Pay N Pak

[Hydro Junkie]

Why dont you just build the thing and have fun already?

By the time you get done "thinking" it'l be winter again at the rate your going... :lol: :lol: :lol:

With all the info and discussions posted on two different forums on this particular boat, one would "think" that they would have a good idea of which direction they would go.... :lol: :lol: :lol:

Not to worry, I'll have at least one built before summer. I've already decided to replace the sponsons with Jones sponsons, up to and including the 38/48 widths. I was looking at the sponsons that came with the kit and don't like the look of them at all. I'm also thinking Jones style tails and wing set. That means some modding in the back for the tail mountings. I'm also thinking that instead of the "drain pan" included, I'll go with a full belly pan and not worry about drilling drain holes. Beware, the boat won't be stock

 

[R.J.West]

Heres pics of the real boats sponsons and they look alot like the stock dumas.

 

[Hydro Junkie]

RJ, I was refering to the Eagle on the cowl, tail and sponson changes. I have plans for some minor changes in my Pak sponsons as well, but nothing too drastic

 

[R.J.West]

RJ, I was refering to the Eagle on the cowl, tail and sponson changes. I have plans for some minor changes in my Pak sponsons as well, but nothing too drastic

Oh C'mon and just build the thing already. :lol:

The Eagle I think is a pretty generic looking hull that needs some dressing up to look cool. Although in my opinion I think theres nothing wrong with the stock sponsons on the Eagle, unless your planning on putting 1/8 scale worth of effort into a sport 40 hull....

I'm making changes on my Pak soon too, its called painting..

 

[Hydro Junkie]

Patience is a virtue my young friend. I will have at least one of each done by summer, but as per usual, my patience is being tested by having to wait on parts

 

[Bill Gibson]

RJ, I was refering to the Eagle on the cowl, tail and sponson changes. I have plans for some minor changes in my Pak sponsons as well, but nothing too drastic

Oh C'mon and just build the thing already. :lol:

The Eagle I think is a pretty generic looking hull that needs some dressing up to look cool. Although in my opinion I think theres nothing wrong with the stock sponsons on the Eagle, unless your planning on putting 1/8 scale worth of effort into a sport 40 hull....

I'm making changes on my Pak soon too, its called painting..

The recovery steps are too steep on the Eagle...much easier to fix that as your building the boat than after its finished and painted!If i knew now what i didnt know then.....

 

[R.J.West]

Patience is a virtue my young friend. I will have at least one of each done by summer, but as per usual, my patience is being tested by having to wait on parts

Yeah its funny that an average build would take me around 6 months, most of it is waiting for parts to arrive via mail and watching glue N paint dry.

well today I started sanding my Paks hull and I'm almost finished cutting out the decals from monokote trim sheets. I'll post pics of the decals when finished.

 

[Hydro Junkie]

RJ, I was refering to the Eagle on the cowl, tail and sponson changes. I have plans for some minor changes in my Pak sponsons as well, but nothing too drastic

Oh C'mon and just build the thing already. :lol:

The Eagle I think is a pretty generic looking hull that needs some dressing up to look cool. Although in my opinion I think theres nothing wrong with the stock sponsons on the Eagle, unless your planning on putting 1/8 scale worth of effort into a sport 40 hull....

I'm making changes on my Pak soon too, its called painting..

The recovery steps are too steep on the Eagle...much easier to fix that as your building the boat than after its finished and painted!If i knew now what i didnt know then.....

I take it we agree, Bill. I took one look and determined the sponsons needed to be changed, plain and simple. I was looking at how blocky the sponsons are designed and how poor the aerodynamics and hydrodynamics are. I see no real way to redesign them to rectify the problem so changing is the only real option in my opinion

 

[R.J.West]

What props are you guys running with your Pay N Paks? I remember reading Octura's 1440, 1740 earlier on this thread. Are those the 2 bladed or 3 bladed versions?

 

[Bill Gibson]

What props are you guys running with your Pay N Paks? I remember reading Octura's 1440, 1740 earlier on this thread. Are those the 2 bladed or 3 bladed versions?

RJ, try not to laugh too hard when i tell you that im running a Jimmy Gale prop on mine...i cant remember if its an F or a G-20...did you ever hear of JG props? Thats how old my Pak is..come to think of it...thats how old im am!! :lol:

 

[R.J.West]

Yeah I think the Dumas props are JG copies or made by JG themselves, do you use the two bladed or three bladed one?

 

[Bill Gibson]

Yeah I think the Dumas props are JG copies or made by JG themselves, do you use the two bladed or three bladed one?

Its a 2 blade prop....i would think that a X438, X440, or an X442 would be in the ballpark for that boat...maybe even a 3 blade prop in that range...arent you going to use an OPS SE in your Pak? Great little motor but down a little on power compared to the newer bullets that are out there today...i use an X437/2blade on a sport 20 hydro with a K&B drum rotor 3.5 and it doesnt run bad at all...thats another decent little motor, but doesnt have the horsepower that a newer 3.5 inboard would have. I have another sport 20 hydro with a Mac and its CRAZY FAST compared to my other boat....

 

[Hydro Junkie]

I remember getting the hardware pack for my first Pak back in 1982. It came with a plastic JG prop, hard shaft, garbage skid fin and rudder assemblies and a bushed stuffing box and strut. I was lucky, in a way. Had a roommate that said he was going to help me and put on the prop, squashing the center and distorting it beyond use. Never got to run with it, though I did use it for a guide to buy a similar Octura prop. Not sure to this day if it was the boat being too heavy, engine being a wimp or getting the wrong prop and not realizing it. It might have been newbieism, but I never got it to run worth a ****, just chugged along dragging it's back end the whole time.

