Help/advice needed

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Hey, I just wanted to ask TimD if you have ever got a TT to deto with the stock

or cut-stock head button???
Yes. When testing pipe stingers or once when the air was really bad (bushfire season).

The squish band width on the stock head, even when flattened, doesn't help.

The guys in Malaysia probably won't get away with the head specs I gave you Jerry - they are closer to the equator. HOT, Humid weather.

MalaysianFlyer - do you know anyone with a R.A.D guage? (Relative Air Density) Pylon and control line speed flyers usually have them.
 
Hey Tim, "Flyer" is going to have a couple cut stock buttons, what specs

were you refering too, the low volume ones.

He'll get one button that allows .006 H/S and one that allows for .008

sleeve shims with .008H/S (stock buttons)

A couple cut cranks, one with 65ATDC closing and stock opening

and the other,, oh sheesh, I'm not sure.

Two slightly used piston and sleeves,, one Ex port to 179deg and

the other 182deg.

A "Silver Bullit" standard pipe w/header

And some of my old X637 props.

Whata'ya think?
 
Well I'm not absolutely sure either.. I do know in dry air the low volume is better

Then I can only suppose the reverse is true in they're humid enviro,,,,

I have a bunch of cut stock buttons in various "cuttings", I guess you could

say, that haven't been completely tested yet.

What say you Sunthar, Ya wanna be "head researcher"??
 
"Head researcher" ?? Is that a polite way of saying "exploding guinea pig"??? :lol: :lol:

I don't mind at all Jerry, I have been enjoying tinkering with the engine, and with the info that all of the guys here have been posting, it is a great learning experience as well. Will be happy to test it as you require.
 
:lol: :lol: Well, there shouldn't be any exploding,,I don't think so anyway.

This Hobby requires running the boat and motor many,many times to get

things right. I haven't been able to do that on a consistant basis and some

things just didn't get the attention I wanted to give.

The low volume buttons stepped onto the scene last summer along with

sleeve shims and severe cut's in the crank timings. Gawd, I heard , learned

and tried so many things, so fast in the first half of this year that it made

my head spin.

A few things fell thru the cracks and the stock cut head buttons was one

of them.

With the low nitro and large bubble volumes that you will be testing I doubt

that you will have much trouble with destructive engine problems,,remains

to be seen.

Your going to notice a huge improvement with just the addition of the pipe

and adding in some of the other things would just be icing on the cake, as

we say.

I did run one of these buttons with this very pipe you will be getting, and

I think it was with a .006 sleeve shim, believe it or not it turned a 1440 B/C

Grim prop with 3.46cup and 39.85mm dia. I was not a heat racing set-up

but it was a great straight-a-way prop,,very impressive speed.

It could be allot of fun for you I think.
 
Tim, unfortunately, none of our local flyers are that technically advanced, the RAD gauge is not in use.

Our relative humidity here is extremely high like between 70-90%, this is a weather report for today

Feels Like: 87°

Dewpoint: 75°

Barometer: 29.83 in and steady

Humidity: 84%

Don't know if that info will help.

As for the fuel I use, the most easily obtainable fuel is cool power 30% heli fuel, the others are not always in stock at the LHS around here. Its not so easy due to the fact that the hobby only has a small number of people involved, so the LHS can't always afford to stock up on every item for us. Even the car guys over here usually use 25% sidewinder, and the 30% is very hard to get on a constant basis. Still, am lucky that the heli fuel has worked well so far.

Jerry, that definitely sounds like a lot of fun, I will definitely have to build the WOF for that, or cave in and buy the TS2, which has only just reached our shores this week. (its like 135USD over here!!!! :eek: )

My falcon 3.5 hull wont be able to handle that power I think. I am planning to order the grim prop from mark as well, so its bound to give a lot of people over here a nasty scare :D
 
I think the humidity will make the motor a bit weaker along with the lower

nitro,, but your right, the "Falcon" won't go very far with this motor, upright anyway

Both fuels you mentioned should be fine,, I ran O'Donnell 30% early on.

