info on dumas sport40 eagel kit...

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I'm hoping by tonight the bottom will be done for skins...already have the bottom center glued in sat night ...will post progress pic of the build tonight... :) this is fun..... ;)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
My email gets full because of this type of public conversation?

All shes trying to do is build a boat give a person and in fact all of us a break and back out like you always promise but never can do.

I like the topic of boats and boat building. I waste my time reading some of this. I would like to see it be a bit more kind around here. It's okay to speak your mind but man, don't be harsh and don't target people like that.
just got the bottom glued on.. using my small guitar amp and my r/c tool/parts box as weight...and claped the front nose too!!! :D the way this thing is going.. I should have it all skined by mid week!! :D
Nessa, before you glue the decks on, be sure you have everything the way you want it inside those areas....tee nuts for motor mounts, tee nuts for turn fin bracket, any kind of hardware.....and be sure to seal all those compartments really GOOD, because once the decks are on and the epoxy is dry, if you forgot to do something inside those areas, things will get COMPLICATED AND AGGRAVATING! It does sound like yer havin a good time with the build! :)
Ok its been one week to this day in the build.. been working on it any were for 2- 2 1/2 hours or less...just got the last part of the bottom done today.. will try to have the insides done tomarrow,so I can start to put the top skins on it thur or friday..not liking the new setup,every since Tom switch the colors on this site ,can get pics to load wright...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You know where I think spray foam comes in handy is on the front pads.

I made sure the whole bottom of those were covered because it looked like to me the front pads hung down too low and would interfere like everyone has pointed out.

I didn't trim them at the time but the foam is there undernieth the skins if I wanted to re-shape them. I figured it would make it an easier task to shape and re-sheet them.

And how come the tiny pic. Lets see some ply.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You know where I think spray foam comes in handy is on the front pads.

I made sure the whole bottom of those were covered because it looked like to me the front pads hung down too low and would interfere like everyone has pointed out.

I didn't trim them at the time but the foam is there undernieth the skins if I wanted to re-shape them. I figured it would make it an easier task to shape and re-sheet them.

And how come the tiny pic. Lets see some ply.
Wish id done that with mine,as it makes changing stuff easier...i am doing that with my builds now...its a good idea....
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You know where I think spray foam comes in handy is on the front pads.

I made sure the whole bottom of those were covered because it looked like to me the front pads hung down too low and would interfere like everyone has pointed out.

I didn't trim them at the time but the foam is there undernieth the skins if I wanted to re-shape them. I figured it would make it an easier task to shape and re-sheet them.

And how come the tiny pic. Lets see some ply.
Wish id done that with mine,as it makes changing stuff easier...i am doing that with my builds now...its a good idea....
Bill..my boyfriend made a sudjestion about fuel tank lowcation..What about putting it were yours radio gear is at? Thats behind the motor...since the front is up more then the rear.The fuel move backwords..That were your fuel feed is at..and still keep the radio gear at the front nose..Plus what size if fuel tank do you need on a sport40?..10 or 12oz tank..?oh what about doing the sponson runners like the sport20 whip?
 
You know where I think spray foam comes in handy is on the front pads.

I made sure the whole bottom of those were covered because it looked like to me the front pads hung down too low and would interfere like everyone has pointed out.

I didn't trim them at the time but the foam is there undernieth the skins if I wanted to re-shape them. I figured it would make it an easier task to shape and re-sheet them.

And how come the tiny pic. Lets see some ply.
Wish id done that with mine,as it makes changing stuff easier...i am doing that with my builds now...its a good idea....
Bill..my boyfriend made a sudjestion about fuel tank lowcation..What about putting it were yours radio gear is at? Thats behind the motor...since the front is up more then the rear.The fuel move backwords..That were your fuel feed is at..and still keep the radio gear at the front nose..Plus what size if fuel tank do you need on a sport40?..10 or 12oz tank..?oh what about doing the sponson runners like the sport20 whip?
Nessa, thats a really good question about the fuel tank...i really dont know why it wouldnt work as long as its pressurized..ive seen em mounted in the front and on either side of the engine,i just havent seen the fuel tank mounted behind the engine...i hope someone else will chime in on this....Id say you would would need 12 to 16 oz of fuel depending on the engine you use...the sponson bottom design on the whips are GREAT in my opinion...im WAY HAPPY with the way my 20 Whiplash runs, so GO FOR IT GIRL! :) And tell your boyfirend that thats a really good question about fuel tank placement! ;) :)Oh, as per Brian Blazer, i did get rid of the front step altogether on my Whip, but they seem to run good either way
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You know where I think spray foam comes in handy is on the front pads.

