Sources for Micro-Mill tooling - Vice, etc.

[Darin Jordan]

Hi guys...

I need to replace the vice on my Micro-Mark mill and was wondering if you guys had any recommendations?

The small Micro-Mark tilting vice I have seems to be bending downard when you tighten it down. Not ideal.

I'm also looking for sources for tooling in general for this sized lathe, so if you have any links or sources that you'd be willing to share, please do. I need to get more sophisticated on how I use this, but I need to appropriate tooling, hold-downs, etc., to make it happen and would like to start collecting them.

Then, I need to figure out how to get the **** collet holder to release so I can mount other accessories (drill chuck, etc)... **** thing is just stuck, and even a 5lbs sledge striking the top of the hold-down rod won't shock it free... Went in, won't come out... Ugggh.

Thanks!

 

[Geraghty]

Hi guys...

I need to replace the vice on my Micro-Mark mill and was wondering if you guys had any recommendations?

The small Micro-Mark tilting vice I have seems to be bending downard when you tighten it down. Not ideal.

I'm also looking for sources for tooling in general for this sized lathe, so if you have any links or sources that you'd be willing to share, please do. I need to get more sophisticated on how I use this, but I need to appropriate tooling, hold-downs, etc., to make it happen and would like to start collecting them.

Then, I need to figure out how to get the **** collet holder to release so I can mount other accessories (drill chuck, etc)... **** thing is just stuck, and even a 5lbs sledge striking the top of the hold-down rod won't shock it free... Went in, won't come out... Ugggh.

Thanks!

http://littlemachineshop.com/Info/vise_compare.php

 

[John Beardslee]

I'm not familiar with this specific mill but most have a key way in the collet and one in the spindle. If you possibly pulled the collet in with the draw bar and not have the keyway aligned with the key, it may take a really heavy hammer to get it out. Make sure to keep the draw bar threaded into the collet as much as you can to prevent stripping the theads when you hit it with the hammer. Hope this helps.

Thanks, John

 

[dwilfong]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Precision-Grinding-Toolmakers-Steel-Vise-0-0002-/370905531466?pt=BI_Tool_Work_Holding&hash=item565bb1444a#ht_1623wt_917

Darin I have this and it almost never leaves my small mill.

It is the most vestal tool you will get.

also after you beat the collet out get a set of collets. thy are not to expensive and it will make your cuts much better.

Also a cheep small rotary table is a good investment.

Look on Ebay there are many options on tooling at a good price.

I get every thing off Ebay.

It takes time to gather tooling but it get easer the more you get.

 

[glenng]

I'm not familiar with this specific mill but most have a key way in the collet and one in the spindle. If you possibly pulled the collet in with the draw bar and not have the keyway aligned with the key, it may take a really heavy hammer to get it out. Make sure to keep the draw bar threaded into the collet as much as you can to prevent stripping the theads when you hit it with the hammer. Hope this helps.

Thanks, John

I agree with John, If the collet can not be removed with a 5 Lb. hammer it has likely spun inside the taper and fused itself to the collet. It should take no more than a tap with a wrench on top of the draw bar to free the collet. The vice David showed a picture of would be Ideal for a small mill. Tilting vices are not rigid or accurate. I think some expect too much from small machines. An old saying- never send a boy to do a mans job.

 

[Darin Jordan]

I'm not familiar with this specific mill but most have a key way in the collet and one in the spindle. If you possibly pulled the collet in with the draw bar and not have the keyway aligned with the key, it may take a really heavy hammer to get it out. Make sure to keep the draw bar threaded into the collet as much as you can to prevent stripping the theads when you hit it with the hammer. Hope this helps.

Thanks, John

I agree with John, If the collet can not be removed with a 5 Lb. hammer it has likely spun inside the taper and fused itself to the collet. It should take no more than a tap with a wrench on top of the draw bar to free the collet. The vice David showed a picture of would be Ideal for a small mill. Tilting vices are not rigid or accurate. I think some expect too much from small machines. An old saying- never send a boy to do a mans job.

Thanks, Guys... I'll definitely look at that vice. I was looking at it earlier today from Geraghty's link, so it was already on my list...

As for the collet... it's not actually the collet that is stuck. I have a collet holder mounted in the mill, which is a Micro-Mark piece. I'm pretty sure it's never spun, but it's definitely tightened down. All of the "Big-Boy" mills I worked before would just pop out with a quick "wrap" with a lead or brass hammer. I can't make this one budge.

I'll beat on it some more, hopefully not break anything, and then go thru the setup/truing process again...

I'm also in the market for hold-downs, T-nuts, a fly cutter... and... and.... and...

 

[michael winter]

If it is a MicroMark mill, I had the same problem when I went to install my milling bit holder. they are in VERY TIGHT. I ended up tightening the bolt back up, then backed it out just enough for the collet to break free and it came out. I make certain from now on that when I change from the mill end holder to the keyless chuck, the bolt is 'just' snug. And I used a deadblow hammer and no more problems. I will also second Littlemachineshop.com for parts and tooling, great bunch to deal with.

Mike

 

[John Beardslee]

It sounds like you have a tapered tool holder. In that case it's probably a matching taper setup and they can be really tight. When you do get it out make sure it to clean the holder and the taper in the column, as well as making sure there are no burrs, dings etc in the out surface of the tapered part of the tool holder. Actually palm them with your hands and fingers each time you remove and replace the tool holder back in the mill.

Thanks, John

 

[glenng]

Darin, A few things I forgot to mention- Kroll oil(for stuck parts) spray on and let set overnight. Enco and MSC (both online) sell tooling Enco is cheaper but MSC's quality is better. Another place you might check is Grizley Engr. they sell smaller machines and are in your area.

Glenn

 

[Darin Jordan]

Finally got around to trying to get the collet holder out of the spindle... Decided to just go for it. Beat on it so hard it knocked the spindle out of the bottom WITH the bearings...

I decided to take it all apart, and have the spindle assembly sitting outside in the 20-degree weather getting very cold... Will try using my 20-ton press to see if I can press it apart. If that doesn't work, I'm going to toss the **** thing and order a new spindle from "the Little Machine Shop"... About a $75.00 bill... Oh well... I need it to WORK!

Also looking at doing a belt-drive conversion. Found this one: http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2560&category=

I think there is something similar on E-Bay for around $100.00 that looks pretty nice also.

It looks like it may be a worthwhile upgrade. I want to be able to REALLY used this mill... Thus far, it's just been "making surfaces flat"... I want to start really making things.

Will also look at getting a DRO setup.

 

[Tony Jacuzzi]

I did the belt drive conversion and think it was well worth it

 

[Darin Jordan]

I did the belt drive conversion and think it was well worth it

Thank you for the feedback... that is really good to know.