Miller American re-build

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Some progress pictures...I ditched the fixed shaft and I'm going with the flex shaft...

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Kevin, is it just me or is that transom bowed? As far as sanding, I know how that goes, sanding the gelcoat off a glass hull to try and lighten it up. Needless to say, I agree with you, SANDING SUCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Here's a picture of my Muck with part of the gelcoat removed
 
I'm glad someone else is having fun sanding. I noticed that the transon was bowed as well. I was thinking of making a new one and replacing it. Also I want to patch the hole for the flex shaft and moving foreward by about 4 inches. This thing is more work that I wanted but it is what it is...
 
My recommendation would be to pull the aft bottom and replace it as well, rather than trying to patch the hole. You already know the original builder's work wasn't the best and since that is one of two areas that are stressed the most(the right sponson transom being the other), I would replace it as well rather than fight around it if you plan to replace the transom
 
"I was thinking of making a new one and replacing it. Also I want to patch the hole for the flex shaft and moving foreward by about 4 inches.".....

Hey Kevin,

I'm sure the hull would welcome some good birch 5 ply to bolt a rudder into. Maybe a transom out of 3/32 five ply, with a couple more pieces laminated between the tub rails. You won't miss that existing Luan ply at all- nor will a new rudder assembly. CHEERS !!! Bob
 
"I was thinking of making a new one and replacing it. Also I want to patch the hole for the flex shaft and moving foreward by about 4 inches.".....

Hey Kevin,

I'm sure the hull would welcome some good birch 5 ply to bolt a rudder into. Maybe a transom out of 3/32 five ply, with a couple more pieces laminated between the tub rails. You won't miss that existing Luan ply at all- nor will a new rudder assembly. CHEERS !!! Bob
This would be a good time to incoporate foam floattion too
 
Dasboatman,

Where would I pick up some of that ply you're talking about. I was thinking of some 1/4 play I have and shaving it down to match the existing thickness. The Hobby shop here only stocks balsa. I have'nt look at Lowes or Ace yet.
 
DO NOT USE HOME STORE PLYWOOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Unlike the more expensive hobby shop plywoods, the home store plywood doesn't get to 5 ply until you get past 1/2". It normally has voids in it as well. As I said, the transom is a high stress area and skimping on the wood in this location is asking for problems. You can order 3/16 and 1/4 ply from several sources and I would recommend doing that. If you lived close to me, I probably have some I could give to you to make a transom. One last thing, cut slots all the way through and cut the framing notches so that the sponson insides and engine bay walls go all the way through. This will increase the strength of the transom by at least 100% at those joints.
 
Hydro,

Thanks for the info. I will look around for some good ply. I live about 2 hours from you if I have to order it online it's no big deal. On to what else you said, if I'm understanding, is to notch the transom and the frame rails so they interlock?
 
I think you will save a lot of time and money if you just do the whole thing over. Sometimes trying to rebuild something, especially in that bad of condition, has its limitations. I know you said you are on a tight budget, but there are a lot of nice laser cut kits out there that will get you off on the right foot with out trying to figure this thing out. I'm assuming that you only have the hull, and your going to have to round up the hardware, engine, radio gear, and all the other things you need to get this thing running. To be honest with you, the price of a new hull is the least of your worries.

My 2 cents

Marty
 
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Kevin, R/C Unlimiteds has a race going on both Saturday and Sunday at Twin Lakes. Would there be any chance of you making it either day? We could meet up and see what you need to do to get that boat on the water. I'm sure there are others in R/C U that would be more than willing to give advice as well.
 
Hammer,

I know what youre saying. I do have all hardware and plenty k&b engines. Just trying to fing a hull to be built at a reasonable price....if possible, lol.

Hydro,

Twin lakes is 330 miles away so i wont be making that. We are running on sunday at sandy shores lake across the hood canal bridge. Would love to go to twins lakes though. Just too far on short notice.
 
Hammer,

I know what youre saying. I do have all hardware and plenty k&b engines. Just trying to fing a hull to be built at a reasonable price....if possible, lol.

Hydro,

Twin lakes is 330 miles away so i wont be making that. We are running on sunday at sandy shores lake across the hood canal bridge. Would love to go to twins lakes though. Just too far on short notice.
I hope it turns out sweet. You must have way more patience than me. I will be watching this thread, so keep posting your progress. Building to me is almost as fun as racing. I really want to see how this turns out. Good Luck!