I made sure the whole bottom of those were covered because it looked like to me the front pads hung down too low and would interfere like everyone has pointed out.

I didn't trim them at the time but the foam is there undernieth the skins if I wanted to re-shape them. I figured it would make it an easier task to shape and re-sheet them.

And how come the tiny pic. Lets see some ply.
Wish id done that with mine,as it makes changing stuff easier...i am doing that with my builds now...its a good idea....
Bill..my boyfriend made a sudjestion about fuel tank lowcation..What about putting it were yours radio gear is at? Thats behind the motor...since the front is up more then the rear.The fuel move backwords..That were your fuel feed is at..and still keep the radio gear at the front nose..Plus what size if fuel tank do you need on a sport40?..10 or 12oz tank..?oh what about doing the sponson runners like the sport20 whip?
Nessa, thats a really good question about the fuel tank...i really dont know why it wouldnt work as long as its pressurized..ive seen em mounted in the front and on either side of the engine,i just havent seen the fuel tank mounted behind the engine...i hope someone else will chime in on this....Id say you would would need 12 to 16 oz of fuel depending on the engine you use...the sponson bottom design on the whips are GREAT in my opinion...im WAY HAPPY with the way my 20 Whiplash runs, so GO FOR IT GIRL! :) And tell your boyfirend that thats a really good question about fuel tank placement! ;) :)Oh, as per Brian Blazer, i did get rid of the front step altogether on my Whip, but they seem to run good either way
Well bill I'll post pics later tonight.. I'd sat joe's=boyfriend,gas proboat fuel tank in that spot.. Sits nicely..To bad the fuelneck situps up high....Oh joe was wondering if I stuck in those 8oz saddle tanks,but sit them wright sideup.. Instead in what the instruction saying set them on the sides...plus epoxy the line and around the lines and cap at the neck of the fuel tanks for perventing any leaks??...
 
You know where I think spray foam comes in handy is on the front pads.

I made sure the whole bottom of those were covered because it looked like to me the front pads hung down too low and would interfere like everyone has pointed out.

I didn't trim them at the time but the foam is there undernieth the skins if I wanted to re-shape them. I figured it would make it an easier task to shape and re-sheet them.

And how come the tiny pic. Lets see some ply.
Wish id done that with mine,as it makes changing stuff easier...i am doing that with my builds now...its a good idea....
Bill..my boyfriend made a sudjestion about fuel tank lowcation..What about putting it were yours radio gear is at? Thats behind the motor...since the front is up more then the rear.The fuel move backwords..That were your fuel feed is at..and still keep the radio gear at the front nose..Plus what size if fuel tank do you need on a sport40?..10 or 12oz tank..?oh what about doing the sponson runners like the sport20 whip?
Nessa, thats a really good question about the fuel tank...i really dont know why it wouldnt work as long as its pressurized..ive seen em mounted in the front and on either side of the engine,i just havent seen the fuel tank mounted behind the engine...i hope someone else will chime in on this....Id say you would would need 12 to 16 oz of fuel depending on the engine you use...the sponson bottom design on the whips are GREAT in my opinion...im WAY HAPPY with the way my 20 Whiplash runs, so GO FOR IT GIRL! :) And tell your boyfirend that thats a really good question about fuel tank placement! ;) :)Oh, as per Brian Blazer, i did get rid of the front step altogether on my Whip, but they seem to run good either way
Well bill I'll post pics later tonight.. I'd sat joe's=boyfriend,gas proboat fuel tank in that spot.. Sits nicely..To bad the fuelneck situps up high....Oh joe was wondering if I stuck in those 8oz saddle tanks,but sit them wright sideup.. Instead in what the instruction saying set them on the sides...plus epoxy the line and around the lines and cap at the neck of the fuel tanks for perventing any leaks??...
Nessa , as long as the vent tube is to the top and the pick up is on the bottom of the tank, and the top is sealed, i dont see why not..the tank has to be air tight anyway for pressure...dont see why it wouldnt work! :)
 
You know where I think spray foam comes in handy is on the front pads.

