool to dril two Ø3.2mm*1.5mm holes for the magnets.

Engines with the sensors (T° and rpm)

To be continued.

 

[topfuel443]

Very nice work Fabrice, I am very much looking forward to seeing this on video!

~James

PS, the exhaust outlets are VERY cool!

 

[HendricX]

You could use the exhaust-outlets also for engine-coolingwater out.

Close a regular M5 nipple with soft-solder, drill 2mm through , drill and tap the outlets.

Even more scale-look :lol:

 

[gratte-tout]

No, because I'm actually thinking about something like that, even more scale look, to have something like that :

But I don't want to let the water from the engine get out throught the exhaust outlet, because I want to see clearly the water coming out the water outlets actually installed near the engines

In the exahaust tubing, it would be difficult to gauge the efficiency of the water cooling system.

If I add something like that, I will pick water on another place.

It would also be interesting to low down the noise, by creating a "water curtain" just in front of the gazes coming out.

 

[Andy Greene]

Looking good Fabrice- how long till she's burning fuel ??? Good thought on the water flow-visual. Would some water passed through the exhaust at the end quiet the boat ??

Andy

 

[gratte-tout]

On the class 1 boats, the water outlets are here to low down the noise, why could it not be efficient on rc boats?

I think I need two weeks to finish it.

This night (it's 00h20 Am here) the radio box is going to be finished with the lid glued. I'm now waiting for the e-logger to finish the wires.

The hull : I juste have to put the ride pads, fill all the holes with "putty" (is it the right word?), resin it, and paint it.

It could be very soon. Next week, I may break-in the engines.

I will make a litlle vid of the twin engine's sound !

 

[Andy Greene]

On the class 1 boats, the water outlets are here to low down the noise, why could it not be efficient on rc boats?
I think I need two weeks to finish it.

This night (it's 00h20 Am here) the radio box is going to be finished with the lid glued. I'm now waiting for the e-logger to finish the wires.

The hull : I juste have to put the ride pads, fill all the holes with "putty" (is it the right word?), resin it, and paint it.

It could be very soon. Next week, I may break-in the engines.

I will make a litlle vid of the twin engine's sound !

Putty is correct. Look forward to hearing them run. I think you already said, but what color ??

 

[gratte-tout]

You're rigt, I didn't tell this.

I told you I didn't know, and today still the same :lol:

I had red, yellow, and black, with little withe, but what more??!!

No idea about the paint scheme.

I will see while starting to paint!

 

[gratte-tout]

I started to wire the E-logger V3.

I followed all steps as described in the user's manual. All seems to be ok, but the 2nd RPM sensor on "live!" mode seems to be drunk : it can't go to "0" when nothing's moving, and no magnets in front of the sensor. I had values more than 50.000 rpm, turning the flywheel with my hands. Strong arms, isn't it?

All is setted (options, # of magnets, how to log two rpm with the throttle pins), magnets are glued as described, gap between sensor and magnets is less than 2mm..

On the real mount, on use in the radio box, the 2nd rpm sensor is more stable, but still don't go to 0 when nothing is moving.

I asked Eagle tree technical support to see with them if anything could be done to solve it.

On real use, values seems to be more real, but I would like to be sure.

I will start to cut the ride pads and glu them while waiting their answer.

 

[gratte-tout]

Last news : ride pads glued (some parts, not finished) and "......." which are the two pieces of wood on the sides of the spanson (those with manys pins)

If someone can tell me the english word I'm looking for, thanks :huh:

 

[HendricX]

From your northern neighbour ;

As they are not on the outside they are not 'sprayrails' so they must be 'strakes' .

 

[gratte-tout]

Hi all,

Thanks HendricX for the translation.

Last news :

All the hull has been resined with epoxy resin, and putted in a big "oven" (it's not the right word, you will understand what I mean) @ 60°C for 3 hours

then I put some putty, and a longgggg work of sanding, finishing with 400 grind paper.

Then, first paint, white color

The radio box is finished, with the e-logger system and all its wires (a lot of..)

Tomorrow, yellow paint, then red.

 

[camaroboy383]

fabrice, i have been watching your build for some time now.. looks awesome, and the machined parts look top notch. the drives amaze me the most,excellent job..cant wait to see a video of it in the water.

 

[gratte-tout]

Next week-end!

Thanks.

 

[gratte-tout]

LAst picture, I've put 3 times white, next yellow and red B)

 

[DJT]

I started to wire the E-logger V3.I followed all steps as described in the user's manual. All seems to be ok, but the 2nd RPM sensor on "live!" mode seems to be drunk : it can't go to "0" when nothing's moving, and no magnets in front of the sensor. I had values more than 50.000 rpm, turning the flywheel with my hands. Strong arms, isn't it?

All is setted (options, # of magnets, how to log two rpm with the throttle pins), magnets are glued as described, gap between sensor and magnets is less than 2mm..

On the real mount, on use in the radio box, the 2nd rpm sensor is more stable, but still don't go to 0 when nothing is moving.

I asked Eagle tree technical support to see with them if anything could be done to solve it.

On real use, values seems to be more real, but I would like to be sure.

I will start to cut the ride pads and glu them while waiting their answer.

Is the screw holding the sensor mount to the motor mount holding a magnetic charge. It looks like stainless, but some stainless will hold a magnetic charge. If the tool used to insert the screw was magnetic, it could have transfered the charge. Just an idea.

 

[gratte-tout]

I don't think, the two screws are the sames, and the tool was not magnetic. And the brackets are in aluminium..

But thanks for your help!

I'm waiting for another answer from Eagle tree, they have answered one time my set was the good one, and needed more informations to solve this, I sent them another mail with the recorded file, I will see what they say.

 

[gratte-tout]

Paint on the hull is finished. I finished with a mettalic varnish.

Next step : re-mount all the hardware!

 

[gratte-tout]

Hi all,

Everything is remounted :

Parts of steel are just here for gluying the rc box.

Breaking and first run next saturday (Sunday we should have snow here 3 months i'm building this hull and waiting for its first runs, snow come back when i'm ready..)

First video soon..

 

[Andy Greene]

Thanks for the update Fabrice- Looks great, cant wait to hear and see it run. B)

Andy