Speed Secrets

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The best SPEED SECRET I know is a DRY Radio Box. :D

Well.....maybe not the best, but it's a good one. :)
I'm sorry but I would have expected a bit more of a speed secret from Mr Brown than "Don't Flood your Reciever and Servos with Water" :blink: :lol:
I'd rather hear about his method for finding the subjects of the photos that appear in his gallery! ;)

Chuck,

I asked him that very question late last year. His response was "They are all around here in Live Oak (FL)." Guess one of those benefits of living in the sunshine state.
 
Interesting that none of these replies are about mods to motors. I think that is telling. Don is right...

And Mark Anderson would also agree, there is more to be gained from good setup and prop choice than spending that extra $200 getting a modded motor done. Yet some people mod a motor before they even take it out of the box. I don't think that is necessary.

My advice is to go to a race and see what is winning. Then go check out that boat/ hull/ motor/ pipe/ prop combo and see if it is something you can come up with. If you can't beat'em, join'em philosophy.

Brian

PS. I like the graphite epoxy on the bottoms of my sponsons. Then wipe the bottom with RainX between heats.
 
Fellas,

Outrigger set up tip that may be overlooked. When you are trimming out the front sponsons

we typically grind down the front boom mounting block and slot the front and rear boom tube

holes for adjustment. When you adjust the front boom tube it will give you the perfect ride

that you are looking for. Most adjust the rear boom tube only and they forget about the more

important one which is the front boom tube. You need to make things adjustable so you can fine

tune the ride with a "Steve Wood Shim Kit". :D Then try some "Speed Lube" on your driveline.

"Speed Lube" will debut in Toledo at the Hobby Swap Shop, stop on by and pick some up.

Works Well,

Mark Sholund
Mr Sholund,

Is this the same "Speed Lube" that the roller blade guys and skateboarders use?

I didn't even think about using that stuff on my boats.

Thanks

Great info guys.....I like the "dry radio box" speed secret.....
 
Well if there is one "speed secret" that I would single out it would have to be for turn fins as previously mentioned. I can't count how many times I've seen guys who run riggers that use sponson toe in not even think about re-checking their turn fin after they've set the toe & wonder why the boat always pulls. DUH! When you toe in the sponson you've just toed-in the turn fin, you might as well drive holding right rudder 'cause it's doing the same thing! Also applies to mono hulls that use turns fins, they gotta be straight. Mono acting weird after a hard stuff or flip? More times than not the turn fin is knocked out of position. Always, always, always set the turn fin up LAST in the build & be sure it is absolutely dead nut straight! Shim it, bend it , whatever is needed but this is a killer of both speed & handling if it ain't right. ;)
 
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if you get your boat , mono, catt, hydro, stick boat whatever...

strip it and lay all the parts down on a nice big table....

now look at all the things that are there ... and work out what you can do without...

try and remove every last gram of weight thats just not neseccery

down size your fuel tank, exchange thick alloy booms for carbon ones , get smaller battery packs , loose the switch ( it only fails anyway ), swiss cheese all the hardware , shave/swiss all your servo mounts , remove the reciever covers, dispose of all excesss weight ...

and itll run better already ..

so many boats i see built are just so heavy duty , do you really need a 1/2 inch thick timber radio box in your mono ?...? what about those heavy steel pipes used on gassers , carbon pipes are very light even when compared to alloy.

operation weight save would be my little input into this thread.

all you need is a set of scales , a dremmel,drill press, bench grinder and lots of time to add that speed that only comes with weight saving , if you can save enough weight , you may be able to go one or two prop sizes up..

Jason
 
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Some interesting replies so far.

I can't agree enough about attention to detail , that is what not only brings speed but consistancy as well and thats what wins heats.

As for motor mods I personally believe that a well tuned motor can turn an average boat into something special if in the right hands.

I have seen it with just about every boat I have modified an engine for.

An example would be a friend of mine has a K&B SS powerwd 21 tunnel that ran very consistantly in the low forties and after the engine was reworked (using the old piston and sleeve ) he was running in the low fifties in heat race trim without a pipe .

That is a cosiderable increase and the boat was literally untouchable in D-1 wich is a major 21 tunnel district.

So don't over look a well modified engine as long as the rest of your boat is ready for it.

Tim K.
 
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Engine pipe and prop must all work together.

You must find the RPM range where the engine makes power and setup the pipe and prop so it run is that range and can reach it reliably.

props, props, props:

Try every prop you can get your hands on that is in the realistic realm of pitch and diamater for that boat and motor.

adjust the pipe and strut to suit the expected prop load and fine tune it once on the water. Then move to the next prop.

you'll be suprised at what you can gain from that.
 
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Gary Pruesse said: "The amount of water in your radio box is inversely proportional to the enjoyment of r/c boating." or something like that

In other words more water equals less fun :lol:

So a well built radio box is something that should be high on the list.
 
My 2 cents worth would be BALANCE especially with a tunnel but every boat has a sweet spot for balance B) :) Greg
 
It's a wonder that no one has brought up prop indexing yet!

Has anyone tried tapering the drive dog for less friction against the strut?
 
It's a wonder that no one has brought up prop indexing yet!

Has anyone tried tapering the drive dog for less friction against the strut?
I would like to hear some opinions on prop indexing , I always thought that the supposed prop "big bite " should be at a point when the piston is half way down its stroke . Never really tested around this but still do it anyway ! Drive dog shouldn't touch the strut , ever imho !
 

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