Pay N Pak

[larcor69]

I havent even broke the seal on my box to even look at mine..lol.. :unsure:

 

[Bill Gibson]

I havent even broke the seal on my box to even look at mine..lol.. :unsure:

So many builds.....so little time!

 

[R.J.West]

No new pics yet for me, however the lastest scoop on mine is I have sealed up the hull with Zpoxy finishing resin, I brushed on a good coat under the cowl and in the hull center as well, Its good, user friendly stuff. This morning I started to wet sand the hull with 600 and it sanded very well, and it now looks like a piece of fine furniature with a satin finish that if you hold it at an angle you can see the shine. The resin handles to the touch within 3 hours w/ no prints and cures rock hard overnite.I recieved my order from Tower and I found a new Futaba 3pm Fm in there along with a hitec HS81 that Im usimng for throttle, I set aside a hitec MG625 for rudder. I found a piece of 1/8 plexiglass last night! So i traced out the ply radio box cover over it, cut it out and installed my Dubro combo ON/OFF switch/charger and a black dubro anteana tube to the top.

The radio box layout on this hull is somewhat limiting. Its taller towards the front and tapers down in back and i noticed that in my cnc servo mount puts the servo up too high and the arm is in the way of the cover. So that leaves me with having to mount the servo right off the hull bottom. The mount I have leaves the servo about 3/8 off the floor. So for functionality as one option is to make a cutout in the starboard side stringer and mount the servo into the wall, that will leave the servo arm practally in line with the rudder tiller arm, and allow me proper clearance for my servo arm. However that may compromise keeping the servo and radio gear protected from any potential water seeping in. In this position it saves me from having to drill holes for screws in my hull bottom as I want a clean hull bottom, and I can be able to have better access to the screws holding the servo in place without having to remove the mount first from the bottom. Any ideas?

Also I bought orange and black monocoat trim sheets, and I will soon start cutting out the Pay N' Pak decals....

As soon as I have those I'l post pics

 

[Bill Gibson]

No new pics yet for me, however the lastest scoop on mine is I have sealed up the hull with Zpoxy finishing resin, I brushed on a good coat under the cowl and in the hull center as well, Its good, user friendly stuff. This morning I started to wet sand the hull with 600 and it sanded very well, and it now looks like a piece of fine furniature with a satin finish that if you hold it at an angle you can see the shine. The resin handles to the touch within 3 hours w/ no prints and cures rock hard overnite.I recieved my order from Tower and I found a new Futaba 3pm Fm in there along with a hitec HS81 that Im usimng for throttle, I set aside a hitec MG625 for rudder. I found a piece of 1/8 plexiglass last night! So i traced out the ply radio box cover over it, cut it out and installed my Dubro combo ON/OFF switch/charger and a black dubro anteana tube to the top.

The radio box layout on this hull is somewhat limiting. Its taller towards the front and tapers down in back and i noticed that in my cnc servo mount puts the servo up too high and the arm is in the way of the cover. So that leaves me with having to mount the servo right off the hull bottom. The mount I have leaves the servo about 3/8 off the floor. So for functionality as one option is to make a cutout in the starboard side stringer and mount the servo into the wall, that will leave the servo arm practally in line with the rudder tiller arm, and allow me proper clearance for my servo arm. However that may compromise keeping the servo and radio gear protected from any potential water seeping in. In this position it saves me from having to drill holes for screws in my hull bottom as I want a clean hull bottom, and I can be able to have better access to the screws holding the servo in place without having to remove the mount first from the bottom. Any ideas?

Also I bought orange and black monocoat trim sheets, and I will soon start cutting out the Pay N' Pak decals....

As soon as I have those I'l post pics

RJ, i gotta tell ya that i have drilled holes right thru the bottom of several of my boats to hold my servos and mounts down and have had ZERO problems! I simply epoxy a 1/16th doubler on the floor top, inside the radio box where the mount and servo would lay, then drill the proper hole size to tap the wood for a 4-40 counsink machine screw which you can get at McmasterCarr, then countersink the hole you drilled thru the bottom of the boat. The reason why i like to do this is if the servo mount breaks, or you strip a thread, you can take the whole thing out to repair or replace it, and by countersinking the holes on the bottom of the boat, the bottom will still be smooth....if the boat is running correctly, the bottom wont be in the water anyway! Just a thought!! Oh, and ive made/machined mounts from aluminum to delrin and back to wood....wood is just fine...maybe not high tech, but serves the purpose quite well, and takes ALOT less time to make!

 

[R.J.West]

Hi Bill Thanks for the input, I'm pretty much sold on installing the servo thru the hull bottom as you said. I have some 3/16 square oak stock that I can use for mounting the servo onto.

 

[larcor69]

I have done many thru the hull floor servo mounting with counter sunk screw's, also a great place to order stainless screw's is http://stainlesstown.com/ there cheaper than the local hwd store, I have my own little hardware store in a box, I ordered like 50 of each size I ever thought I could use, washers,nut's..ect

 

[Don Ferrette]

Ok this is yet another thread I've have to "clean up". Hydro Junkie and Miss Hydro, this is the LAST TIME you two are going to be told to behave, stop the crap or you BOTH will get a nice time out from I/W. I've got more important things to do than play baby sitter for the two of you when you both start acting like 5 year olds. And I don't want any posts on here or even p/m's from either of you "explaining" your side, HJ you called MH out and she took the bait but regardless both of you knock it off for good. :angry:

 

[R.J.West]

I forgot to mention this before,

Im using a OPS .21 side exhaust engine with the cast aluminum carb and when the engine is mounted in the hull the carb needle is hitting the inside of the hull. Are there any suggestions on a remote needle that will work on this engine?

