Sport 20 Shovel Nose design

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Seriously, I do like the "hood" on the "White Heat" was it?? Sure satisfies the Rod

G. principal of "fairing" the hood into the deck,(Rodneys "Area 54" design) :p

That "Bud" Bill is holdin' is a Real Beauty, aint it? Saw one of those up here in the NW and somebody musta built it wrong cause everywhere it went the sponsons

were in the air :blink: looked pretty odd
 
I don't know, maybe he is the other BAW, Busy At Work. The Boss must be cracking down on him, we used to e-mail each other sometimes a lot during the day, now he can't have any non-business related e-mails. :(
 
Sorry guys, it has been awhile since i have had a chance to work on teh hull, Ron was right, work really has me jummping right now, I don't even have much time on my breaks to work on it either :( I was able to mess with it a little today, but nothing worth talking about. I'll keep you posted. I'm going to try to work on the cowl next. Those pictures of the white heat cowl are going to really help out wih that. :D
 
Keep after it even if it taks a long time. I have been watching this thead from the begining and when you get done with the plans I am going to be on of the first ones to start building one. I really like the way that it is turning out. :)

Bob
 
wswatzell said:
Sorry guys, it has been awhile since i have had a chance to work on teh hull, Ron was right, work really has me jummping right now,  I don't even have much time on my breaks to work on it either :(   I was able to mess with it a little today, but nothing worth talking about.  I'll keep you posted.  I'm going to try to work on the cowl next. Those pictures of the white heat cowl are going to really help out wih that. :D
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Well it's been "sparce" pickin's without ya Wade. I've got alota "irons in the Fire"

myself, and more than enough Plumbing work to do. I'm having compu-geek help

me with gettin' some pics comin',,have alot of stuff that I've made. Like a "inertia"

bearing removal tool,,really cool :p knock's bearings out of PTO's Easy,no damage

to anything,,same with case's. Take Care and like a friend of mine say's "Work Hard!"
 
Hi Guys,

I e-mailed Wade a bunch of shots of the cowl, been trying to post them but they don't seem to want to take to my photo album. Wade you remember I told you about the rigger I was working on, well I'll have some pics for you on that one in a couple more weeks, it sure is coming along great, real good looking boat, great minds think alike. LOL
 
Bill, I can't wait to see the pictures of your rigger. I plan on building mine as soon as it warms up a bit more, here, since i don't have a heated garage, it is a bit cold to try to work on anything out there. :(
 
Bob, I will finish it, I just can't say how long it will take me to do it. I did start working on the bulkheads, & engine rail placement, but I might redue that, not quite happy with that part yet. <_<

Jerry, I'll try to post a little more about how it is comeing along :D
 
Well, after a bit of a pause in design, (ran out of ideas, & time) I started to work on it again.

1st question, what size plywood would be the preferance for the

bulkheads?

Transum?

top deck?

sponson bottoms?

tunnel area?

engine rails?

Let me know.
 
1st question, what size plywood would be the preferance for the

bulkheads? 1/16 could do 1/32 for lighter

Transum? 1/8 doubled in the center for strut and rudder mount

top deck? 1/32

sponson bottoms? 1/16 bottoms-1/32 sides

tunnel area? 1/16

engine rails? 1/8

if this has a full engine well 1/16 with 1/8 doubler for motor mount

try to design it so common hardware fits

Like how narrow can a 20 mount be 3 "? I know there are 4 inch ones for monos but i think that may be too wide for your boat.

speedmaster rudder mounts are 1" high
 
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The mounts used by Phil in his sport 20 will give you a nice thin tub. They mout through the botom of the boat.

I think it is Mike P that does them (got mine about a year ago and have a bad memory). Should be able to get the tub width down to 3 1/4 to 3 1/2 inches. Will make a big diference, may also make your radio compartment much smaller. I have reciever, throtle and needle servo, and nicad in a front mounted radio box. I have my rudder servo mounted in a seperate box in the middle of the boat.

The speedmaster 20 sized hydo strut and rudder are a good choice.
 
Brian thanks for the input. 1 thing I’m not quite clear on is why would a narrow tub be an advantage in a sport 20 round nose design? I would think that making the engine bay as wide a possible without sacrificing strength would be an advantage for setting up the engine, & radio equipment. It would allow for more room to work. Then holes wouldn't need to be made in the bottom decking to make an engine mount. I do know 3" wide engine mounts are available though. Now, having the radio box up front does make sense to me. I'll see what I can do with that. Would it be wiser to make a rudder servo box in the rear, & the main box up front, like your example? The disadvantage would be fishing a servo lead to the rear of the hull & keeping everything water tight. The disadvantage of mounting the rudder servo up front would be having the control linkage running the length of the hull. If it is front, then there is only 1 compartment that you would need to worry about leaking. What are some opinions on this?
 
wswatzell said:
Brian thanks for the input.  1 thing I’m not quite clear on is why would a narrow tub be an advantage in a sport 20 round nose design?  I would think that making the engine bay as wide a possible without sacrificing strength would be an advantage for setting up the engine, & radio equipment.  It would allow for more room to work.  Then holes wouldn't need to be made in the bottom decking to make an engine mount.  I do know 3" wide engine mounts are available though.  Now, having the radio box up front does make sense to me.  I'll see what I can do with that.  Would it be wiser to make a rudder servo box in the rear, & the main box up front, like your example?  The disadvantage would be fishing a servo lead to the rear of the hull & keeping everything water tight.  The disadvantage of mounting the rudder servo up front would be having the control linkage running the length of the hull.  If it is front, then there is only 1 compartment that you would need to worry about leaking.  What are some opinions on this?
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Picked up the 3 inch stuff from Phils post, if there is no "Tub" as such go with whatever width works best. If you can I would put the rudder servo up front, use a CF pushrod and you should be sorted.

I'd still consider the mount from Mike P he dfoes good work.

Brian
 
I defently agree, Mike P does excelent work! I'll see what I can do with the front radio box.
 
The 4 inch engine well is best. Concider the cmb and other engines with 180 headers you need some room to make things fit.

The front radio box is ok but 8 oz of fuel weighs more than radio setups, If you do the front radio plan on putting the fuel as close to the engine as possible so it wont be tail heavy.

Check out the size of the servos and a 8 oz fuel tank and design the boat to fit.

With the bulkhead frames numbered 1 for the transom 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 forward

Looks like the engine would go between bulkheads 5 &6 radio in 6-7.
 
Phil,

Thanks for reading my mind on the next question, I was going to ask where the best place would be for the engine. Right now, I have the radio box designed for behind the engine. I might just leave it where it is at now, & go with the original design of the fuel cell in front of the engine.
 
Hi Wade,

Glade to see you back on the round nose again, sure is looking good, I'm with Phill on the radio box rear, fuel cell front, keeps things from getting complicated.

As he said most guys will be running motors with 180 degree headers.

Are you still thinking of using the cowl like the old "White Heat" had on it?
 
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