I made sure the whole bottom of those were covered because it looked like to me the front pads hung down too low and would interfere like everyone has pointed out.

I didn't trim them at the time but the foam is there undernieth the skins if I wanted to re-shape them. I figured it would make it an easier task to shape and re-sheet them.

And how come the tiny pic. Lets see some ply.
Wish id done that with mine,as it makes changing stuff easier...i am doing that with my builds now...its a good idea....
Bill..my boyfriend made a sudjestion about fuel tank lowcation..What about putting it were yours radio gear is at? Thats behind the motor...since the front is up more then the rear.The fuel move backwords..That were your fuel feed is at..and still keep the radio gear at the front nose..Plus what size if fuel tank do you need on a sport40?..10 or 12oz tank..?oh what about doing the sponson runners like the sport20 whip?
Nessa, thats a really good question about the fuel tank...i really dont know why it wouldnt work as long as its pressurized..ive seen em mounted in the front and on either side of the engine,i just havent seen the fuel tank mounted behind the engine...i hope someone else will chime in on this....Id say you would would need 12 to 16 oz of fuel depending on the engine you use...the sponson bottom design on the whips are GREAT in my opinion...im WAY HAPPY with the way my 20 Whiplash runs, so GO FOR IT GIRL! :) And tell your boyfirend that thats a really good question about fuel tank placement! ;) :)Oh, as per Brian Blazer, i did get rid of the front step altogether on my Whip, but they seem to run good either way
Well bill I'll post pics later tonight.. I'd sat joe's=boyfriend,gas proboat fuel tank in that spot.. Sits nicely..To bad the fuelneck situps up high....Oh joe was wondering if I stuck in those 8oz saddle tanks,but sit them wright sideup.. Instead in what the instruction saying set them on the sides...plus epoxy the line and around the lines and cap at the neck of the fuel tanks for perventing any leaks??...
Nessa , as long as the vent tube is to the top and the pick up is on the bottom of the tank, and the top is sealed, i dont see why not..the tank has to be air tight anyway for pressure...dont see why it wouldnt work! :)
Ok. how many coats of epoxy you guys put on the insides of the hull? I got one on it now...plus has anyone ever had a sullivan fuel tank that ever cracked on them?...Still debaiting on using saddle tanks...Dont liked the idea if they leaked or cracked on you..Then you have to cut out the top decks to do the repair work... :angry:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I personally never had any problems with sullivan tanks. I use a SS-10 on my U-76, however I'm running a k&b sport .40 marine...open side exhaust too!

You could if you wanted to, make removable hatches on the underside of the hull so you wouldnt have to permantally seal your tanks in there, I've seen some guys that have done that.

Personally I would just use the sullivan tank up front since it is heavier than the radio gear I would think you would want that up in front of the engine, not behind, remember, that tank when full is gonna weigh 10 ounces..

As far as sealing the inside, I mix up a 50/50 batch of 30min epoxy w/91% rubbing alcohol and brush on several coats, just enough to get a shine. I'm sure theres different ways to do this, but in the center of the hull where you mount your engine/radio/tank etc, I'd do the same except brush on more coats until its smooth to make for easier cleanup....

The alcohol allows the thinned epoxy to soak into the wood, and it evaporates leaving behind the epoxy. This ensures that the wood is sealed good and I believe this method is the lightest way to do it...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You know where I think spray foam comes in handy is on the front pads.

I made sure the whole bottom of those were covered because it looked like to me the front pads hung down too low and would interfere like everyone has pointed out.

