1982 Pay 'N Pak Turbine

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Please tell me you're going to reverse those rudder bracket screws and use shorter ones. Having screws that long can cause issues later
 
Please tell me you're going to reverse those rudder bracket screws and use shorter ones. Having screws that long can cause issues later
They will not be reversed, but the screws will be cut shorter. There would be no issues with the long screws except that it looks crappy. There is very little room on the inside for nuts, so instead the screws are reversed as the allen cap screw heads are very low profile.
 
I normally use blind nuts rather than standard nuts when it comes to brackets with tight clearances
Blind nuts are Crap for things like rudders & struts,,, they work themselves loose too easily, the metal they are made of is too soft.

And don't spread the load enough for my liking....

I usually make a backing plate to match the dimensions of the rudder/strut mount and drill & tap the plate,,, when I put the boat together after paint, I put a coat of epoxy between the plate & transom and call it done.
 
That's why I don't use the blind nuts you buy at Tower or the LHS. I use stainless steel ones from Seattle Screw since they are much stronger and won't rust out like the Dubro ones will. I also glue them in with epoxy, followed by encapsulating them so that they can't back out without breaking the epoxy. It's all about prop weight and reducing it as much as possible
 
That's why I don't use the blind nuts you buy at Tower or the LHS. I use stainless steel ones from Seattle Screw since they are much stronger and won't rust out like the Dubro ones will. I also glue them in with epoxy, followed by encapsulating them so that they can't back out without breaking the epoxy. It's all about prop weight and reducing it as much as possible

Can you provide a web address for seattle screw please.. I've never been able to locate SS blind nuts smaller that 1/4-20
 
Mark, I have to admit I like Ricks method better. I have been using .135" thick carbon fiber for things like this for a while. Turn fin, fin brackets and inside sponson plate as well as strut brackets and other small items. Light but strong.
 
Got it wrong, it was Tacoma Screw. Looks like they don't carry them anymore either. Either that or I was sold zinc and told it was SS years ago. Still, never had an issue with the ones I bought. Anyhow, the web site is http://www.tacomascrew.com
 
Hey Craig,

I use Dave Brown products - Fiberglass Pushrod System tubes (or a piece of any fiberglass tubing, 1/4" ID) through the transom to drain the after compartment , and a 1/4" hole through the hull bottom in the port rear corner of the engine compartment to drain the forward areas at speed, an after run to pour out any residual water. My hulls a Wood Over Foam using the same Dow Chemical Styrofoam Steve builds into his glass hull for flotation.

Not recommended for FE hulls, Ron. Will cause grey, wispy clouds of expensive smoke. New usage for the term: "KaBoom".

Auto bailers are over rated IMHO. CHEERS !!! Bob

Drain Hole through transom.JPG

Engine and Tank compartments drain hole.JPG

Drain Hole.JPG
 
Hey Craig,

I use Dave Brown products - Fiberglass Pushrod System tubes (or a piece of any fiberglass tubing, 1/4" ID) through the transom to drain the after compartment , and a 1/4" hole through the hull bottom in the port rear corner of the engine compartment to drain the forward areas at speed, an after run to pour out any residual water. My hulls a Wood Over Foam using the same Dow Chemical Styrofoam Steve builds into his glass hull for flotation.

Not recommended for FE hulls, Ron. Will cause grey, wispy clouds of expensive smoke. New usage for the term: "KaBoom".

Auto bailers are over rated IMHO. CHEERS !!! Bob
Thanks, was gonna ask about that.
 
Hey Craig,

The fact that the sponsons and non trip areas are sealed, and Styrofoam is included providing flotation, and additional hull strength, is another benefit of Steve's hulls. Styrofoam will not support the growth of mold and mildew unlike other products. You will only have to be concerned about draining the narrow tub, instead of water that might get out into sponsons and other areas during a run maintaining the hull center of gravity where you want it to be, rather than where the weight of onboard water determines for you, and changes as water sloshes around in open frame bays.

The auto bailers never did particularly well in Florida brackish water, and the fiberglass piece of tubing as drain through the transom simply provides a clean sealed means to drain liquids, without exposing the grain of ply. If you drill the hole through the hull bottom say 3/8", seal it with epoxy, and then drill a 1/4" hole through that epoxy center, fuel will not be able to seep into the plywood, because that penetration is sealed, not a jagged hole drilled through ply/epoxyglass/ polyester hulls. AND - fiberglass tubing is approved for use - K.I.S.S. Principal. CHEERS !!! Bob
 
Got it! Thanks.
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I'm still recovering from a fun weekend of racing boats and beer drinking at the Can-Am race in Hamilton, Canada, so hope to get back on this build soon, like tonight!
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The NLMBC put on a good show!
 
Hey Craig,

Glad to know you have your priorities right - Har, Har !!! I have tried matching beer for beer with Brits and Aussie military members over the years - - the Yanks had NOTHIN' for them.

However. When they came to the US and joined us in our club with our drinks - - Revenge was SWEET !!! They didn't do bourbon well at all, and they sure the Sam Hill weren't drinking American near beer in "Our" house. Har, Har !!! CHEERS !!! Bob
 
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