 

[Bill Gibson]

I forgot to mention this before,

Im using a OPS .21 side exhaust engine with the cast aluminum carb and when the engine is mounted in the hull the carb needle is hitting the inside of the hull. Are there any suggestions on a remote needle that will work on this engine?

Can you trim part of the needle back to clear the side? I had to do that with my 20 hydro......

 

[R.J.West]

Can you trim part of the needle back to clear the side? I had to do that with my 20 hydro......

Hi Bill, I'l try that as an absolute last resort. What i would love to do is trim off about 5-6MM and put a "L" bend back into it, then it would be perfect. I do have a Z bend pliers here at home made for 4-40 gauge wire, but it might be a pain in the hand as the needle is alittle thick...I've been eyeballin' that O.S. #9B remote needle, But I'm not sure if its the correct one I need....

 

[Bill Gibson]

Can you trim part of the needle back to clear the side? I had to do that with my 20 hydro......

Hi Bill, I'l try that as an absolute last resort. What i would love to do is trim off about 5-6MM and put a "L" bend back into it, then it would be perfect. I do have a Z bend pliers here at home made for 4-40 gauge wire, but it might be a pain in the hand as the needle is alittle thick...I've been eyeballin' that O.S. #9B remote needle, But I'm not sure if its the correct one I need....

Thats exactly what i did with my OPS needle...i do run the O.S. remote needle in my new 20 hydro, but i cant remember the model number...seems that its different than the 9B setup,but i could be wrong....

 

[Blackout]

I forgot to mention this before,

Im using a OPS .21 side exhaust engine with the cast aluminum carb and when the engine is mounted in the hull the carb needle is hitting the inside of the hull. Are there any suggestions on a remote needle that will work on this engine?

I was at my LHS ordering an O.S. 9B remote needle assembly today for my .46VX-M. I noticed that O.S. has a remote needle assembly for .21 size motors too, but I did not get the part number. The 9B is theoretically for .61 and up motors, according to O.S. anyways. Check out your LHS or towers for the O.S. 21 needle.

 

[Bill Gibson]

I forgot to mention this before,

Im using a OPS .21 side exhaust engine with the cast aluminum carb and when the engine is mounted in the hull the carb needle is hitting the inside of the hull. Are there any suggestions on a remote needle that will work on this engine?

I was at my LHS ordering an O.S. 9B remote needle assembly today for my .46VX-M. I noticed that O.S. has a remote needle assembly for .21 size motors too, but I did not get the part number. The 9B is theoretically for .61 and up motors, according to O.S. anyways. Check out your LHS or towers for the O.S. 21 needle.

Thats what i was kinda thinkin, as im using a 9B carb with the remote needle kit for my 60 scale hydro...which works absolutly GREAT I might add!

 

[R.J.West]

Thanks Blackout, Tower has a very selection of O.S. remote needles , I'l keep looking around for that one.

 

[Hydro Junkie]

Looks like my builds are all on hold for a bit. Talked to MECOA today, was told they will have the .21 inboard available in four weeks or so. If I still wanted one, I had to get on a waiting list. Needless to say, put my name in for a pair of them. I guess that also means I'll have to order a NR 21, pipe and header so I can get the first one going.

After laying out part of the new framing, I got to thinking. If I make the cowling too much wider than it already was in stock form, it won't look good. At the same time, if I dont' make it wide enough, it won't fit over the engine. I guess that means I'll have to wait on cutting anything until after I get an engine so I can see how wide I have to go. Tie that in with a road trip to Detroit in a few weeks, not to mention an Eagle kit that is missing a cowl and that brings me to April before I can start anything

 

[R.J.West]

Looks like my builds are all on hold for a bit. Talked to MECOA today, was told they will have the .21 inboard available in four weeks or so.... not to mention an Eagle kit that is missing a cowl and that brings me to April

HJ,

If your missing a cowl or anything from Dumas just give them a call and they'll send it out to you.

 

[Hydro Junkie]

I hope so, though I'm thinking about making a differently designedcowling than what comes with the stock kit, just to be...........different

 

[R.J.West]

Why dont you just build the thing and have fun already?

By the time you get done "thinking" it'l be winter again at the rate your going... :lol: :lol: :lol:

With all the info and discussions posted on two different forums on this particular boat, one would "think" that they would have a good idea of which direction they would go.... :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[Blackout]

Why dont you just build the thing and have fun already?

By the time you get done "thinking" it'l be winter again at the rate your going... :lol: :lol: :lol:

With all the info and discussions posted on two different forums on this particular boat, one would "think" that they would have a good idea of which direction they would go.... :lol: :lol: :lol:

Yup, the ice is starting to slowly melt here. I figure the water should be soft in a few weeks. I need to get a couple projects finished...

 

[R.J.West]

I started to cut out the "Pay N' Pak" decals this evening.... B)