novarossi outboard

[steve palgreene]

I have run my 35 plus 21 about a dozen times. After break in it really came alive. I am running it on an HTB290 with a Lafleur T101 prop,Cooper 70% nitro(6%oil)fuel,D&J carb and a carbon fiber pipe. Heat racing setup is running just over 60mph and handles great. I am going to do some internal mods this winter and see what this combination is capable of.

hey i have the same 35 plus 21 engine and i had nothing but problem with it its out been up to top speed 4 times and i had it for a year in a half it goes but like the speed of a os 21 wipe open i have try to kinds of crb on it acts the same . what would make it not go i got 60% nitro and 18% oil . spr9Email me

Edited version:

Hi, I have the same engine, and have had trouble with it. I have only gotten it to run well about 4 times over the course of 16 months. The engine is not much faster than an OS XM. I have tried numerous carburetors on the engine, with no luck. I run 60% nitro with 18% oil, does anyone have any reccomendations?

Thanks, my email is [email protected]

 

[Mike Culhane]

Wow! Now my brain hurts too!

 

[Kris Flynn]

Hey Steve,

I run an Orlic Carby

You will also want to have the liner lowered (machined) to lower the timings. Aaron at ozspechobbies.com can help you out with both of these things!

Mine goes REALLY well, until the crank breaks LOL

I have a 3rd crank to try which is from an older batch, hopefully it holds up because I am sick of this crap.

BTW my last crank was actually soft I could file it very easy.

Kris

 

[dizzy dean]

he's always the little helper

 

[John Knight]

The Orlic, Speedmaster or the D&J Carbs all work VERY well on a NR, IB or OB. Better than the NR factory carbs. Not sure it the Zoom 21 carb fits the NR but the reviews on it have been outstanding too.

The Orlic bore is the largest, the Speedmaster is slightly smaller and the D&J slightly smaller. At least from the ones I have or know about. Not sure what the bore is for the Zoom 21 carb is. But about .350 bore is about the largest you really want to go on an OB.

 

[Michael Costanzo]

6% oil and it lives? WOW Bob your brave. Where did you get the conversion kit? im looking to do a 5 port

The conversion is from Carl.The reason that I use this fuel is that Brian makes his own oil formula. Less oil means more burnable fuel and that means more power!!!! More oil also causes more heat.

hi bob, is this by chance the fuel from my distibutor in PA? thanks,mike.

 

[TERMINATOR]

The Orlic, Speedmaster or the D&J Carbs all work VERY well on a NR, IB or OB. Better than the NR factory carbs. Not sure it the Zoom 21 carb fits the NR but the reviews on it have been outstanding too.

The Orlic bore is the largest, the Speedmaster is slightly smaller and the D&J slightly smaller. At least from the ones I have or know about. Not sure what the bore is for the Zoom 21 carb is. But about .350 bore is about the largest you really want to go on an OB.

don't know about the others but i had some zoom carbs and they were on my nova rossi motors and my cmb, they are alright carbs but i feel a steve wood modded stock nova carb is the way to go, they are cheaper and run just as good

tk

 

[Luca Gray]

Steve.

i spoke to Aaron from Ozspec hobbies in Australia very nice and helpful guy,

he told me that Kentley Porter made 100mph+ passes with his SAW 21 rigger,

and set sport 21 record using a 35plus 21,

i would get in contact with Aaron at [email protected]

has he would be able to help you help

cheers Luca

 

[aaron alberico]

Steve

i can help you out,

i modded Kris Klynn 35plus 21 outboard and first good run it was easy going 53-54mph on the

gun, and we hav'nt even played with propellers yet,

this motor should be a rocket.

regards Aaron

 

[Michael Costanzo]

hi steve, after you get arron to staighten out the motor, get rid of that 60% with 18% oil.give me a shout and i will set you up with the right fuel. mike.

 

[Tim_Duggan]

Steve,

What pipe and at what length, and what prop is being used? Also what plug?

Tim.

 

[SayMikey]

hi steve, after you get arron to staighten out the motor, get rid of that 60% with 18% oil.give me a shout and i will set you up with the right fuel. mike.

