Zippkit JAE 12G Booms

[Jim Mamaril]

I have started to build my JAE 12G rigger kit from Zippkits and when I got to the point where you glue in the engine rails and and front boom doublers I couldn't get the booms level or square to each other.After removing and reinserting them I noticed that my measurements changed alot,so I took the booms and rolled them on a piece of granite that I use for a flat surface to build on and they are so crooked there is no way to get things anywhere near level and square.They are at least 1/4 to 3/8 out.Has anyone else ran into this problem? I guess I will have to go with some aluminum tube or ?? Maybe arrow blanks ??

Another thing I was thinking about was replacing the hardwood dowls with threaded aluminum inserts,has anyone tried it yet??

Anyway just wondering if anyone has had this issue.

Jim

 

[Russ Nachtweih]

Hi Jim,

Mine were straight! I am glad to see that you got one of these, the next new class in District 8.

Russ

 

[Jim Mamaril]

Hi Jim,

Mine were straight! I am glad to see that you got one of these, the next new class in District 8.

Russ

Hey Russ, I believe this is going to be one fun class next year so I decided to jump on the band wagon. I am hoping some others in D8 decide to run B mod as well, I got mine running really well on my Leecraft.

 

[Doug Smock]

Jim,

Contact Joe at Zippkits, he'll take care of you!

Doug

 

[opio]

better have it built for dec 7 cause there will be bunch there!

 

[Rick Sowell]

Jeremy: are you going to actually come and RUN A BOAT! you better be ready I will have mine done by then also.

 

[Geraghty]

I have started to build my JAE 12G rigger kit from Zippkits and when I got to the point where you glue in the engine rails and and front boom doublers I couldn't get the booms level or square to each other.After removing and reinserting them I noticed that my measurements changed alot,so I took the booms and rolled them on a piece of granite that I use for a flat surface to build on and they are so crooked there is no way to get things anywhere near level and square.They are at least 1/4 to 3/8 out.Has anyone else ran into this problem? I guess I will have to go with some aluminum tube or ?? Maybe arrow blanks ??

Another thing I was thinking about was replacing the hardwood dowls with threaded aluminum inserts,has anyone tried it yet??

Anyway just wondering if anyone has had this issue.

Jim

Guys,

Something you might want to consider......I personally [being from district 8] know the way you guys are going to torture your JAE.12G's you have when you race them next year.... ....and I definitely would not go to a race without an extra set of boom tubes....

You may want to upgrade your boom tubes to a set of 1/4" solid carbon fiber rods from Aerospace composites......the fiberglass boom tubes are fine as long as you don't have an encounter with something hard like a buoy,another boat or a [5] pound "quack quack" at Waughop..

The solid 1/4" carbon fiber rods are tougher than hell and will survive some pretty hard licks.

Just a thought........you choose... B)

All the boats I build have 4-40 or 6-32 threaded inserts in the doweling for turn-fin attachment.I buy them 50 at a pop on ebay......

The sheet metal screws that come with the fins work very well but I just personally like the look of the inserts.I think I would use the screws that come with the kit and then,if needed at a later date ,insert the threaded inserts....that would be very easy to do.

 

[Jim Caldwell]

Carbon rods and tubes are available here at much better pricing, I have been buying from them for quite some time.

http://www.goodwinds.com/merch/list.shtml?cat=carbon.solidroundcarbon

 

[Joe Petro]

Remember that we are talking about a $39 kit!

It would be no problem to use carbon rods or tubes, threaded inserts and all, but it wouldn't be a $39 kit any longer.

The solid fiberglass and 3/4 inch sheet metal screws work as designed.

You can certainly upgrade any part of the kit, that's what this hobby is all about- Doing things your way.

We are considering offering 1/4 inch carbon tubes and threaded inserts as options, but will not include them in the basic kit.

We feel that most modelers would rather have an inexpensive kit from the start, even if they add to it.

That said, wait till you see what $79 brings you in the 21 kit...

Joe

P.S. Jim, we are sending a replacement set of tubes to you today...

 

[SayMikey]

Remember that we are talking about a $39 kit!

It would be no problem to use carbon rods or tubes, threaded inserts and all, but it wouldn't be a $39 kit any longer.

The solid fiberglass and 3/4 inch sheet metal screws work as designed.

You can certainly upgrade any part of the kit, that's what this hobby is all about- Doing things your way.

We are considering offering 1/4 inch carbon tubes and threaded inserts as options, but will not include them in the basic kit.

We feel that most modelers would rather have an inexpensive kit from the start, even if they add to it.

That said, wait till you see what $79 brings you in the 21 kit...

Joe

P.S. Jim, we are sending a replacement set of tubes to you today...

Great job Joe,we got our Nova yesterday CANT wait for the 21............ Keep up the good work Mike

 

[Jim Caldwell]

I agree Joe, but for upgrading you can't beat carbon fiber.

 

[griz2575]

Remember that we are talking about a $39 kit!

It would be no problem to use carbon rods or tubes, threaded inserts and all, but it wouldn't be a $39 kit any longer.

The solid fiberglass and 3/4 inch sheet metal screws work as designed.

You can certainly upgrade any part of the kit, that's what this hobby is all about- Doing things your way.

We are considering offering 1/4 inch carbon tubes and threaded inserts as options, but will not include them in the basic kit.

We feel that most modelers would rather have an inexpensive kit from the start, even if they add to it.

