first build jae 12 need opinions?

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mike burt

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 23, 2011
Messages
77
This is first build.I have as couple questions.Should i tetounge prop when balancing and sharpening.Not comfortable with cupping or bending prop.Not planning on racing this boat.Or should i just balance and sharpen.I have seen pics of people removing the tounge on these.Also i notice small wobble on collet maybe 1/16 to 1/18 barely touches stuffing tube when slowly spun..Checked crank not bent just seems screw on collet has small wobble.Will this destroy engine bearing?I had to sand a little in flywheel to get collet lip to slip into flywheel is this common?Few small things to finish havent hooked up pressure line to exhaust dont know if drilling hole and threading one in will hold seems like mac pipe isnt that thick to tap?Also what do you guys do with your belt when running do you hook it to something?I ran slide carb and not alot of room but slide works awsome.People said dont use it but had it so used.opinons please?boat1.JPGboat2.JPGboat3.JPGboat5.JPGboat5.JPGboat4.JPGboat6.JPG
 
Mike if you're not confident to mod props just sharp and balance it or get one with the prop guys like Andy Brown or Mark Sholund.If your collet doesn't fit the flywheel you may be with the wrong one...The pressure fitting may be threated into the pipe but you can also use one from AEROMARINE that is my personal preference.The best belt for this boat is the small one that Glenn Quarles sells. .your boat looks good!
 
Hello Mike, check and see if you have a metal chip or dirt inbetween flywheel cone and flywheel. You should not be seeing any wobble at all. I drill and tap my pipes for the correct threads, that the pressure fitting has. I then "red" loctite the fitting in place. I rough up the area around the fitting, and mix up a small amount of JB weld and put a layer of JB around the fitting. This has worked for me for 20+years for installing presure fittings. I will let one of the prop gurus answer your other question. Good luck, Richard D
 
Mike,

It looks like an X-440 on the back.

You will need to take some of the cup out

of the trailing edge of that propeller and

remove all the other extra material that you

don't need on it. Remember with these little

boats RPM = Speed and the lighter you can keep

the rotating mass the better for performance.

If you need some help with that propeller just

send it to me and I will help you out. Your boat

turned out very nice.

Thanks For Reading,

Mark Sholund

231.590.3023

email is: [email protected]
 
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I have checked flywheel i ordered right part numbers from zippkits.Also when i go to really tighten collet it pushes so hard against engine bearing that it binds rotation of engine.Not so sure what it is doing is pulling on the crank so hard that it pulls the other end of the crank against the inside bearing?Just checked pics of parts and numbers all right.Guess i may have to call zippkit and see why ring on collet doesnt sit into flywheel unless you sand inside of flywheel a little?
 
The ring on the collet does set inside, but problem being, it hits the brass cone. You need a collet without that lip on it.
 
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hmmm, then I dont know. Mine hit the brass piece inside the flywheel before it would tighten up. Now, im assuming you used a buggy motor (SG style crank) and you cut off the straight shaft section correct? Cut it back to right where the threads start?
 
Mike when you sanded the brass cone that goes in the flywheel (?), did you sand it to fit flush with the flywheel?... Inherently it's oversize to prevent the flywheel from hitting the carb neck on the case.....( and ride on the bearing race only) allowing the collet neck the pinch inside even farther, and binding up the bearing.... dont spin it, run it, etc! something's wrong, and you may have already damaged the front bearing...... i dont have .12 stuff.... somebody send him a new flywheel cone?... Mike
 
sorry maybe i didnt explain it well.I didnt sand the brass flywheel ring i sanded inside front of flywheel so that the collet lip would slip in it the lip is about 1/8 inch.But if i tighten it down good the engine feels bound almost like griddy bearing.but i checked and cleaned motor runs great.Maybe i am wanting to tighten it to much.When i tighten it is pulling on crank pressing inside lobe of crank against the bearing in the motor .I believe causing this.I am going to tear down again tonight and look at collet and flywheel.
 
I believe i found the problem i tore down motor inside engine bearing moves all over and when pushing on it feels real gritty wore out.So i guess i will replace both.I think this was allowing crank to wobble.
 
the over tightening of the flywheel collet is what killed the bearings...if it bound then the bearings were loaded big time in a manner they should never be...most likely it peened the balls and whammo one run bearing smoked...now if the bearing wobbles pay attention to if the crank galled up the case in the induction window area...

alden
 
the over tightening of the flywheel collet is what killed the bearings...if it bound then the bearings were loaded big time in a manner they should never be...most likely it peened the balls and whammo one run bearing smoked...now if the bearing wobbles pay attention to if the crank galled up the case in the induction window area...

alden
tightening down the collet squeezes the small bearing between the crank and the flywheel,flywheel collet, and cable collet assembly,with end clearance at the big bearing. if you tighten the nut to the point that the crank gets tight ,there is something wrong,either the crank is machined wrong,or the case is machined wrong
 
the over tightening of the flywheel collet is what killed the bearings...if it bound then the bearings were loaded big time in a manner they should never be...most likely it peened the balls and whammo one run bearing smoked...now if the bearing wobbles pay attention to if the crank galled up the case in the induction window area...

alden
tightening down the collet squeezes the small bearing between the crank and the flywheel,flywheel collet, and cable collet assembly,with end clearance at the big bearing. if you tighten the nut to the point that the crank gets tight ,there is something wrong,either the crank is machined wrong,or the case is machined wrong
+1
 

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