Blazer Marine Slingshot Build!

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Brad Christy

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Jun 24, 2002
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1,218
Mario,

Another "pro" tip....

Put more of a taper on your drive dog. Taper that thing all the way back to the prop face. Install them permanently, with SHCSs, cut the screw off with a hacksaw/bandsaw, then turn the dog true and taper it on a lathe. You won't be sorry.

Thanks. Brad.
Titan Racing Components
BlackJack Hydros
Model Machine and Precision LLC.
 

Mario Johnston

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Joined
May 23, 2019
Messages
256
Dang! That's wild! You've piqued my interest on that one, Brad. Looking into it. Much thanks!
 

Brad Christy

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Joined
Jun 24, 2002
Messages
1,218
Dang! That's wild! You've piqued my interest on that one, Brad. Looking into it. Much thanks!
Mario, Leighton,

No pics necessary. Here's the process....

Hopefully you have some machinery at your disposal. With an appropriate cutting tool (I use a ball nose end mill, but I realize that many don't have all the toys), and with the stub shaft in a vise, create a small divot in the shaft. Some figuring will need done to determine the right spot. Then round the end of a SHCS that fits the tapped hole in the drive dog to "match" that of the divot. With permanent Loc-Tite, install the drive dog onto the stub shaft, thread the screw into it and cram it into the divot. Stop a bit short of cracking the dog (;)). Give the Loc-Tite time to fully set. Cut the screw off. Chuck the stub shaft in a lathe, turn the dog true and taper the leading end. As I said, taper the dog with as shallow an angle as needed to get the leading face tucked in behind the strut and not cut into the drive tabs. Ten degrees, or thereabouts, should be enough, I'd think. The one thing you DON'T want is a surface that causes any more drag than absolutely necessary. You'd be surprised at how much that 45 deg you've got on there will catch of the oncoming water.

Thanks. Brad.
Titan Racing Components
BlackJack Hydros
Model Machine and Precision LLC.
 

Mario Johnston

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Joined
May 23, 2019
Messages
256
THATS A WRAP, YALL.
Just under one year after starting this thread, my very first kit boat build is complete!!!
All bolts are tight, all running surfaces smooth and sharp.
20210226_102712.jpg
20210226_102737.jpg
Waiting for the weather to warm up and the ice to melt before we throw it overboard. Will definitely post testing videos.

Massive Thanks go out especially to:
Brian Blazer
Bob Blazer
Troy Hammons
TJ Hammons
Joe Peters
Mike Ball
Brad Maglinger
Mark Scott
And of course every one of you who helped me here and offered words of advice and encouragement. Feeling much more confident in potential future builds now that this is done.
Thanks, boys!!
 
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Brad Christy

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Joined
Jun 24, 2002
Messages
1,218
Mario,

Patience, persistence and diligence.

Building is not that difficult if you exercise these traits. It also helps to have some good advice, so you don't have to learn from your own mistakes. ;)

Thanks. Brad.
Titan Racing Components
BlackJack Hdyros
Model Machine and Precision LLC
 

RichJones

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2016
Messages
60
THATS A WRAP, YALL.
Just under one year after starting this thread, my very first kit boat build is complete!!!
All bolts are tight, all running surfaces smooth and sharp.
View attachment 288900
View attachment 288901
Waiting for the weather to warm up and the ice to melt before we throw it overboard. Will definitely post testing videos.

Massive Thanks go out especially to:
Brian Blazer
Bob Blazer
Troy Hammons
TJ Hammons
Joe Peters
Mike Ball
Brad Maglinger
Mark Scott
And of course every one of you who helped me here and offered words of advice and encouragement. Feeling much more confident in potential future builds now that this is done.
Thanks, boys!!
That is a work of art Mario, congrats on finishing it! Great job on keeping that outer ply intact. On my Backlash, I had high hopes of keeping it natural wood on the hull with maybe a couple vinyl graphics but I sanded through on the outside of the sponson on one side up by the tip where several surfaces converge. I’ll need to incorporate a little color to cover it up thus it will only be a partially natural finish. Can’t wait to see that thing run, there’s no way it’s not going to fly!