I didn't trim them at the time but the foam is there undernieth the skins if I wanted to re-shape them. I figured it would make it an easier task to shape and re-sheet them.

And how come the tiny pic. Lets see some ply.
Wish id done that with mine,as it makes changing stuff easier...i am doing that with my builds now...its a good idea....
Bill..my boyfriend made a sudjestion about fuel tank lowcation..What about putting it were yours radio gear is at? Thats behind the motor...since the front is up more then the rear.The fuel move backwords..That were your fuel feed is at..and still keep the radio gear at the front nose..Plus what size if fuel tank do you need on a sport40?..10 or 12oz tank..?oh what about doing the sponson runners like the sport20 whip?
Nessa, thats a really good question about the fuel tank...i really dont know why it wouldnt work as long as its pressurized..ive seen em mounted in the front and on either side of the engine,i just havent seen the fuel tank mounted behind the engine...i hope someone else will chime in on this....Id say you would would need 12 to 16 oz of fuel depending on the engine you use...the sponson bottom design on the whips are GREAT in my opinion...im WAY HAPPY with the way my 20 Whiplash runs, so GO FOR IT GIRL! :) And tell your boyfirend that thats a really good question about fuel tank placement! ;) :)Oh, as per Brian Blazer, i did get rid of the front step altogether on my Whip, but they seem to run good either way
Well bill I'll post pics later tonight.. I'd sat joe's=boyfriend,gas proboat fuel tank in that spot.. Sits nicely..To bad the fuelneck situps up high....Oh joe was wondering if I stuck in those 8oz saddle tanks,but sit them wright sideup.. Instead in what the instruction saying set them on the sides...plus epoxy the line and around the lines and cap at the neck of the fuel tanks for perventing any leaks??...
Nessa , as long as the vent tube is to the top and the pick up is on the bottom of the tank, and the top is sealed, i dont see why not..the tank has to be air tight anyway for pressure...dont see why it wouldnt work! :)
Ok. how many coats of epoxy you guys put on the insides of the hull? I got one on it now...plus has anyone ever had a sullivan fuel tank that ever cracked on them?...Still debaiting on using saddle tanks...Dont liked the idea if they leaked or cracked on you..Then you have to cut out the top decks to do the repair work... :angry:
I personally never had any problems with sullivan tanks. I use a SS-10 on my U-76, however I'm running a k&b sport .40 marine...open side exhaust too!

You could if you wanted to, make removable hatches on the underside of the hull so you wouldnt have to permantally seal your tanks in there, I've seen some guys that have done that.

Personally I would just use the sullivan tank up front since it is heavier than the radio gear I would think you would want that up in front of the engine, not behind, remember, that tank when full is gonna weigh 10 ounces..
I was thinking about the samething..maybe making hatches on the top hull deck...The prouble having the fuel tank up front is sudden weight changes..You would need alittle bit of weight up front so to keep the hydro from blowing over on you...Its heavy at the time you race but when the fuel gets used up your lighting to nose weight up=a possible blow over....At least if it was behind the motor fuel get less and lightens the mid section of the boat,would be a possible plus..This based on my thinking on weight transfur...hydro's get fliety as is on the front ends..And I know you dont want the front end to nose heavy eighter.....I would like to get more info/thinking from you other guys too..
 
Last edited by a moderator:
i built one hatch on each side on the underside so you can work on the tanks if necessary. tape the lid on with radio box tape. rt side tank feeds the left tank , left tank feeds the carb . rt tank gets the pressure fitting. use large pressure line from the pipe to the rt tank. run a 1 or 2 oz hopper tank by the carb from the left tank.(3 tanks) the reason for the hatch lids is if a fuel pickup breaks in a tank, you can at least get to it and work on it without destroying boat/paint job. vibration can cause pickups to break.(experience)tells me this.hopper tank keeps the engine fed when the main tanks may suck air while running.
 
Nessa, before you put the decks on, be sure that there are no twists in the hull and the boat is square...once the decks are put on and the glue sets, the hull is basically "locked in" and it gets pretty hard to straighten anything out after the fact.....
 