60% and 18% oil isnt that the standard? Clue me in Mike

 

[rumrunner]

Hey Steve,

I run an Orlic Carby

You will also want to have the liner lowered (machined) to lower the timings. Aaron at ozspechobbies.com can help you out with both of these things!

Mine goes REALLY well, until the crank breaks LOL

I have a 3rd crank to try which is from an older batch, hopefully it holds up because I am sick of this crap.

BTW my last crank was actually soft I could file it very easy.

Kris

kris what was the port timing on your 35plus before and after ?

thanks shane

 

[TUNLBOTR]

Hey Steve,

I run an Orlic Carby

You will also want to have the liner lowered (machined) to lower the timings. Aaron at ozspechobbies.com can help you out with both of these things!

Mine goes REALLY well, until the crank breaks LOL

I have a 3rd crank to try which is from an older batch, hopefully it holds up because I am sick of this crap.

BTW my last crank was actually soft I could file it very easy.

Kris

kris what was the port timing on your 35plus before and after ?

thanks shane

The bigger issue is when you machine the liner to lower the timing, the piston ends up going past the bottom of the exhaust port at TDC. And you have to rework all the ports to match the case.

EDIT: It was a bigger motor that this issue came up on. my bad.

 

[SayMikey]

A liner shim wont get the job done?

 

[Jerry Wyss]

Sounds like the deal there is the transfer ports are too high,, say maybe 135*, and

they're turning off some material on the bottom of the sleeve flange to lower those

numbers. But I don't see the idea of "matching the ports to fit the case" again. Seems

like you would end up with the same timings that you had, no?

 

[shoboat]

Terry,

The Zoom-21 carbs work great if you don't try and modify the spraybar.

Those ones I got back from you all need to be redone.

Fellas,

Please do not try and make the spraybar different on Charles Zoom-21

carbs, he does them that way for a reason.

Thanks,

Mark Sholund

 

[LarryConrad]

Hey Steve,

I run an Orlic Carby

You will also want to have the liner lowered (machined) to lower the timings. Aaron at ozspechobbies.com can help you out with both of these things!

Mine goes REALLY well, until the crank breaks LOL

I have a 3rd crank to try which is from an older batch, hopefully it holds up because I am sick of this crap.

BTW my last crank was actually soft I could file it very easy.

Kris

kris what was the port timing on your 35plus before and after ?

thanks shane

The bigger issue is when you machine the liner to lower the timing, the piston ends up going past the bottom of the exhaust port at TDC. And you have to rework all the ports to match the case.

Steve Wood lowered the sleeve on my 35+. My ports line up, and the bottom of the piston does not rise above the bottom of the exhaust port at TDC.

 

[Michael Costanzo]

hi steve, after you get arron to staighten out the motor, get rid of that 60% with 18% oil.give me a shout and i will set you up with the right fuel. mike.

60% and 18% oil isnt that the standard? Clue me in Mike

hey mikie,you do not want to run 18% in any motor.the smaller the motor, the less oil.i run 12% in all motors.the motor will runcooler and you are not trying to hydro lock the motor.i ran red max with 18% oil for alsmost 20 years in my boats and planes. then started

running 11% in my $700+ car motors and never went back.just ask,"tamilito,"dizzy dean' 'big chuck",they all use my fuel and said it was the S**t! let me know if you would like some and you will not go back to your old stuff.12% oil is a synth/castor blend that NO ONE has accsess to. mike.

 

[TERMINATOR]

Terry,

The Zoom-21 carbs work great if you don't try and modify the spraybar.

Those ones I got back from you all need to be redone.

Fellas,

Please do not try and make the spraybar different on Charles Zoom-21

carbs, he does them that way for a reason.

Thanks,

Mark Sholund

mark let me please make one thing clear here, i am not offended in any way , but i ned to make this clear..these carbs you have came from charles the way you got them..well actually i think they are the ones i bought from you when you were selling them.. the only thing changed on them was the fuel inlet directions..so please make sure when they are assembled they are assembled properly. thanks

tk