Rich
 

Wasted wages

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Joined
Jan 2, 2006
Messages
460
Awesome build Mario, that thing is TIGHT !!!
Make sure you do a range check on your radio gear before handing it over to the pond gods...they can be a vengeful bunch at times... Maybe throw a sacrificial spark plug or two in the pond to appease them before the first launch!! 👍


I have a zippkits SS mono I'm prepping that I would love to laminate the deck with some mahogany, cherry or something to keep it all natural... or just add a splash of color around the edges.
We will see where it goes!
 

Mario Johnston

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 23, 2019
Messages
256
That is a work of art Mario, congrats on finishing it! Great job on keeping that outer ply intact. On my Backlash, I had high hopes of keeping it natural wood on the hull with maybe a couple vinyl graphics but I sanded through on the outside of the sponson on one side up by the tip where several surfaces converge. I’ll need to incorporate a little color to cover it up thus it will only be a partially natural finish. Can’t wait to see that thing run, there’s no way it’s not going to fly!

Rich
Thanks, Rich!!
Honestly, this build didn't go without a few spots where I sanded through as well. At first I panicked but Bob Blazer assured me that even the best builders often have little hiccups like this along the way. I learned to be perfectly OK with my slip ups, gives the boat character! Minor imperfections make it feel more 'handmade' and I dig that!
IMG_20210227_045115.jpg
 

RichJones

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Joined
Jan 6, 2016
Messages
60
Thanks, Rich!!
Honestly, this build didn't go without a few spots where I sanded through as well. At first I panicked but Bob Blazer assured me that even the best builders often have little hiccups like this along the way. I learned to be perfectly OK with my slip ups, gives the boat character! Minor imperfections make it feel more 'handmade' and I dig that!
View attachment 288935
Yeah those are tough spots man. My girlfriend has a 64 Rolls Royce and we had the dash apart refinishing the wood which has a thin burl veneer and man was that stuff easy to sand through in spots. Thanks for sharing that it still is a minty looking boat!
 

Wasted wages

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Joined
Jan 2, 2006
Messages
460
The dark outline of the glue joints show the craftsmanship of the build... don't see much filler on that boat!! I admire anyone that has the patience and skill to make the alignment of the panels so good and tight.

That's why my builds get painted.... 🤪
No patience!!! Thank God for microballoons!
 

Mario Johnston

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Joined
May 23, 2019
Messages
256
Every boat needs a decent stand, so the VERY very last step is putting together this neat universal joint from ML BoatWorks.
The rear upright is the perfect width for the tub section between the rear sponsons.
20210226_102228.jpg
Sanding off the laser burns. Can you guess which side is sanded? 😅
20210226_111745.jpg
20210226_112820.jpg
Waterproof wood glue is fine for this part
20210226_120343.jpg
Then time to seal with West
20210228_165034.jpg
 

Mario Johnston

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Joined
May 23, 2019
Messages
256
Decided this Cherry dowel would match the boat's nose blocks better. I like the idea of the boat and stand looking identical to some degree
20210304_003855.jpg
NOTE: YES, I will be adding adhesive backed foam to rear upright that supports tub once the stand is clear coated!
But how great is this fit up under here!?!?
20210303_233229.jpg
This is a good look. Time for Clear!
20210304_105643.jpg
 

Brad Christy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2002
Messages
1,218
Mario,

Another pro tip...

Instead of the adhesive backed foam (which will inevitably detach), using wax paper as a barrier, apply clear silicone to the contact points (under the tub and under the boom tubes, and lay the boat in place. After the impression is complete, remove the boat and allow the silicone to cure. I'd also put some dots on either side of the rear vertical to keep the inside surfaces of the rears from making contact. You can also put some on the bottom of the stand and do an impression on a suitable flat surface to make the stand a bit more skid-proof. Do not remove the wax paper until the silicone has fully cured.

BTW... The cherry is a nice touch that "personalizes" the stand to the boat. Sweet.

Thanks. Brad.
Titan Racing Components
BlackJack Hydros
Model Machine and Precision LLC
 
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