 

[R.J.West]

Oh C'mon HJ that dumas turn fin is good for at least poppin off the tabs on a soda can if your nails are too short so they're good for something. :lol:

I have a couple 1740 3 bladed and a 2 blade, a few X640's and a X442. Yeah I have that plastic dumas prop, I think they just put that in there just to make the kit "look" complete. It doesnt even have a slotted hub for the drive dog. I am for now going to use the hard shaft setup and see nothing wrong with it. Its a little bit longer than i need it and I'm going to have to trim off about an inch or so. I did drill and tap the Solinger .21 engine mounts to accept my OPS.21 speed SE and it turned out great! My hull is all finished and sealed up with Zpoxy, and today I sanded it down good with 320 grit paper. I ordered up more Klass-kote & reducer, and it'l be ready for paint when that comes in...I have the pay n pak decals cut from the trimsheet, looking good.

I'm an OPS guy and those are my Go-To engines. Besides I cant afford half a grand on a CMB or Rossi. I know they higher in power but still, half a grand---->

 

[Bill Gibson]

Oh C'mon HJ that dumas turn fin is good for at least poppin off the tabs on a soda can if your nails are too short so they're good for something. :lol:

I have a couple 1740 3 bladed and a 2 blade, a few X640's and a X442. Yeah I have that plastic dumas prop, I think they just put that in there just to make the kit "look" complete. It doesnt even have a slotted hub for the drive dog. I am for now going to use the hard shaft setup and see nothing wrong with it. Its a little bit longer than i need it and I'm going to have to trim off about an inch or so. I did drill and tap the Solinger .21 engine mounts to accept my OPS.21 speed SE and it turned out great! My hull is all finished and sealed up with Zpoxy, and today I sanded it down good with 320 grit paper. I ordered up more Klass-kote & reducer, and it'l be ready for paint when that comes in...I have the pay n pak decals cut from the trimsheet, looking good.

I'm an OPS guy and those are my Go-To engines. Besides I cant afford half a grand on a CMB or Rossi. I know they higher in power but still, half a grand---->

RJ You do your boat anyway you want to do it, but two things to consider.....1) i ran the hardshaft in my Pak and NEVER had any problems with it at all...BUT with the hardshaft setup you have lost the ability to make any strut adjustments which can make a BIG difference with how your boat runs.....2) if you find you want more speed than the OPS offers, check out the TOP 5 port marine engine for 215.00....Thats a SICK low price for a well made, fast little motor!

 

[Hydro Junkie]

I'll be dropping a 5port NR in one, K&B's in at least one, if not two just to compare the two power plants. As Bill said, you can do what you want RJ, but I've had my bad experience with Dumas hardware, never again. I'll be using Speedmaster or making my own just so I know I'll have good quality stuff. I'll also be posting a lot of side-by-side shots to show how much I've changed some of the parts, just for sake of comparison. Needless to say, I'm looking forward to the fun run next summer to see how many differences there are in the way we all build the same kit. Should be fun to see the differences

 

[Bill Gibson]

I'll be dropping a 5port NR in one, K&B's in at least one, if not two just to compare the two power plants. As Bill said, you can do what you want RJ, but I've had my bad experience with Dumas hardware, never again. I'll be using Speedmaster or making my own just so I know I'll have good quality stuff. I'll also be posting a lot of side-by-side shots to show how much I've changed some of the parts, just for sake of comparison. Needless to say, I'm looking forward to the fun run next summer to see how many differences there are in the way we all build the same kit. Should be fun to see the differences

HJ, ive got a TOP 5 port engine in a 20 Hydro i just finished...cant wait to try it out! Ive read and heard lots of positive things about em...ive raced the K&B drum rotor motors in 20 Monos and Sport 20 Hydros and had very good luck with them...never had one break dispite the bad things people say about KABOOMS! :lol: Ive seen far more expenive motors break from time to time, though ill be the first to admit that the newer motors are by far better built, but thats why you pay the dollars! I will play with my ol K&Bs and OPS motors till i run out of parts!

 

[R.J.West]

Hi Bill,

I'm with you 100%. This is what I have to work with for now, however for serious racing later on I do intend to run a .150 or .187 flex drive w/adjustable strut, I've been eyeballin aeromarine. Its that work is very slow right now.

Dumas hardware works, but its more of a hassle to work with than its worth, I know.

 

[Hydro Junkie]

From what I'm understanding about the K&B's, it seems like they fail when the nitro gets too high and the oil gets too low in the mix. I dynamited a 7.5 inboard back in 1989 by running it too lean on the bench, a newbie mistake I won't be making again. Since it was my first time runnign a true marine engine, I had it running at 3/4+ throttle with no load. It really screamed before letting go It should be really interesting to see which boat runs better, the K&B or NR powered boat. I might have to build a boat fairly stock just to see how it compares to a modified build, up to and including Dumas hardware, just to make RJ happy

 

[R.J.West]

Well I still need some little things to finish off my pak. I'm using a OPS .21 SE, I guess I'l give Al Hobbs a hollar and see if theres any 3280 pipes around. But now I need a mount that I can use for the pipe, and I need some plugs. I've heard alot about McCoy's MC9's and O'donells #99 blue I think. What plug do you guys suggest I use in my OPS SE?