I don't know your building skills but building a boat can be tricky,, I have

built many RC planes, even up to the Balsa USA 3rd scale Stearman bi-plane.

Especially the WOF type which requires you to build accurate "shapes" first,

then the "sheeting". Much different than the "structure"(open framework)

then the sheeting.

Personally, I have not built a single boat, I had a WOF built for me (and one being built)

and the first was not successful, had trouble in the turns,,haven't got it right

after two reconstructions.

I'm not telling you not to do it, I just want to make you aware of the possible problems.

The TS2 is a "proven" design and that aspect is what I focus on, it'll save you

some misery at the pond and you'll have enough of that .

now this is where the "nay-sayer's" jump in,,,usually :ph34r:

(now that's Not a nay-sayer down there) :)
 
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I agree the building is tricky, and my building skills are average at best., which is why I havent started on it yet. I have seen OBnuts site on the build up, and will be using that as a guide.

Fortunately, I have a more experienced builder over here who will be helping me out, so it should be fine (hopefully). This time of course, I will make sure that i am doing it the right way with the right tools, so it doesnt end up like my engine :D

Jerry Dunlap, I actually chose the WOF because I was told it is a better design than the TS2 and more suited for racing, as you are the designer of both, perhaps you can confirm this.

Thanks guys.
 
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Jerry, that definitely sounds like a lot of fun, I will definitely have to build the WOF for that, or cave in and buy the TS2, which has only just reached our shores this week. (its like 135USD over here!!!! :eek: )
That's cheaper than what they sell for in Australia, and it's still a bargain buy for a fibreglass boat. One of the guys on here (Gmorty) has a TT powered TS2 and it's a very well behaved boat. I drove it and was impressed.

You will find you have major stability issues with your original hull once a pipe and the other "Jerry parts" go into the motor. It would be far better to have a larger / more stable boat such as a TS2 (or something else 27" in length or longer) to mount the modified engine on to.
 
Maybe I should reconsider the hull then, and if so, what would you guys recommend? I admit I am biased to the JD WOF, as I like its look and have heard many positive things about it.
 
Maybe I should reconsider the hull then, and if so, what would you guys recommend? I admit I am biased to the JD WOF, as I like its look and have heard many positive things about it.
Call me bias, if you want to race, buy a LYNX! It's easy to build, setup and drive, fast...

I have TS2/OS & Lynx/Nova Rossi

The TS2 is a great value boat, the Lynx is a great boat.

Regards

Mark Johnston
 
ACKKK!!!! So i bought the plans for a boat that I could have actually bought off the shelf!!! :blink: Colour me frustrated!!! or any other colour that comes to mind.

Any ideas where I can pick up a wood kit like the nemesis? I just finished building and old kit, the OK models Aqualine hydro, and would like to try my hand at more building
 
Merry Christmas and happy holidays to everyone :)

Jerry Wyss, you will behappy to kow that I am slowly getting the guys over here to see the full potential of the TT OB unit. Not easy though considering my only reference is one fried engine!!! :lol: :lol:

Jerry Dunlap will be pleased to know that his TS2 is a big hit here, sold out within a week at all LHS.

Have a good time guys, see you all again after the holiday season
 
A little off topic but since you guys are giving out some secrets, what has to be done in order to make one of these motors run and what kinds of speeds have you guys seen out of them?

~Mitch
 
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Alright thanks. Oh yeah, do any of you guys have a set of the alternate gear ratios for it because I've been told Thundertiger doesn't sell them anymore?

Thanks again,

Mitch
 
Jax, I have one set "1.19:1" left,,I didn't see any benefit from using them

but Tim Duggan did. I didn't give them the exhaustive testing that I did

the 1.04:1 set,,heck at one time they made a 1.46:1 gearset,,Gezz

what were they thinkin' about :blink:
 
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