Source for End-Mills, etc.??

[Darin Jordan]

Where are the preferred sources for End-Mills for smaller mills these days??

I need to get some 3/16" Ball End-Mills, etc.

Figured I'd ask the experts.

 

[Blackout]

Here is an option, maybe not the best, don't know, but I have bought from McMasters.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#end-mills/=rcmihh

 

[Hydro Junkie]

Swift Tools has them, as well as a couple of different locations. One is located at 1720 Central Ave S in Kent, the other at 12414 Highway 99, Ste 3 in Everett. I've bought several end mills from the Everett site, most carbide but they also carry HSS as well. The Everett phone number is

(425) 347-3300.

There is another tool shop just off Interurban in Tukwila, don't remember the name however

 

[Rick Sowell]

Darin, check out Enco, Shars, MSC, and Grizzly, they all have a good selection and can internet order.

 

[Rick Sowell]

Darin, check out a thread in the motors section called, making head buttons, by David Willfong he has a link in there for some radius end mills for head buttons. these have different radius ends perfect for head buttons.

 

[Darin Jordan]

Thanks Guys... It looks like Grizzly may have what I'm looking for.

If I may ask a little more advice???

For doing aluminum, Are the HSS end-mills generally OK, or do I need to pop for the Carbide stuff??

 

[dwilfong]

Ebay I get every thing from there. Best prices. just beware if coming from Canada or Hong Kong it will take some time.

 

[Hydro Junkie]

Carbide cutting edges last longer, not really required otherwise. One thing I learned is don't do aluminum with a four flute bit. They tend to jam up more than the two and three flute will, especially if running dry like I have been

 

[glenng]

Enco and MSC. 2 or three fiutes for Alum. HSS ok, even small carbide mills get expensive. I mix up some A-9 cutting fluid with iso alch.

 

[Terry Keeley]

Put some Tapmagic for aluminum on a brush and wipe the chips away from time to time and it'll cut much cleaner.

 

[Al Hobbs]

If you are machining aluminum and brass, do not spend a lot on carbide end mills. HSS will work well enough and save you a lot in comparison.

If you plan to machine hardened steel, then you should buy carbide end mills.

Unless you are planning to maintain extremely tight tolerance results in hard metals, buy the cheaper tools.

Borrow an MSC catalog and you will have more choices than you can believe.

Different aluminums behave differently when machined. You'll spend some time trying to figure out the depth of cut and speed to prevent the material from balling up on the tool and to get a decent finish.

If you are going to machine stainless and/or exotic metals, call me, we've got the right end mills in stock.

Al Hobbs

 

[Darin Jordan]

Thanks everyone. Really good info and tips. Looks like I have some ordering to do.

 

[Jim Mamaril]

Although it is not the best WD40 works as a cutting fluid on aluminum when using high speed steel. What a lot of people don't realize is that it takes less cutting pressure with HSS than it does with carbide tools.Carbide requires a more rigid set up and that isn't always possible with the smaller machines we use for hobby use.I agree with Al about MSC, more choices than you can shake a stick at.

 

[Darin Jordan]

More good info! Thanks Jim.

One more question if I may?

Coatings? Uncoated? Tin coated? TiCN?

????

 

[dwilfong]

Just a tip for those that port there own eng. put a long 4 flute 3/16 ball end mill in your dremel and run it at slow speed. It works real nice.

 

[glenng]

You are getting some good info here Darin- For Alum. I'd use uncoated. The lubricant you choose is up to you but all that have been mentioned would be better than cutting dry. A small tip- if you do use the gooey stuff take a metal cap of a aresol can and put a small magnet in the bottom- you won't be knocking it over and creating a mess on your machine.

 

[steve wood]

for aluminum,and delrin I use only zirconium coated carbide mills from msc(acupro brand).tin,or ticn,or aitin, or most other coatings act as an adhesive to aluminum,and the shavings weld to the cutter flutes.with these cutters(I love the 3 flute),you can run max rpm at cutter diameter depth,at max feed rate,and will be amazed at how good it cuts and how good the finish is(I made a believer out of Rocky).I also use wd-40 on aluminum,but may invest in a fog buster brand coolant setup,to cut down on the wd-40 smell I get when using it for several hours.

the 3 flute cutters will give you a great surface finish,and better size control than 2 or 4 flutes will

 

[Darin Jordan]

Wow... definitely great answers... You guys not only gave me some great info, but have likely saved me a lot of money in experimentation as well...

I'm looking at MSC, ENCO, etc... but I also found this place that looks like they have decent prices...

http://www.lakeshorecarbide.com/reglengthendmills.aspx

 

[Andy Brown]

Steve Wood is definately the machist guru here, so whatever he says is good.

I will say that the average guy with a small hobby type bench mill must be very careful with carbides.

They make beautiful cuts until they crash into the part at the wrong feed/speed, hit and interuption or when the machine starts getting too loose.

At that point the brittle carbide will chip and the $50 carbide will become junk.

A good alternative to carbide is M-42 cobalt mills. The are longer lasting than HSS, will cut some relatively hard material and are tough enough

to withstand shock that would immediately chip a carbide.

If anyone needs a special custom endmill definately get up with Al Hobbs. They have a world class mill grinding machine and can make any

size and configuration of endmill that one could dream of.

 

[Darin Jordan]

Thanks again, Guys...

I ended up ordering two end-mill sets from ENCO last night. One 20-piece 2 and 4-flute HSS mill set, and a 6-piece Ball End-Mill set. Those should do what I need for now.

I'll ordering some good ones individually as I find the need. Right now, it's all just pretty light aluminum work.