WOF 28/30

[cjm102]

Hi all.

I'm trying to build a WOF 30 for the up coming NSW state titles. This will be my first thing that I have built. I'm currently running a ABS hotshot and I think that this will be a good upgrade. I'm currently cutting all the parts out and need a little help.

I was having a look at the instructions and I found that there was a little extension off the back sponsons. (See att) In my cut plans that I have, there is no extensions that I can see. Should I incorporate these into the plans and by how much?

The bottom of the sponson is in 2 halves. Why not make them into one? Is it stepped at all or is it just smoothed out?

If you are reading this and you are thinking to yourself "this bloke has no idea”........ Well I don't! But I'm trying.

Thanks for any help.

Chris

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[snowdog-2112]

"I was having a look at the instructions and I found that there was a little extension off the back sponsons. (See att) In my cut plans that I have, there is no extensions that I can see. Should I incorporate these into the plans and by how much?"

Chris, the extension you are referring to is for the purpose of, :blink: hmm, I'm not really sure what it does other than extend the sponson. If I recall, JD has his at 1/8 of an inch.

"The bottom of the sponson is in 2 halves. Why not make them into one? Is it stepped at all or is it just smoothed out?"

You want them smooth.

Cheers,

Snowdog

 

[poolschool]

Chris,

Leave about 3 mm (1/8") of sheeting "hanging" off the rear of the sponsons.

As for the 2 piece sponson bottoms - they are in 2 pieces because the last 11 inches of the rear of the sponson need to be dead flat. If you use a singler piece it will be harder to achieve this as you will probably warp the sponson as you try to bend it into shape.

2 piece bottom sheeting makes it easier to achieve this. Just butt joint the 2 pieces and sand flat.

I don't know if the plans call for it or not, but leave a "spray rail" along the edge where the sponson bottom meet the non-trip sheeting.

Hope this helps and have fun building. Tip - use West System Epoxy 105 resin and 206 hardner. This is superior stuff and is available from Advanced Composites in Waverly Drive Unanderra. Suggest you get the metered pumps for it as well so that you get the correct resin/hardner ratio of 5 to 1.

Gino

 

[RIGGERMORTISE]

Chris,
Leave about 3 mm (1/8") of sheeting "hanging" off the rear of the sponsons.

As for the 2 piece sponson bottoms - they are in 2 pieces because the last 11 inches of the rear of the sponson need to be dead flat. If you use a singler piece it will be harder to achieve this as you will probably warp the sponson as you try to bend it into shape.

2 piece bottom sheeting makes it easier to achieve this. Just butt joint the 2 pieces and sand flat.

I don't know if the plans call for it or not, but leave a "spray rail" along the edge where the sponson bottom meet the non-trip sheeting.

Hope this helps and have fun building. Tip - use West System Epoxy 105 resin and 206 hardner. This is superior stuff and is available from Advanced Composites in Waverly Drive Unanderra. Suggest you get the metered pumps for it as well so that you get the correct resin/hardner ratio of 5 to 1.

Gino

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just a note Im building the WOF 30 too and have no overhang over the rear of the sponsons. and my preference is to mix the epoxy by weight, i dont like the meter pumps. While you are getting the epoxy from AVC get some micro filler to use on the trip chines and filling gaps.

Chris what engine and leg will you be running and are you going to the Nats?

I have pics of my boat build if needed

seeya

Dave

 

[cjm102]

HI all.

I think that I've got a lot of terminology to catch up on. :huh: :unsure:

I haven’t cut everything out yet but I think I'll extend the sponsons 1/8th inch. Good idea?. There was no info that I could see on the instructions detailing this. The photos are a little deceptive for me because I have never even looked at one in the flesh.

At this stage I don't even know where the Nat’s are on at. But at the moment I've only got a W/C K&B with slight mod's. I plan on fitting a pipe to it but Tim D won't let me do it before the Titles. I think that the Nat’s are held in September. I would love to eventually run a CMB/lawless. But at this stage all the people I run against have K&B ss's and that would be unfair advantage. The K&B will be the go for a little wile unless the other guy's are running otherwise.

I would love to see a couple of finished photos. I've only found one. Possibly one of the transom setup for a lawless.

Cheers

Chris

 

[Jerry Dunlap]

Chris,

Specilically, what would you like to see a photo of? I know the guy who designed the JD WOF 28/30 and think I can get him to take some photos.

