Before I build, I need . . . what?

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Glued together fingers, been there and done that:eek:
What I found over the years is that if you do a neat build and don't over-apply the CA or epoxy, you normally won't have that problem. As someone said earlier, wipe off excess glue as soon as possible and refrain from slathering it on like BBQ sauce and you will find your boat will be lighter and you won't have skin stuck to it. It will also save you time and money since you won't be wasting time or sandpaper with unneeded sanding to remove the excess(Thank You Mr Cathey) and, what no one has said yet, epoxy isn't something you are going to want to waste. I use West Systems and, for a gallon sized can of just resin, it's $120 while the hardeners run roughly $70 for a quart sized can. These are prices listed on the Rockler Woodworking website, along with smaller sizes and accessories to make mixing and using epoxy easier. They also have MAS and System 3 adhesives in stock.
 
I would like to add some useless info. I want to thank everyone for giving their advice and posting pictures of what they have done. I built a couple of Dumas boats 30 plus years ago. Have decided to give it a go and have been building 1/8 Miss Budweiser. I have spoken with several of you and all have been very helpful. Things have changed in 30 years, life Keeps getting in the way, and cost is higher than expected. My project is moving slow, but all you advice is helping, thanks to everyone.
 
I would like to add some useless info. I want to thank everyone for giving their advice and posting pictures of what they have done. I built a couple of Dumas boats 30 plus years ago. Have decided to give it a go and have been building 1/8 Miss Budweiser. I have spoken with several of you and all have been very helpful. Things have changed in 30 years, life Keeps getting in the way, and cost is higher than expected. My project is moving slow, but all you advice is helping, thanks to everyone.
It’s almost always more than you thought. It’s one thing to estimate the cost of wood, hardware, motor, radio and all that, but then you have glues, and tools you may need, and paint and painting supplies, and those things alone can really add up. I’ve probably spent another 100.00 just on various clamps this year and I thought I had enough already. Point is, I feel your pain. Hopefully you get some enjoyment out of the building part and it’s more of a source of relaxation than anything else. Take your time and do it right, you’ll be happy you did.
 
From what I've seen, over the years, two of the three most expensive things needed to build a boat are what isn't thought about:
  1. Paint
  2. Epoxy
  3. Plywood
I mentioned how much it would cost to buy West Systems in the "B" sized containers back in my post at 14. If you take a boat to a shop and have them paint it for you, last time I checked, it was $200 for one color. Obviously, if you have the equipment and such, it can be cheaper to do your own paint work but it's still not cheap. I can buy a 61" square of 1/16 ply for around $75 at a local source, enough to pretty much build and skin a scale boat.
I don't include tools and the accessories in the costs due to the fact that tools aren't used strictly for building boats. I use my tools for many other things so, to add them to the list wouldn't be totally honest. To say that I bought said tools to make building a boat easier would be true, but only when I actually bought them ;)
 
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Cost has been more than planned, but not stopping me. I enjoy the challenge of building it. Learning so much in the process. Like everything in this world, things look easier to do until You do it. taking my time, want to do things right, not expecting a perfect boat, just want to say this site is a big help, everyone’s tips and advice is great. Thanks for sharing!
 
Might be a long shot, but I found a slate "countertop" at a local BOE/school auction. It was pulled from a bio-chem lab they were remodeling. It's @ 24"x 60." It's not really large enough to be a complete surface, like for a traditional workbench, but it's a guaranteed flat surface (no matter where you put it). It's pretty hard to beat for flat/true construction (and later on for setup). Only downside is the weight. It's a beast.

If you could fine one that had a sink inset...you'd have yourself a nice built-in trash-hole, or, in my case, somewhere to shove the 17 cowlings I just molded...that suck so bad they won't even support their own weight!!!
 
Funny you would say that, J J. I recently bought a similar one from Rockler Woodworking only to get reprimanded by my supervisor at work for not buying one sooner. Apparently, he's one that likes to work with wood too :oops:
The pull saw I discovered by accident, I had one to cut door trim when installing laminate / hardwood flooring. Then realized it easily trimmed large sheet overhangs, without even scratching the wood surface. Just don’t get the harbor freight one, it does scratch the wood.
 
I don't shop at Harbor Freight. Years ago, I bought a 90-degree clamp from a fairly new local store. It was so cheaply made that it fell apart when I was taking it out of the packaging. I took it back the next day, only to be told that I had to have abused it and they weren't going to honor the so-called lifetime warranty. I haven't gone to one since that happened. Prior to that, I had bought a Chicago Electric 18-volt drill-driver and a 5-speed bench top drill press over a three-month period. I had to partially rebuild the drill press to get it to work properly, right out of the box. As for the drill driver, it lasted less than 3 months before it died as I was using it at work. Bought a second, didn't even last as long as the first. Cannibalized the two and got one to work for a few more weeks. When it failed, I was across the street from a Sears, so I went in and bought a Ryobi made Craftsman Professional Series 18-volt drill driver and trim saw set. Still have that set to this day, though I have worn out three battery packs over the 20+ years I've had it :cool:
 
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