What paint to use on glow models?

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K

KC

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Ihave always used Hobbypoxy or K&B epoxy paints for all my glow models but they are no longer available. I have also used up my remaining stock. Need to finish two winter projects (.21 and .45 hydro). What is a good paint to use and is safe enough to spray in my garage?

Thanks,

KC
 
The person who paints my boats uses Protech two part Urethane automotive paint and clear. I have not had any problem with nitro or oil affecting it. He sprays in his shed, but has a fan running to draw in fresh air.

Ian.
 
...epoxy is out....Urethane is in!!

Either use one stage (Tinted urethane color) or two stage (Basecoat/Urethane clearcoat)....it's always fuel proof.

If you surf back through the posts...there have been some good ones about painting.
 
Thanks for the replies. I thought the 2-part auto paints (like Imron)are all very nasty to our health. Can I apply these safely in my garage? With respirator of course.

I saw a few previous threads on paint. I think I will try Rustoleum again. Actually over the years I have tried most spray paints including Black Baron and Tremclads and other single part polyurethane and I still prefer Hobbypoxy or K&B. Is there a source in the States for Hobbypoxy paint? I still have lots of pigment and need the catalyst.

Thanks,

KC
 
The varsol based paints like Rustoleum or Tremclad will lift with anything over 20%.

Urethane Clear can be pretty nasty stuff....using a cyano-acrilite hardener. (cyano=cyanide!)..but its nothing a good respirator can't handle. (never cheap out on respirator or filters)..

After 20 minutes...its dust/tack free and you can open your garage door without worrying about dust contamination on your model. Its also extremely easy to repair/repaint damage without repainting the whole model.

..I am not sure if it is any more dangerous than epoxy based paints....

hope this helps.
 
when i paint i use imron it is bad stuff but if you use a resperator and not breath very much it isnt too bad if you are only spraying a few times a year. the prefect setup is to use a external air mask about $400 but if you start to spray for other people its worth it. the other idea is acrilic enamal i dont know if it will hold up to the nitro but that would be your second best thing i think ???
 
Hi Guy's

The acrylic modified enamels will stand up to moderate amounts of nitro but will be much better protected by Urethane clear over the top. The hardner in both paints is an 'isocyanate' and yes it is potentially very harmful. If you must use only a respirator with at least double cartridge filters and change them often. If you feel at all light headed or find it difficult to breathe get out quickly. Forgot to mention if you can smell paint your filters are gone.

One other note of caution these paints should be mixed in a well ventilated room and you should be wearing mask and gloves to handle. Fumes can and will be absorbed through skin and is probably as bad as getting a lung full. Unfortunately nothing else works nearly as good.

Keep safe.

GT
 
Thanks all for your input. Not having any professional spray booth or respirator set up in my garage at this time I will not attempt any 2-part auto paint at this time. I saw several previous threads on this subject so I will give the spray can another try. Probably Lustercote or Rustoleum on a .21 tunnel since it is less likely to spill fuel on an outboard.
 
I've been using the Formula-U paint for a while now and I like it better than the Lustercote. Nice gloss finish and the smell isn't too bad. It does have to be put on in light coats as it does want to run easily. I've also tried Black Baron and Perfect paints, don't like either one.
 
GTR is right.

The hardener is isocyanate,- not cyanoacrylate. (CA glue) My mistake.

Both have the same nasty component.....cyanide.

be careful using the stuff.
 
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