Blazer Marine Slingshot Build!

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Alright, I'm too impatient to hold on to these images for any longer!
As much as I'm enjoying learning how to build a boat from a kit, I didnt want my first attempt at a paint/clear job to be on this boat.
I enlisted the help of Joe Peters to get everything that came next correct, as Joe is even more of a perfectionist than I am.
Love ya, buddy! Thanks for everything!!

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I was way too excited to have this thing back yesterday after Joe's clear treatment,
I stayed up til 7am piecing parts of it back together
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Still a lot to get done before spring. The checklist includes sizing a new flex shaft, fitting throttle servo mount, making boom collars, 3D printing boom stays, making a stand, etc. A lot of what is pictured is currently mocked up.
On track for a spring launch, hoping our club can host another annual fun run this season. Hoping some of you guys can join when I put it overboard for the first time!
Almost there, thanks for following, bros!
 
Another late night putting the work in.
Thanks again to Mike Ball for this 3D printed servo mount. Certainly helps to clean up this radio box and engine bay.
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Found a rubber grommet in my parts bin that's perfect for sealing the opening intended for a push rod, that now houses a flex cable. Clean is the name of the game!
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(Those of you who know me well enough to have seen my drift car will know how important a clean inside/engine bay is to me! 😉)
 
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Very small detail added today:
Last year I had drilled the transom in preparation to run my water line through, however I decided not to utilize this method when one of my other outriggers with the same set up shredded the cooling line when it dropped into the prop... so we're going a different direction!
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We're going through the bait box lid instead. Finding just the right grommet was a challenge. Managed to source one that wouldn't pinch the water line but kept a snug seal.
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7/16" outer diameter hole
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Keep it clean!!
The hole and grommet are placed so as to not infringe on the radio box tape.
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Mario,

I've never, ever, seen anybody lose a cooling line that way. I suppose if you blew it off the nipple on the rudder blade, it could find its way down there....

I cut an angle at the top of my strut brackets, drilled a hole in the top-rear corner of the strut blade and ran the water line through it. Nice and tidy and I still don't have to deal with it every time I want to remove my baitbox lid (Not that that happens often).

Many ways to get there.

Thanks. Brad.
Titan Racing Components
BlackJack Hydros
Model Machine and Precision LLC
 
Brad, I think I may have shredded it on launch throwing the boat in. It was routed sort of over/behind the strut, just like the top image.

I came up with a bunch of ideas to accomplish it after the fact, but unfortunately they were too late for my current transom configuration.
All noted for the next build... because of course there will be a next build!!
 
I shreaded one that way when the boat bounced. THe back end slap it down into the prop and sliced it up. i still run them the same direction . I just put a zip to the strut now if it is really loose enough to get to the prop.
Mike
 
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With my other boat it happened to, I had more room to route the line through the slot at the top of the strut to the other side of the transom (tip I got from the man, Stu Barr himself!)
Sort of back to the drawing board after experiencing that little hiccup
 
Mario,

Yup. That's how I have it on my Crapshooter, after seeing it on Stu's boats. But, on my BlackJack, I didn't have the extra length on the rudder blade, and had already slanted the back of the brackets for weight reduction, so I added a hole to the strut blade. It was a relatively easy fix, after a "well, DUH" moment....

Thanks. Brad.
Titan Racing Components
BlackJack Hydros
Model Machine and Precision LLC
 
Fisheye remover mixed into the clearcoat = no more fisheye problem.
Hey mike, A cap full of Sikkens anti-silicone was added to the first coat of clear. He took the boat everywhere with him. theres no telling what were on the hands of the people handling it or what was in the room when the exoxy was brushed on. Silicone presence in the air is our worst enemy.Normally fish eye eliminator or anti-silicone works.......most of the time.
Didnt really matter anyway.The first clear session was sanded down before the 2nd application was put on to keep things light as possible and to remove any remaining grain in the surface. since the 1st coat sealed the gremlins the second application went much better.
 
Hey, man! I had to take it to you and the Hammons boys to be sure I was doing it right!!
Turned out absolutely gorgeous though, Joe. You know I appreciate the hard work
 
I always add fisheye eliminator. Your paint job turned out beautiful. Almost turned out too nice. Hard to drop that one in tbe pond.
 
Big Thanks to Dave Roach for these killer delrin boom tube collars.
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Another item knocked off the ol' check list
 
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