WOF Buildup process

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Marty,

I plan on leaving those pics up on the site.. Can't say when I plan, if they ever do, come off.. You can always save the page on your hard drive if need be..
 
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Micro balloons are hollow spheres of glass and silica,actually collodial silica, is much denser, heavier solid glass powder and makes for a better bonding mixture. While micro balloons are better as a filler for fillets, filling in low spots in a glas hull, and adding to epoxy while waterproofing wood.

Doug
 
:D thanks for leaving this site on

few more questions though

how much weight at CG compared to the front of sponsons

villains was like 2oz in each tip

2830 plans for same

how did you come up with it at CG an why

eager grasshopper Marty

any one else don't be afraid jump in water is still soft cold though
 
When adding weight, how much and where, all depends on the intended use of boat along with the nut behind the wheel :p . On my first 29", there was no weight added. However, the spoon bottoms were done incorrectly. It did not like any wakes. My second 29", the one I race now, had 2.5 oz added to the inside of the tips. Boat runs great on smooth water. Have not yet had a chance to run on rough water though. When I posted this some time back, others chim'd in to have the weight at CG vs the tips. Weight added in front acts differently, think of a pendulum effect. The boat with the most weight added will be run in rough water conditions. The extra weight adds stability of the boat in this type of water.

As for CG location. Each tunnel is different. It has been posted that the general CG area is anywhere from 27% to 33% of spoon length. I took this into account and just used 30% as it's in the middle of the two.
 
Thanks doug for the clairifcion where do you get this silica stuff at and by what name

Marty
Marty,

CST Sales is where I pick up my West System epoxy and other goodies. West Systems Colloidal Silica is what I add to the epoxy mixture. The 5.5 oz can will LAST for some time..
 
Wow, a lot of work goin' on there.

In case you haven't come across them at Lowe's, the Surform actually comes in several styles, the short "finish" plane style like in Mark's pix, a longer "bench" plane style that has about 8" of cutters, a round "rasp" and a curved "rasp" style. The latter two are great for shaping inside curves. All but the round rasp style have replaceable blades for when they get too dull, or rust. You can mount the blades either end to, so you can work on the "push" stroke, like a plane, or on the "pull" stroke, sort of like a drawshave.(ever used one of those?) On some materials, it is a lot easier and more controlled to work on the pull stroke. You have better control how much the teeth dig in.

Also, there may be a difference in the density of blue foam compared to pink, but I don't have any hard evidence on that. It would take some careful weighing on a sensitive scale to detect the difference. Probably wouldn't make much of a difference in volumes under a couple cubic feet.

Just my 2 cents.

Fred
 
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The blue foam is denser than the pink stuff, thusly heavier as well. There is a very good how-to and general info on the West Systems Epoxy web-site, very good descriptions and usage suggestions/product guide as well. We used the pink stuff when making wing cores for vacume bagging discus launched glider wings, as the pink foam is about 25-30% lighter.

Doug
 
Hey Gang,

Mark is doing 5 total WOF 29's, Three are spoken for I believe, So that leaves two looking for homes.

Mark has done buildups for me before, All first rate with Xcellent ply, Straight and true ;)

Better jump if ya want one....... Dont know how soon he will want to take on a task of this size again :lol:

Get with him for pricing,

Gener B)
 
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Hey Gang,

Mark is doing 5 total WOF 29's, Three are spoken for I believe, So that leaves two looking for homes.

Mark has done buildups for me before, All first rate with Xcellent ply, Straight and true ;)

Better jump if ya want one....... Dont know how soon he will want to take on a task of this size again :lol:

Get with him for pricing,

Gener B)
I'll buy one

e-mail me for pricing

and payment instructions.

Dave Hobson

[email protected] (boatshop)
 
I'll buy one

e-mail me for pricing

and payment instructions.

Dave Hobson

[email protected] (boatshop)
Dave,

Just sent you an email..

Hey Gang,

Mark is doing 5 total WOF 29's, Three are spoken for I believe, So that leaves two looking for homes.

Mark has done buildups for me before, All first rate with Xcellent ply, Straight and true ;)

Better jump if ya want one....... Dont know how soon he will want to take on a task of this size again :lol:

Get with him for pricing,

Gener B)

Gener,

Thanks for the plug.. Much appreciated.. :D Think after this it'll be a short break while the dust settles. There's a Whiplash 40 needing to be built..
 
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Cool page Mark!

Thanks Tim... Questions were being asked on how to build a WOF, so I thougth why not do this project. I've built two boats at once before. Can only think that the first cuts I made, came out with ten pieces. Ten makes five boats.. Simple math :blink:

I have changed a few things on how it's done via the plan. The center section/radio box is supposed to be full length. That was changed to allow a removable radio box. Still got my first 29", I'll have to post pics to show the difference. Also, the transom mount was moved forward 1". My current race boat likes the setup..
 
Cool page Mark!

Thanks Tim... Questions were being asked on how to build a WOF, so I thougth why not do this project. I've built two boats at once before. Can only think that the first cuts I made, came out with ten pieces. Ten makes five boats.. Simple math :blink:

I have changed a few things on how it's done via the plan. The center section/radio box is supposed to be full length. That was changed to allow a removable radio box. Still got my first 29", I'll have to post pics to show the difference. Also, the transom mount was moved forward 1". My current race boat likes the setup..
Very good of you to share your knowledge like that! Imagine if even 10% of the IW users posted such things - how good would it be for model boating?

Your current race boat use a lawless with that transom inset, right? Would using a drive with 1 inch less distance from prop to pivot pin give the same effect by any chance? I'll be using a mod TT on my WOF30.
 
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Very good of you to share your knowledge like that! Imagine if even 10% of the IW users posted such things - how good would it be for model boating?

Your current race boat use a lawless with that transom inset, right? Would using a drive with 1 inch less distance from prop to pivot pin give the same effect by any chance? I'll be using a mod TT on my WOF30.
I still consider myself a novice WOF builder as there are things I still change while building the next boat. If the information on my process helps even one person building their WOF's, then I'm happy I was able to assist.

Yes, my current race boat uses the Lawless with a 1" insert. This puts the prop nut at 6" from the back of the spoons. Do believe there was discussion on this length some time back and 6" back is where optimal placing would be for the prop. Someone with more pond experience might be able to answer your question.

And these five boats will have the transom set at 1" insert.

Dang computer won't recognize my camera to download latest pics of the project. Status of the project is: Just glued down the rear radio box piece on the center section. Tomorrow the bottom center section will be glued on.
 
Hope to see those latest building pics soon B)

Thomas
 
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