I personally never had any problems with sullivan tanks. I use a SS-10 on my U-76, however I'm running a k&b sport .40 marine...open side exhaust too!

You could if you wanted to, make removable hatches on the underside of the hull so you wouldnt have to permantally seal your tanks in there, I've seen some guys that have done that.

Personally I would just use the sullivan tank up front since it is heavier than the radio gear I would think you would want that up in front of the engine, not behind, remember, that tank when full is gonna weigh 10 ounces..

As far as sealing the inside, I mix up a 50/50 batch of 30min epoxy w/91% rubbing alcohol and brush on several coats, just enough to get a shine. I'm sure theres different ways to do this, but in the center of the hull where you mount your engine/radio/tank etc, I'd do the same except brush on more coats until its smooth to make for easier cleanup....

The alcohol allows the thinned epoxy to soak into the wood, and it evaporates leaving behind the epoxy. This ensures that the wood is sealed good and I believe this method is the lightest way to do it...
I'm using the aeromaine to brush in the insides of the hull..It really soaks in the wood,no need to thin that stuff its thin enough as is, been brushing thin coats as is too.....It's a 2-1 mix ratio....As it looks I have to give it a second coat and hope that it..Bill I did two flat area test..no twist in the hull so far and its pritty squared up too..
 
Last edited by a moderator:
forgot..any of you put the rudder in that same locion on the instructions? or did you move your rudder alittle bit more to the left side..?plus dont like there water out let location eigher,out the sponson side.. been used to the proboats location out the side..
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The fuel tank size depends on the motor and nitro % (higher nitro>>>>richer needle>>>more fuel burned). If you run a MAC 45 on 60% fuel, 12 oz will run out on lap 4........ LOL. Seriously 15 oz is what I run in my MAC45 powered hulls. I also start at 1:30 on the clock.

The anks are best if put exactly on the CG so it does not change with fuel burn, hence the saddle tanks on either side of the motor.
 
The fuel tank size depends on the motor and nitro % (higher nitro>>>>richer needle>>>more fuel burned). If you run a MAC 45 on 60% fuel, 12 oz will run out on lap 4........ LOL. Seriously 15 oz is what I run in my MAC45 powered hulls. I also start at 1:30 on the clock.

The anks are best if put exactly on the CG so it does not change with fuel burn, hence the saddle tanks on either side of the motor.


I run a Mac 45 in my PT sport 40, 14 oz tank.....MAN! Its CLOSE! Wouldnt mind having another ounce or two! Need to stick a hopper tank in it if i could find a place to put it!Same deal on the start time...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The fuel tank size depends on the motor and nitro % (higher nitro>>>>richer needle>>>more fuel burned). If you run a MAC 45 on 60% fuel, 12 oz will run out on lap 4........ LOL. Seriously 15 oz is what I run in my MAC45 powered hulls. I also start at 1:30 on the clock.

The anks are best if put exactly on the CG so it does not change with fuel burn, hence the saddle tanks on either side of the motor.


I run a Mac 45 in my PT sport 40, 14 oz tank.....MAN! Its CLOSE! Wouldnt mind having another ounce or two! Need to stick a hopper tank in it if i could find a place to put it!Same deal on the start time...
man having a hard time loading pics tonight...wont loadup for me...well I'd knocked the front helper runner down,it about 1/8 tall thats with 1/16 ply on it,from the main sponson runners....Plus I'd knock out the floor where the drain pan set at too..now I wont have to worry about fly wheel or belt being to close to the floor anymore..No going to skin it this weekend.. just going to finish the insides and make those hatches,if I run those saddle tanks setup......
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Misshydro, why didn't you tell Bill why you wanted the boat kit? Do you recognise this from your own website thread?

Ok guys I'm building a dumas sport40 wood hydro kit...I'm doning this to prove some guys wrong,that I can build wooden boats...Its about close to half way built...its been about a week into

Seems to me that you took the kit on false pretences, as it was offered in a gift exchange thread, not a free "one-up" one. I think this is another good example of why others should let you build this kit WITHOUT HELP
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Back
Top