WOF 28/30

[Tim_Duggan]

Is that a mini sitting underneath the extra foam?

 

[cjm102]

Yes! Nice guess! Sounds like you know what you are looking at Tim.

It is one of 2 that I have and one of thousands of UN finished projects that I have. That one is a clubman in British racing green with white roof. And my other one is a cooper S replica red with white roof (just out of frame).

TTYL

Chris

 

[Tim_Duggan]

B.R.G with white roof - perfect colours for a "brick". What year model and is it getting a 1275 transplant?

You just don't see 'em on the road any more.

 

[cjm102]

B.R.G with white roof - perfect colours for a "brick". What year model and is it getting a 1275 transplant?
You just don't see 'em on the road any more.

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"Brick" Ha Ha Ha!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

I don't know yet. I have a couple of 1275's around but I think that I was going to use one of my 1100's. It's not built yet. The other Mini has the works!

Chris

 

[RIGGERMORTISE]

Yes! Nice guess! Sounds like you know what you are looking at Tim.
It is one of 2 that I have and one of thousands of UN finished projects that I have. That one is a clubman in British racing green with white roof. And my other one is a cooper S replica red with white roof (just out of frame).

TTYL

Chris

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I have an original owners handbook for the 67 series mini, etc etc

dave

 

[Tim_Duggan]

Mini's are fantastic little cars, except they have the same problem as esky's. The prince of darkness - Lucas electrics.... I found that changing it all to bosch is the only way to go. All the lucas junk has found the bin with my latest one and I'm fitting bosch everything. (you would think an English car would be waterproof hey! - my first esky just had to smell rain and would start to missfire, loose lights etc....)

 

[cjm102]

Oh yeah. I didn't finish the answer. It's a 1971 i think. and the other is 1969.

And never sean a original hand book Dave.

 

[RIGGERMORTISE]

Oh yeah. I didn't finish the answer. It's a 1971 i think. and the other is 1969.
And never sean a original hand book Dave.

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I have a picture somewhere in my camera. I will post it after the weekend. It has all the minir service and repair details along with the service tearoff bits in the back. This covers all the moris, moke and cooper s models for 1967 and 68.

It may be for sale later,

seeya

Dave

 

[cjm102]

HI

I am waiting for the glue to dry at the moment. But I just fitted the tops to the sponsons. I don't think that I did it correctly. I tried to fit the two pieces at once & didn't cut them down first. When I fitted them they just wanted to lift in the middle. I placed a couple of bricks on them to help but it wasn't what I had hoped for. One at a time next time or I think that I'll do away with the two piece top altogether.

Besides that I'm really enjoying building the Wof. I was a little scared of the job because I had never built any model boat or plane before. But once I had put on the first piece on, I couldn't wait for the glue to dry so I could fit next piece.

I think that I will have this completed for the Australian Nationals if I keep going at this rate.

TTYL

Chris

PHOTOS

 

[waterbug]

There is a trick to putting on the two piece top... Start with the inside piece and a straight edge and make sure that both edges are straight, sand the high spots.. once you get them straight glue it down to the foam and the 1/8" lite ply..

Take the second piece and only sand the side that fits the inside top sheet outter edge, once you get a good fit glue it and let the outside hang over, you can trim it later... If you cut the foam right and put the 1/8x3/8 strip on and sanded the angle on the foam before you put the second piece on top it's done.. all you need do is sand.. I use a master airscrew razor plane to trim the anti-trip sheet and the outter top sponson sheet flush with the 1/8x3/8 strip .. When using the single top 1/8"guide to mark the foam cut, if you use a fine marker or ink pin and take your time there it pays off later when it comes time to put the 1/8x3/8 strip on before you start the top sponson sheeting .. The $100.00, 9" band saw is priceless when building boats !!!!! Craftsman or Delta !!!

CONFUSED YET ??? :lol:

Butch

I'm building my 5'th and 6'th WOF and my first two WOF-28's The first 28 will be per-plans,,, the second 28, the upper sponsons and deck will have a Lynx shape to it !!!!

 

[cjm102]

Thanks for that. The tops actually turned out better than I expected.

I had a few problems with the lower sponson sheeting. I cut the shape exactly how Jerry has in the plans. And when I tried to fit the tape around them to help hold them down (as he has in the instructions) the wood just wanted to move towards the inside of the sponson. So I placed some pins in the foam but I still couldn’t tape them down very hard. So once again I placed bricks on top to help hold them down. And I'm glad that I had the clamps for the front. I don't think that I could do this without them.

So while I'm here are there any tips for this procedure?

And how to form a good Strake. Or what ever the little fill in part is.? Dose this taper off toward the front? Would someone be able to post a photo?

Cheers

Chris

 

[waterbug]

I take masking tape and put it down along the edge so I don't get any on the sponson ride pad.... I use bondo or epoxy with micro ballons mixed in and a flexable bondo applicator to pack it under the lip and feather it out towards the front....And remove the tape before the bondo sets up !! after set up re-apply tape.. Then I use acrylic body putty to fillin any low spots... Then sand lightly and square !!

Then I use the Mike P sealing method ....

 

[Jerry Dunlap]

Butch did a great job of describing the two-piece deck glueing procedure. Since the plans were published, I've gone to a one piece top deck like the Villian.

JD

 

[cjm102]

Then I use the Mike P sealing method ....

What's this??? Point me in the direction and I shall follow.......

Chris

 

[poolschool]

Then I use the Mike P sealing method ....
What's this??? Point me in the direction and I shall follow.......

Chris

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Chris,

the Mike P method is apply a coat of epoxy and then wipe it off with paper towel. This removes the excess epoxy as you only want to seal the wood - not add weight. Then when dry sand and steel wool to achieve nice smooth finish.

Hope this helps

Gino

 

[poolschool]

Oh yeah h34r: - this method also helps to remove most of the "rough spots" when the epoxy is dry - will save you sanding for hours

 

[cjm102]

Thanks.

I’ll about to fit up the next piece of the puzzle. I'm just procrastinating about it....... that is why I'm writing this .

One more quick question: I have placed a straight edge along the 11" flat and it is close straight but not perfect. What I mean by close is if you hold it up to the light you can see some light, but only just. Should I try to block sand it or?

Progress

Cheers

Chris

 

[poolschool]

Chris,

looking good mate. I personally would be happy with what you've got with regards to straightness. As you probably already know, if the last 11 inches aint flat the boat will porpoise along the straights.

You could try to block sand further but you run the risk of making it worse. I'd leave it as is.

Get that thing in the water h34r:

Gino

 

[waterbug]

The Mike P method is like poolschool said, but you leave the first coat on for 5 minutes then wipe with paper towles, let dry, sand ... then reapply wait 5 minutes wipe off let dry then sand .... By then you will have a good seal and can sand that flat !!!! and MAKE SURE ALL EDGES ARE SHARP !!!!

Mike P method uses West Systems Epoxy with the slow cure hardener... OR Use 20 minute Finish Cure Epoxy !!!!!

Butch

 

[waterbug]

JD

I have two 28's on the building table now one will be per plans the other will have the upper deck of the lynx !!! :lol:

{ Top of sponsons shaped like airfoil with the two hydro cuts on each sponson side rears.... B) }

Butch h34r: