JAE 12 my first wooden boat build

[tmunn]

I have decided to start my 12 JAE and share along the way my steps.I always liked this when others did it so i figure i would give it a go.This is my first ever wooden build and I have seen some ideas here and there and have decided to try them myself.

I will be thinking about making a few changes and building things a bit different here and hope i do not get in doo-doo.with rod...lol...I love what you guys are trying to do with this boat nad i am on the list for a 21...

The main thing I am looking at changing and it's just because I have so many 8mm/5/16 cf tubes would be the .250 solid shafts to the .318 (i think it is) cf tubes.I still have not decided.

Anyway here is how it started and i did both sides at once and they are dead square with the bulkheads and the transom.

 

[opio]

sweet set up! i cant wait to start building mine! there is a list for the .21 already? sheesh i need on that lol

 

[Terry Keeley]

Thanks for sharing!

Doubt 5/16" tubes would be a bad thing compared to 1/4" solid rod, might even be a bit lighter.

Try to build as light as possible without compromising strength, extra gobs of epoxy do nothing but add weight. I like "Monoject 412" to put glue only where I want it:

http://surgical-instruments.salvin.com/Monoject-412-Irrigating-Syringe-pluMONOJECT-412.html

 

[tmunn]

Thanks TK .I know you know your stuff.I have been wearing the 1st place jacket you gave me but explaining to people that i did not win it , you gave it to me.Myabe next year i will win my own...lol..I have some of those syringes here actually from tower hobbies.

Thanks for the glue tip TK i usually apply too much and make extra fillets thinking it will be stronger for WHEN i hit a bouy

The Same length rod in 5/16 is almost have the weigh as what comes with the kit.I figure if i added some brass pass throughs for the tub and some to house the rods in the sponsons i would be around the same weight as the stock tubes.

Like I said i have them here and i would like to use them.Does anyone know if the hollow tubes can be drilled like the solid shafys and use nuts and bolts like the kit suggest ???I know i can get collars fro Gary preuse but i would like to keep this one low budget.

 

[TCHedOff]

Hi Terry,

Yes CF hollow tubes can be drilled out and you can use bolt/nut washer to secure (wrap it in tape first to prevent splitting). I used some 340 arrowshafts Rod gave me. But due to my lousy driving (and other things), I managed to use up all my stock early in the yr. CF splits/cracks fairly easily BTW. Bob Howard on here sent me some Easton A/C/C shafts that were aluminum shafts coated in CF. I found these were stronger... they held up thru a number of impacts and I never did break one of those... the weak point then became the brass inserts in my sponsons, which is fine - something's gotta give when you hit something like the bank at WOT. LOL

 

[Ron Zaker Jr]

I have decided to start my 12 JAE and share along the way my steps.I always liked this when others did it so i figure i would give it a go.This is my first ever wooden build and I have seen some ideas here and there and have decided to try them myself.

I will be thinking about making a few changes and building things a bit different here and hope i do not get in doo-doo.with rod...lol...I love what you guys are trying to do with this boat nad i am on the list for a 21...

The main thing I am looking at changing and it's just because I have so many 8mm/5/16 cf tubes would be the .250 solid shafts to the .318 (i think it is) cf tubes.I still have not decided.

Anyway here is how it started and i did both sides at once and they are dead square with the bulkheads and the transom.

Looks very nice ,great start! Please stay on course with the "design" of the boat,surfaces,overhangs,etc.Tube changing is fine.

 

[tmunn]

The ONLY change I would consider is the boom tubes because i have a lot here , and for the compadability with my hawk and the 21 JAE i will be building.

I have a confession to make ....I did not have my clamps down far enough on the side of the tub and they brought the top of the tub in but the bottom actually pulled out, leaving a 1mm gap that got filled with epoxy at the bottom.After a very careful operation using my razor blade and small exacto knife i was able to de bond the wood and put it back together properly and checking alingment with the supplied square and spaciny at top and bottom of tub sides with my micrometer.This puppy will be straight.

It's all good and the epoxy is setting as I type...

I mixed up some epoxy for the transom doubler as well and that is being glued.

 

[TinoAlmanza]

Hi, another first time builder here. A tip I would like to pass on is when you mount the top deck. I used masking tape to hold the top down which worked peachy except for the transome seam. The slight overhang of the deck bowwed, leaving a gap between the deck and the transome. A piece of weight will fix that. It was an easy fix but one I hope you don't have to make.

 

[tmunn]

good point tino i was curious about that when i read the directions all the way through.

How about a pic of your progress ?

 

[Ron Olson]

Tino, that's where old 12-volt gel cell batteries come in handy. I used 2 of them to hold my deck down while the epoxy cured.

 

[tmunn]

Last night i gued in my tri stock and doubled my rudder area and tonight I sanded the botton of the tub like the directions says ,applied my epoxy and weited it all down.You might be a redneck if you use 12 shotgun shells to hold your tub down on the tub bottom......

oh yeah that is lead shot in the bags too from my old re-loading days....

 

[tmunn]

In case anyone is wondering I weighed how much the 2 solid rods and the aluminum inserts weighed and it was 54g.The weight of the same lengh of 2 extruded CF hollow shafts and the amount of brass needed for the tub pass throughs and the sponson inserts was 56g.