Marty
 
Lets just say I could convince my wife to let be get another hull...besides dumas who make decent wood hulls?
 
If you have the tools, build from Newton plans and call it good. That way you get to choose the materials and how you want to build it
 
"Dasboatman,

Where would I pick up some of that ply you're talking about. I was thinking of some 1/4 play I have and shaving it down to match the existing thickness. The Hobby shop here only stocks balsa."

Hey Kevin,

Sorry about the delay. I don't spend much time on here and I just read this.

I get ply from National Balsa www.nationalbalsa.com. They sell aircraft grade birch plywood, basswood, hardwoods, epoxy, CA glue and many other supplies we use on model boats. I think HJ has a source out in your area. Have a look at the National Balsa site for ideas. That's why I suggested 3/32" thick birch 5 ply Shaving ply is not an easy job - laminating thinner material is, using epoxy for makimg thicker pieces, and still having the thinner material for other jobs. I usually buy 3/32" 5 ply. 1/16" 3 ply, and 1/32 " 3 ply birch ply all 12" wide X 48" long, some 3/8 and 1/2" square bass wood sticks - all 48" long, Don Smith Slow cure epoxy kits and a small CA glue from them to build with. Keep in mind that I only build boats Wood Over Foam (WOF). Building framed construction is a different critter. Their prices are a whole lot better than buying similar material from your LHS - if they even stock ply. I had done business with Lone Star Balsa www.lonestar-balsa.com for years until they had a fire some years ago. They no longer stock the 12" wide X 48" long ply I use, so I found National Balsa. I have been using them for the last 4 years or so -since my Lone Star stock ran out. Other companies would be: Balsa USA www.balsastore.com, Aircraft Spruce www.aircraftspruce.com prices vary place to place. Quality and price are alway subjective.

Look in the Manufacturer/Distributor For Sale Section of IW, Under 1/8th Laser cut Scale kits for sale. Mike has taken many of Roger Newton plans modified them through Computer Assisted Drafting (CAD) and has kits made up pieces are all laser cut out of aircraft grade spruce - (Pic Attached). He has kits for many different Unlimited Hydroplanes available. Heads and shoulders above the Dumas kits. If you build from Roger's plans, you will have a lot of work ahead of you just to cut out all the pieces. Once that is done and you start assembly, I believe you'll find some "tweaking" will be required to line things up. Mike's laser cut kits have corrected most of the drawing/alignment errors I believe. Mike builds electric 1/8 Scale boats. I am looking forward to someone doing a build thread using one of Mike's kits to build a 1/8 Nitro Scale. It will require some changes to the kit - tailored for nitro engines.

It is my opinion that you would have higher probability of success building one of Mike's kits. Mike has also posted a lot of build threads on here that would be of assistance to you. I have seen too many boaters completely turned away from Scale boating because of some of the junk on the market - Thunderboat Reproductions comes to mind. CHEERS !!! Bob

Posted 10 July 2010 - 12:49 PM

ML Boatworks,

Laser cut Scale Hydroplane framing kits for over 40 different hulls. Offering 1/8th scale as the base scale with other sizes coming as time permits. These kits are based on the Newton drawings with improvements being made to ensure correct fitment of every frame, crossing point, and modifications being made to the ride surface as required. Custom modifications can be made if requested for a small fee. The basis frames make a variety of different boats based on the master hull roster #'s. If you are uncertain of a particular hull, please ask, or view the master hull roster and see if the kit you are needing is one of the hulls I have done. The named hulls below are just a sample to what some of the kits make! Kits do vary in price depending on the complexity, so please ask here, PM, email at [email protected], or call Mike @ (252) 717-6282

NOTICE: STARTING MARCH 24th, 11, I will only be accepting money order, checks or cash. Done with Paypal!

Printable MS Word Document with all kits

Finished Framing sets.doc (77K)
 
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Hammer,

I know what youre saying. I do have all hardware and plenty k&b engines. Just trying to fing a hull to be built at a reasonable price....if possible, lol.

Hydro,

Twin lakes is 330 miles away so i wont be making that. We are running on sunday at sandy shores lake across the hood canal bridge. Would love to go to twins lakes though. Just too far on short notice.
You stick with it that boat can come out nice .
 
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