94 Miss Exide Rebuild

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Mike McKnight

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2005
Messages
1,550
Well my old Exide boat has been sitting on the shelf for a very long time. Here's what she looked like the last year I ran her which was about 7 years ago.



She has kind of storied past going back and forth from California to Washington. She originally started as McIntire Winston/Joe's hull and I think the original builder was a guy named Jim Rogers in 1998? Maybe RCU guys can help me out on that one. In any case my friend Troy Davis bought and brought it here and ran it pretty successfully before he built a Smokin' Joe's. He sold it to Bill Brandt in the early 2000's and he ran it once and it blew over and a vert was lost. I bought it 2004ish and brought it back down here. Troy helped me build a new wing mold and we made a new set of verts for it and it had a partial repaint. I won my first scale race with it and ran it for two years until I had an accident where my throttle servo horn broke and I hit the retaining wall coming into the pits and split the left sponson open at the seam. Oddly enough I taped it back together and went out for the last heat and set a district fast time. I joked about leaving her that way. Well she went on the shelf because I had already built my 89 Circus. She's been sitting there all this time waiting for some love. I pulled it down about 3 months ago and have been slowly stripping it ever since. I wish I had taken more pics of everything I did to her but I'll describe as best I can.

First the sponson repair. After I had it stripped I cut a large rectangular section out of the sponson deck so I could have access to the back of the seam. After I clamped everything back in place I tacked the seam together and then glassed it back in place from the leading edge of the bull nose on the left side to the tip of the sponson and around the outside edge about half way down. One all of that was in place I made a lip with thin sheeted glass around the bottom of the rectangle I had cut in the deck. I then tacked the piece I had cut out back into place. I then filled the seam of the rectangle. After than I sanded flush and continued with the stripping of paint. By the way I should add that this boat had two full paint jobs on it!! I was stunned but it explained why it was heavy. After stripping I overlaid the decks with 5.7 carbon twill. After that cured I trimmed and sanded it down and blended in to the original decks.



Several people have asked my why I do this. It adds an incredible amount of strength to decks that were kind of thin and very flexible without adding very much weight at all. It also takes a lot of flex out of the boat since there wasn't any carbon in the layup.

The next operation was to beef up the wing mounts. The original ones were wood that attached at the bottom of the boat and extended through the deck with a blind nut in the backside to bolt to. As you can imagine the blind nut set up eventually rotted out and they verts weren't very secure. So out came the Dremel and all of wood came out as well as a TON of gobbed in resin I found in the back corners of the boat.After all that was out I installed the under the deck parts of my wings mounts. On the decks are the UHMW blocks that are sanded to match the base of the verts. The verts attach with 4-40 nylon screws.



Next operation was to built a new wing. The old one was so incredibly thick and heavy I can't imagine how the boat even ran. I replaced it with some wing halves from RC Boat Co. The new wing is less than half the thickness and about 1/3 the weight.



I also replaced the gathering plate for the struts. The ball studs screw into a small aluminum plate that itself it bolted into the transom.



Next a little cosmetics. I replaced the turbine exhaust. The original was not secured in very well. I took out the wood backing and replaced it with sheeted CF. The new stainless hot section bolts in.



As I started pulling old parts out of the box I found other things that needed replacing. The old canard flaps were incredibly heavy and need to be replaced. I tacked together two 3" airfoil halves then channeled the leading edge for brass tubing. I cut them down by 1/4" and sanded to shape and filled with resin and micro balloons and glassed over the entire flap. The flaps weigh 1/3 of the originals.



So my original plan was to not have to repaint the ENTIRE boat since I have the original paint codes. But as I got further into it I decided to strip the cowl and verts. The cowl had some small stress cracks and the verts had some chips so I said to heck with it and took em all the way down. The canopy is the only thing that hasn't had to be stripped. So after 2 primer coats...one to fill that was mostly sanded off and the other for base coat...here she sits with all white.



I've already wet sanded and the color will start tomorrow hopefully. I was originally going to take this to a guy near my office that paints hot rods but I have decided to tackle the job myself. In case you are wondering about all the weight she lost, Between paint and all the grinding and parts replacement I am estimating she will end up close to 1.25 to 1.5 lbs lighter than she was. Fully rigged she used to weigh in at 16.75 lbs. The good news it still balances very well. We'll see what happens when I start adding hardware.

More to come.....
 
