My TS3 experience!!!

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sure adding wieght to the cg wont hurt anything... but be easy with how much you put there...im glad your having fun with that engine...burn that nitro boss...
 
sure adding wieght to the cg wont hurt anything... but be easy with how much you put there...im glad your having fun with that engine...burn that nitro boss...
yeah when your drivin' the boat with one steering rod, that might be considered some kinda fun :wacko:

It takes all kinds I guess :lol:
 
Hey Kevin,

Glad to hear you have been biten by the bug!

I am jealous you can run your boats so often LOL

Kris
 
You got part of that right!!!! I have been bit by the BUG!!!!!

Actually Kris it's been awhile I think 2 weeks was my last run... And for example I was up till 2:00AM last night cutting some steering arms to get her running again... I just don't have the time like I used to have... Lately it's been 13-14.5 hour work days and spent at the end of them... But the boat relieves some stress and builds a lot also!.!.!.!
 
Please keep in mind.. this boat IS painted and does not use shoe box construction.

Most of what we see is flex at the seam resulting in a crack in the paint.

Grim
 
flex over time equals cracks,,flex on a crack equals fracturing of the epoxy layup,,,fracturing of the layup (lets call it a membrain over the matting) equals leakage,,,,,,no? :unsure: maybe the shoe box is key ;)

apples to oranges the price is right and it handles rough water.. :D
 
I now have 3 spots taking on water..... Front tip of sponson, under the front latch for the cowl to hook on, this one acts as a ram water sorta thing similar to ram air, and the transom... All sealed up now but require some major fixin when the time comes...
 
I should have mentioned it is just a hairline crack about 2 1/2 inches long just under the outboard mount and about 1/2 inch up from the bottom. There doesn't appear to be any flex in that area.

I should also mention that it did not get any worse after the wipeout I had today. For what it's worth, I am still happy with the TS-3.

I am taking on a little water, but I suppose it is because I haven't put any sealant on the outboard mount bolts yet.
 
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You know what guys, other (more expensive I might add) fiberglass hulls get cracks in them and take on water too, whether they are shoe box construction or not. I have had many of the well known race hulls and am talking from my personal experience.

They are race boats, they get tortured during our use, and they show some signs of it. And lets face it, the TS3 IS a competitive, proven RACE hull, which is readily available at an extremely good price.

For me, A heavy lay-up to minimise cracks is less desirable than the performance gained from not having a boat that is way too heavy to begin with. Just my opinion.
 
What Tim said.

EVERY boat takes on water at some point. It is what it is, dont sweat it too much, just run it and have fun.

~ James
 
unfortunately,,, we as racers are few and far between when it comes to the world of sales.... yes (we) knowing the rigors of the hobby know its bound to happen... but what about the average guy that buys this thing and doesnt know that it comes with the territory... he starts to see cracks and starts to see water enter the hull,,, what do you think the average purchaser is gonna think??? well i think he is proly gonna call and complain... its just the way of the world...try telling that guy on the phone thats the way it is,,and you can expect some stress cracking,,and water entry,, bet he isnt to happy about it...

i guess thats just my take on it...

ac
 
So one should expect cracks to form and take on water when the hull has only seen a quart of fuel...I have only made enough laps to break the motor in...
 
I've just finished a TS3/ OS, but the weather hasn't been good enough here for the last 2 weekends to get it on the water. For first runs I'm avoiding waves with white caps...

It will be interesting to see if I get the same problem. Hope not, but I'll deal with it when and if. I checked the cowl posts and they needing sealing since the glass had broken away where the hole was drilled.

Is the theory that the cracking is from engine vibration and smacking the water, or pressure at the transom during starting, or excess flexing...?
 
unfortunately,,, we as racers are few and far between when it comes to the world of sales.... yes (we) knowing the rigors of the hobby know its bound to happen... but what about the average guy that buys this thing and doesnt know that it comes with the territory... he starts to see cracks and starts to see water enter the hull,,, what do you think the average purchaser is gonna think??? well i think he is proly gonna call and complain... its just the way of the world...try telling that guy on the phone thats the way it is,,and you can expect some stress cracking,,and water entry,, bet he isnt to happy about it...

i guess thats just my take on it...

ac
Its not a bad 'take', and certainly one that I am sure manufacturers take into consideration. Maybe there should be a disclaimer? Maybe it shouldnt happen at all? I dont know how to "handle it" but I can say EVERY tunnel I have ever seen, racing or not, will develop stress cracks. Wood, Fiberglass, ABS, Carbon...etc.

So one should expect cracks to form and take on water when the hull has only seen a quart of fuel...I have only made enough laps to break the motor in...
I have taken "high end" boats out of the box (brand new) only to find cracked gel-coat. Fiberglass moves quite a bit as temperatures fluctuate. Gel-coat is very brittle stuff.

Think about it, a 1.5 - 2 pound lightweight hull made of fairly thin fiberglass with a gelcoat - which is quite strong, but also very brittle - now add a 2 pound engine hanging off the very rear end of it. Once you are done with that, make it run 45+ mph over a rough (sometimes very rough) surface that is surprisingly hard. It takes a beating, so its only "expected" that things can happen. Water gets in the hulls. Stress cracks happen. Dump it out, patch it up, run it some more. Thats all im saying. I dont have a dog in this fight, and have nothing to do with the TS(enter whatever number here). Just stating what I have experienced over the past 12 years of racing and running tunnel boats.

I have to agree with Tim, I will gladly sacrifice a little crack or two in the gelcoat and water in the hull to have a lightweight, fast, well handling hull.

Again, just my opinions on it. If you aren't happy with the new hulls you guys are receiving, by all means talk to the manufacturer about it.

~ James
 
There are so many variables involved here. As a builder you strive to eliminate these issues at layup. The transom issue is sounding to be cosmetic, typical of a bolt up area where so much leverage is hanging from.

Not knowing structural points on the boat without seeing them and looking for the solution, I am sure that Mike and Russ are addressing these issues based on the knowledge of the build. That cradle area on a outboard tunnel is critical, and bracing and good old layup techniques are key.

Building a fast,light,strong 3.5 Tunnel is a challenge, Grimmy can make suggestions based on sound information. Input is key to a design where another source is manufacturing to spec, but not building based on a true working knowledge of product but of production only.

Just .02 from a 'glass guy.

RP
 
Tim D. and James well said... The more I think about it the better I feel but just wish I could have seen some more runs from her before I started mass repairs... I kinda expected the stress cracks by the transom but the other two looked like imperfections to me... But then again this hull has proven it self to me as far as how it handles and the speed I have seen from it!!!

But then again it just might be my TT pushing her that hard:)
 
We are happily looking in to what "MIGHT" be able to be done to add weight to the boat.... I mean make it stronger.... :p

KIDDING! :D

This is a tough area on the boat to control anyway.. we are looking into what can be done..

Just so you know.. early on I changed the shape of the back area to reduce the possibility of cracking. Personally I was not involved in the TS2 but if you look at the difference between the two its stark.

Why.. I/we were not going to repeat the issues in the back of that boat..

On we go!

Grim
 
keep it up grim,,, you guys are on to somthin great just like the vs1 and other aqua products... every boat has issues,,like stated earlier... bottom line is the hull does perform,, stock or mod...

ac
 
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