Jerry

 

[RIGGERMORTISE]

Hi Chris

I have one pic in my gallery and I can take some more later if needed. The boat is still the same today as I have been too busy to work on any of my boats. The Nats are in Yarawonga on the end of April.

Jd WOF

Regards

Dave

PS Listen to tim. The master speaks to the grasshopper B) I have been in boats for a long time and Im still listening to what others have to say.

 

[cjm102]

I'm listening......

So Jerry. This Guy you know.... What dose he have to say about extending the sponsons? And why dose he make cuts in the foam before the 2 lower halves of the sponsons are fitted. Just for location marking?

I'm a little unsure on how to do the setback for the lawless lower. I think that it is a mod form the original cut plans.

PS: hay dave nice eng/lower just what I had in mind.

 

[TimD]

Chris,

Leave a little over hang there, and better yet, back cut it on an angle so that the trailing edge of the sponson is very sharp. Also as Gino said, make sure the last 11 inches are dead flat. These 2 things make or break the performance and handling of the boat.

How about posting some progress pic's?

Tim.

 

[Jerry Dunlap]

Chris,

The 1/8" overage on the sponson bottom sheeting is to create a sharp break.

Not sure about the question regarding cuts in the foam before glueing the bottom sheeting. I do mark the foam with a Sharpie to know where the part ends. Wonder if that looks like a cut?

For a LawLess lower unit, I would recommend an insert of 1 1/2".

JD

 

[waterbug]

Chris

Go to R/C Boat Modeler and you can pull up the article with pictures...!!

 

[vanduzer]

Jerry Designs the sheeting to be big so you can trim to size. The center section will be the same way.

Dave

 

[Kris Flynn]

Chris, if you don't get it built in time, i can lend you a DPI 3.5 tunnel (ABS) which is a lightly longer hull (26.5" from memory) and newer design compared to the Sprint...this make of boat also went 48MPH i beleive Jerry?

Oh i could also lend you the Villain that is pictured in my Avatar, but i dont want to help the opposition too much :lol: LMK

Kris

 

[cjm102]

Hi All.

I'm about to do all my final cutting tomorrow arvo for the sponsons.

I'll make certain that I incorporate the 1/8th inch overhand on the final cuts.

Jerry I had a look at the instructions again and saw that it was a marker that I was talking about. Thanks for clearing that up for me. It was dark and black so I thought that it was a shadow from a cut.

Tim thanks for not putting any pressure on me to build a perfect first boat

I'll try my best......... I don't know if it will be good enough yet. We’ll see come race day.

If I don't get the WOF finished by the Titles I'll use the hotshot. I can keep up with the other boats at the moment so all I need to do is finish and I may come out with a good result. I've fitted the lexan sheeting to the sponsons as Allen said and it has made a huge difference to speed and handling.

TTYL

Chris

 

[cjm102]

Hi All.

Where do I get the foam from in Australia???

I can't get it near me and noone know's anything about it.

You may be able to help me tim.

Cheers

Chris

 

[Tim_Duggan]

Chris,

Ask Paul Osmond where he gets his from. He did tell me once but I forgot. He uses the Blue insulation foam.

He's Ozzy2 on this forum.

By the time you have the second boat done you should be a PRO at building them :lol: :lol: :lol:

Tim.

 

[cjm102]

Hi Guys

So much for getting the boat done boat the state titles in about 2 weeks. I'm still trying to get the foam for the boat and all I can find is polystyrene foam (white bubbly stuff)

I have looked around to find a cheaper alternative to Klegacell. I found a product called polypropylene. In one of the product description's they mentioned it being used for r/c plain wings. Just wondering if it could be used for the WOF? much cheaper! and they use it in body boards.

Cheers

Chris

 

[Jerry Dunlap]

Sounds like it would work.

JD

 

[Jerry Wyss]

Hi Guys
So much for getting the boat done boat the state titles in about 2 weeks. I'm still trying to get the foam for the boat and all I can find is polystyrene foam (white bubbly stuff)

I have looked around to find a cheaper alternative to Klegacell. I found a product called polypropylene. In one of the product description's they mentioned it being used for r/c plain wings. Just wondering if it could be used for the WOF? much cheaper! and they use it in body boards.

Cheers

Chris

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I'm not familar with "polyproylene" foam but you wouldn't want to use anything that has "cells"so large that would hold alot of glue. I've heard of "urethane"foam

which in a lighter type is very good :huh:

 

[cjm102]

Hi All I made a start.

Here are some photos:Photos

That is where I'm up to now...... Just wating for the glue to dry.

TTYL

Chris