Nice work Mike, living a similar dream myself at the mo. It's good fun restoring an old boat, there's also a lot of sentimental satisfaction that comes with it as well.
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IMHO, any time you restore a boat and it's better when done than it was when you started, it's a win-win. I'm waiting to see it in Marysville in July
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Who knows, I might have my Muck ready to run by then as well
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That's a trick that I was taught way back when I first started. UHMW is a very dense plastic/nylon material used a lot in cutting boards and similar items. It's pretty dense and needs a metal cutting blade to cut in chunks. It's sandable on a belt sander to shape. You'll need to go over it with some finer grit paper after the rough stuff to get some fuzzies that develop to go away. I should have taken pics of the parts that went in underneath before I installed them. They are carbon tubes that I glassed a 4-40 brass insert into the end of. There are 2 per wing. The tubes get shaped to fit underneath. Then I bolt them in and glass them in place. They are attached on the bottom and top so they do not move. Then the block on the deck is removable if you need to do repairs. It's a pain to have to sand around big fin mounts sticking out of the deck.

It sounds like a lot of work but it isn't really. It's incredibly strong. you can lift the entire boat by the blocks. If you blow it over the nylon screws break and you can back them out of the block with an Xacto. The blocks support the whole base of the vert and don't let it move around putting stress on the nylon screws. That way they break only when they are supposed to. This the 4th boat I have done this on and I really like it.
 
That's a trick that I was taught way back when I first started. UHMW is a very dense plastic/nylon material used a lot in cutting boards and similar items. It's pretty dense and needs a metal cutting blade to cut in chunks. It's sandable on a belt sander to shape. You'll need to go over it with some finer grit paper after the rough stuff to get some fuzzies that develop to go away. I should have taken pics of the parts that went in underneath before I installed them. They are carbon tubes that I glassed a 4-40 brass insert into the end of. There are 2 per wing. The tubes get shaped to fit underneath. Then I bolt them in and glass them in place. They are attached on the bottom and top so they do not move. Then the block on the deck is removable if you need to do repairs. It's a pain to have to sand around big fin mounts sticking out of the deck.

It sounds like a lot of work but it isn't really. It's incredibly strong. you can lift the entire boat by the blocks. If you blow it over the nylon screws break and you can back them out of the block with an Xacto. The blocks support the whole base of the vert and don't let it move around putting stress on the nylon screws. That way they break only when they are supposed to. This the 4th boat I have done this on and I really like it.
Good idea Mike, I'll keep this in mind on my next build.

thanks
 
Hi Mike I remembered that I saw Troy Davis show his beautiful scale Wow at Nats last time . I don't see where is Troy go? or still run namba membership ?
 
Hi Mike I remembered that I saw Troy Davis show his beautiful scale Wow at Nats last time . I don't see where is Troy go? or still run namba membership ?
Hi Allan, Troy has been out of RC boating for a while now. He sold all his stuff off about 4 years ago. He got into running full sized outboards for a while after RC stuff but decided it wasn't for him. I talk to him every once in a while.
 
Ok so I started the color today. Using a new process called Spray Mask. It saves a ton of taping. It comes in rolls and I cut it using my vinyl cutter. It's basically a huge roll of fineline tape. Here is mask only.



Mask and overspray protection



All tape and mask off.



I've mapped out the entire boat with masks for each color to taping should be minimal I hope.
 
Hey Mike .

Lookin' good. Who's mold did this boat come out of?? Some interesting features I haven't seen before. Much to intricate a paint scheme for this olde man's hands and patience, but that is one spiffy looking livery. Heck - I was all out painting my 8255 U-40 Miss Houston with 3 colors - Har, Har !!! Looking forward to seeing her when finished - too painful for me to watch all that work masking and painting. CHEERS !!! Bob

P.S.

I was sent a hunk of the U.H.M.W material a while back, I was going to make some remote fuel metering blocks out of some of it. I'm armed with a band saw, belt sander . and drill press and open to any suggestions as how best to work the material. Thanks in advance.
 
Thanks Bob! Yeah it's a hassle of a paint job. If I had to tape this freehand I wouldn't even consider it but the spray mask material cut with my vinyl cutter makes it much easier. Still a lot of taping to do though. I have the wings all done but I am waiting for another roll of spray mask to arrive today so I can finish the hull. I plan to be ready for clear on Sunday. Yeah this hull started as a McIntire SJ/Winston Eagle 8700 hull much like my Circus did. It originally had the tiplets and canoe extensions but they were removed. The cockpit was also custom fabbed as well. I didn't do any of the work on this one originally. The rear shoes and transom mods are not part of the original hull. Those are custom too to make the 8401 hull.
 
Ok I will be the first to admit that painting is not my first love.....but if I ever see another roll of blue tape it'll be too soon. It's not quite ready for the rest of the decals yet. I need to shoot some intercoat clear before I do the thin blue striping. I definitely have a lot of respect for paint guys after this little project.

 
Lookin good Mike, hope to see you and this boat at the nats, I'll have the rock there

cheers
 
Nice job Mike. Looks awesome. Intricate paint makes the hull twice as nice. I have a Miss US I have been dreading to paint.
 
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