I could be wrong but i would thing the hollow cf would break before the solid fiberglass so I am going to make the change provided there is enough meat around the holes in the front sponsons to be fridded the proper size for the brass inserts.I will have to verify the od.The id is such that the 8mm 5/16") shafts will slide right into them.

 

[tmunn]

Did a lttle more last nigh and today.Just doing it as i feel like it, we are done for the year here where i live and i have lots of time.I am using no CA anywhere but that is just me.

I did decide to use 7/32 brass and leave them 1/2" on each side.I will either drill them and use nuts and bolts inside the tub or outside or use the collars that gary preuse sells or tape or whatever I feel will be the best.If i use collars i will split the brass so the collars can bite on the tubes.

I used my drill press to carefully drill the holes to 7/32 (they were pretty close to the outside of the front boom doublers as well as the front boom tube holes in the tub but I got it to work).

I epoxied the brass in and measured from the top of the table etc...just like the book said.

I used my aluminum angle to bull the sides out straight because once the glue sets it cannot be moved out to the proper width for the front tub bottom plywood.

Nothing on the aoa will change becuse the cnter of the holes have not changed and there will be no additional weight gain becuse the brass i used ended up being shorter than i expected so my weight comparison above will be dead equal at 54g

 

[TinoAlmanza]

Did a lttle more last nigh and today.Just doing it as i feel like it, we are done for the year here where i live and i have lots of time.I am using no CA anywhere but that is just me.

I did decide to use 7/32 brass and leave them 1/2" on each side.I will either drill them and use nuts and bolts inside the tub or outside or use the collars that gary preuse sells or tape or whatever I feel will be the best.If i use collars i will split the brass so the collars can bite on the tubes.

I used my drill press to carefully drill the holes to 7/32 (they were pretty close to the outside of the front boom doublers as well as the front boom tube holes in the tub but I got it to work).

I epoxied the brass in and measured from the top of the table etc...just like the book said.

I used my aluminum angle to bull the sides out straight because once the glue sets it cannot be moved out to the proper width for the front tub bottom plywood.

Nothing on the aoa will change becuse the cnter of the holes have not changed and there will be no additional weight gain becuse the brass i used ended up being shorter than i expected so my weight comparison above will be dead equal at 54g

Looking awsome!

 

[Ron Olson]

Terry, you did what I did butr I used alumium instead just because it matched the tubing in the sponsons. I'm thinking that I could cut the rear tubing off flush with the sides then drill the holes for the bolts or body clips (whatever I finally decide on) in between the engine rails but I'd have to leave the front one sticking out on both sides.

 

[tmunn]

Ron, i hear you .I will figure out my holding method later.I went with brass cause i had it here and i saw what can happen on my hawk when i cut both tubes off when hitting a bouy...lol..They broke flush with the brass..I was not sure the aluminum would hold up and although lighter, my change out added no additional weight, even going up to 5/16 dia and using brass inserts in the sponsons.

Thanks guys

 

[tmunn]

This is not my idea and i hope he does not mind me getting input here but i have been milling it over as i start my sponsons while tub parts are curing.

Instead of having the aluminum or in my case brass tubes in the sponsons go in and butt on the inside of the outer sponson sheating/plywood, actually drill the outer sponson ply out so the brass or aluminum insert could be epoxied in the outer plywood flush with the outside of the sponson.This would give the inserts another solid attachment point and yes you would see the end of your boom tubes but that would only be an esthetic thing.

This would also prevent water from entering sponson via tubes and inserts.BTW anyone using the standard aluminum tubes should epoxy in little thin ply or balsa blugs in the inward prtion of your inserts so the water cannot enter the sponsons..trust me it can migrate up the boom tubes and in the inserts and in the sponson if not sealed properly..

It may not make much sense,,,, but if it held the tubes in place so they could break upon impact Re bouy strike this would be a good thing no???

What do you guys think about this idea ???

 

[tmunn]

Still picking away.I got the front of the rear blanking beveled and then the frot bottom peice installed, both inside and outside sponson sheathing on as well as my ski made.

I will update you guys when I get more done

 

[TCHedOff]

This is not my idea and i hope he does not mind me getting input here but i have been milling it over as i start my sponsons while tub parts are curing.

Instead of having the aluminum or in my case brass tubes in the sponsons go in and butt on the inside of the outer sponson sheating/plywood, actually drill the outer sponson ply out so the brass or aluminum insert could be epoxied in the outer plywood flush with the outside of the sponson.This would give the inserts another solid attachment point and yes you would see the end of your boom tubes but that would only be an esthetic thing.

This would also prevent water from entering sponson via tubes and inserts.BTW anyone using the standard aluminum tubes should epoxy in little thin ply or balsa blugs in the inward prtion of your inserts so the water cannot enter the sponsons..trust me it can migrate up the boom tubes and in the inserts and in the sponson if not sealed properly..

It may not make much sense,,,, but if it held the tubes in place so they could break upon impact Re bouy strike this would be a good thing no???

What do you guys think about this idea ???

 

[tmunn]

Ok it was todd's idea...lol...but i wanted to see if there was any negatives before i did it ...

Todd if you have anymore secrets you better not share them with me..