That said, wait till you see what $79 brings you in the 21 kit...

Joe

P.S. Jim, we are sending a replacement set of tubes to you today...

Joe,

How do I get on the list for the 21?

 

[Jim Mamaril]

Remember that we are talking about a $39 kit!

It would be no problem to use carbon rods or tubes, threaded inserts and all, but it wouldn't be a $39 kit any longer.

The solid fiberglass and 3/4 inch sheet metal screws work as designed.

You can certainly upgrade any part of the kit, that's what this hobby is all about- Doing things your way.

We are considering offering 1/4 inch carbon tubes and threaded inserts as options, but will not include them in the basic kit.

We feel that most modelers would rather have an inexpensive kit from the start, even if they add to it.

That said, wait till you see what $79 brings you in the 21 kit...

Joe

P.S. Jim, we are sending a replacement set of tubes to you today...

Joe, I hope you didn't think I was bad mouthing you I was just trying to see if any one else ran into this issue and how they handled it.I appreciate you sending another set but I was not worried about it because as you said it is a 39.00 kit. As it has been said here on this forum modifying and thinking up new and different ways to do the same things is what it is all about.

Rod, I see you have experienced racing with us up here in the NW. I believe we met at the 94 Nats at waughop and talked about engine mods for awhile. I really appreciate all that you have done for the sport and especially this new little rigger. I have been working on a project with a mutual freind of ours and I would really like to get your input on a few things if you have the time. I am at work now but will check this post this evening.

Thanks to everyone,Jim

 

[Geraghty]

Carbon rods and tubes are available here at much better pricing, I have been buying from them for quite some time.

http://www.goodwinds.com/merch/list.shtml?cat=carbon.solidroundcarbon

Jim,

I took a look at your link and I have a couple of questions about your experience with these rods.

Are these carbon "fiber" rods????......the solid carbon we have used rods actually have less strength than the fiberglass rods

included in the kits.

The solid carbon rods we have had experience with just shatter when put under very little stress....

How do these rods do under stress???

Thanks,

Rod Geraghty

 

[opio]

boy oh boy jim we got called out on our lake and roughness there lol!

 

[Jim Mamaril]

boy oh boy jim we got called out on our lake and roughness there lol!

I guess we will see what happens

 

[Jim Caldwell]

Yes, carbon will shatter and fiberglass will bend some before it breaks. But carbon is about 10 times stiffer as a material and tubes are stiffer than rods in the same size.

Protruded carbon rod or tubes (all the fibers runs length of rod)is very stiff but has little hoop strength as in bending.

So if you hit a bouy at 65 to 70 it will break depending on the size. 3/8" rod may or may not break depending on boat weight.

Example; at this years internats, I ran my molded SAW test mule in Open Hydro on sponson TUBES of 8mm inner protruded, .032wall and 12.5mm WRAPPED outer tube, .032 wall.

Boat weighed 12 lbs ready to go, HEAVY layup for 120+ survivability. Hit a bouy in the second heat and broke the front tubes inside the sponson sleeve tube. Could not figure why it was handling so bad in the third heat! LOL. but it saves the tub and sponsons just replace the rod and make the next heat. Yes I sleeve my tubs and sponsons.

When my JAE 21 FE kit arrives I will try the stock fiberglass rods then replace them with carbon rods and let you the difference. In my riggers the carbon makes for crisp consistent handling.

I agree with your decision to supply fiberglass rods with the kits for survivability!

 

[Geraghty]

Yes, carbon will shatter and fiberglass will bend some before it breaks. But carbon is about 10 times stiffer as a material and tubes are stiffer than rods in the same size.

Protruded carbon rod or tubes (all the fibers runs length of rod)is very stiff but has little hoop strength as in bending.

So if you hit a bouy at 65 to 70 it will break depending on the size. 3/8" rod may or may not break depending on boat weight.

Example; at this years internats, I ran my molded SAW test mule in Open Hydro on sponson TUBES of 8mm inner protruded, .032wall and 12.5mm WRAPPED outer tube, .032 wall.

Boat weighed 12 lbs ready to go, HEAVY layup for 120+ survivability. Hit a bouy in the second heat and broke the front tubes inside the sponson sleeve tube. Could not figure why it was handling so bad in the third heat! LOL. but it saves the tub and sponsons just replace the rod and make the next heat. Yes I sleeve my tubs and sponsons.

When my JAE 21 FE kit arrives I will try the stock fiberglass rods then replace them with carbon rods and let you the difference. In my riggers the carbon makes for crisp consistent handling.

I agree with your decision to supply fiberglass rods with the kits for survivability!

I think I didn't make it clear....I was just responding to your post with the link to the carbon rods and what experience we have had with them...

The JAE.21G2 boat by Zippkits [if I am not mistaken] is going to come with carbon fiber rods.The JAE.12G comes with the fiberglass rods.

 

[raptor347]

Rod,

The carbon rods that Goodwinds sells is long fiber pulltruded material. I've been using it for years in my FE SAW boats. The 1/4" material has survived crashes over 80mph on 3.5 lb boat.

 

[Geraghty]

Rod,

The carbon rods that Goodwinds sells is long fiber pulltruded material. I've been using it for years in my FE SAW boats. The 1/4" material has survived crashes over 80mph on 3.5 lb boat.

Thank you .....that is good to know.....from their description it was up in the air as to what they offered.....

I was just trying to pass on some info that I learned the hard way.....