x440 vs 1440

[GRoth265]

OK Chris Here's the set up thats been working very well. I have been working with Mark S. and the prop I'm very happy with a 1440 at 39.8mm with 2.57 cup. Set the boat on a flat board with the lower (bulge) for the shaft even with the top of the board. Set the angle at 0 degrees and run the boat. You may need to change the motor angle + or- 1/2 degree but no more. We have run this setup on the Lynx, nemisis,Jd wof and TS2 with good success. Use lead for the final trim when the boat want's to blow off. The OS is running on 60% nitro with no head shim and restricted water. When the OS (second stages you will know it) Try this you won't be sorry. By the way the boat may cavitate off the launch but hooks up after about 50 feet. Its common for the boat to bounce at lower speed but should lay down when you open it up and the motor ( stages) Greg. OK guy's tell me I'm full of it :lol:

 

[FlyinFinn]

OK Chris Here's the set up thats been working very well. I have been working with Mark S. and the prop I'm very happy with a 1440 at 39.8mm with 2.57 cup. Set the boat on a flat board with the lower (bulge) for the shaft even with the top of the board. Set the angle at 0 degrees and run the boat. You may need to change the motor angle + or- 1/2 degree but no more. We have run this setup on the Lynx, nemisis,Jd wof and TS2 with good success. Use lead for the final trim when the boat want's to blow off. The OS is running on 60% nitro with no head shim and restricted water. When the OS (second stages you will know it) Try this you won't be sorry. By the way the boat may cavitate off the launch but hooks up after about 50 feet. Its common for the boat to bounce at lower speed but should lay down when you open it up and the motor ( stages) Greg. OK guy's tell me I'm full of it :lol:

Like he said! :blink: Greg, you've definitely summed up the set-up FOR and behavior of the 2.57 cupped Sholund prepared Octura 1440 prop on a .21 tunnel. Now,.....back to the pond you tester-guy you!

 

[SayMikey]

OK Chris Here's the set up thats been working very well. I have been working with Mark S. and the prop I'm very happy with a 1440 at 39.8mm with 2.57 cup. Set the boat on a flat board with the lower (bulge) for the shaft even with the top of the board. Set the angle at 0 degrees and run the boat. You may need to change the motor angle + or- 1/2 degree but no more. We have run this setup on the Lynx, nemisis,Jd wof and TS2 with good success. Use lead for the final trim when the boat want's to blow off. The OS is running on 60% nitro with no head shim and restricted water. When the OS (second stages you will know it) Try this you won't be sorry. By the way the boat may cavitate off the launch but hooks up after about 50 feet. Its common for the boat to bounce at lower speed but should lay down when you open it up and the motor ( stages) Greg. OK guy's tell me I'm full of it :lol:

Like he said! :blink: Greg, you've definitely summed up the set-up FOR and behavior of the 2.57 cupped Sholund prepared Octura 1440 prop on a .21 tunnel. Now,.....back to the pond you tester-guy you!

Chris id raise the motor to unload it just as Grim Says. My Villian would bury the nose till i raised the motor almost 1/4 above the sponson. Ive run both props and have 6-8 x440s but prefer the 1440 Anderson prop from Gary Preusse ........Mike

 

[chriscrash]

Chris id raise the motor to unload it just as Grim Says. My Villian would bury the nose till i raised the motor almost 1/4 above the sponson. Ive run both props and have 6-8 x440s but prefer the 1440 Anderson prop from Gary Preusse ........Mike

That's what I've done now. I have always tried to stay around an 1/8" or less thinking that would be the best for boat stability. Well I have changed that way of thinking, and the center shaft is around 1/4" or more now and I am using a little weight in the nose to keep from blowing off. I've got a huge increase in speed over last year.

Hopefully it will run well in Evansville.

Thanks,

Chris

 

[Gaztech]

Chris .... What kind of cup is on the 1440 Anderson prop from Gary Preusse ?? As my TS2 with 3.3 cup does the hop also :unsure:

Thanx Gaz

 

[chriscrash]

Gaz

I am only running the Mark Sholund props. X-440, X-438, M-440, X-440 -3 , X-438-3, and The 1440 Grim.

I Think Saymikey is running the other guys props. Maybe he will respond to this post

 

[VansRacing]

Seriously? I've never seen stuffing on launches except for Villains, and that was launch technique. I'm not doubting you man - (never would) but thats totally opposite to what I have been getting - maybe it's 'cos I'm "down under" - toilet swirls the other way etc. etc.
First cupped 1440 for O/B's I got was an Anderson cupped one I got from my bud TunnelBill, and he suggested that I lower the motor with it. Well being the wise-a55 I am I just had to try it without lowering it and thought to myself - man this prop sucks! Lowered it like I should have done in the first place and holy s#it - what a difference!

I've tried this swap on at least six different boats and always ended up lower than the X series or I got bouncing and prop blow-out in the straights which washed off speed...... both "sport" and piped boats too. The 1440 has a lot more L/E pitch than the X440 or M440, and L/E pitch = speed but it also = lift.

I set the height by starting low & raising it until I get porpoising/ and venting in the straights which washes off speed, then back it down a tad from there. Using that method I usually end up 1/16" to 1/8" lower with the 1440's and going faster.... but I really prefer to heat race with the X series or the ABC 40x53 as they are more heat race friendly and less likely to DNF. Definately slower than 1440's tho'.

Guys,

I don't want to cause what Rod calls "A C.F. Firestorm" but the last 5 times we broke the 3.5cc Stock 2-lap record, we were using a 4053. As Tim said, it is a very race friendly prop (for the stock 3.5cc engines). Low DNF's and good lap times.

 

[Dale0]

Seriously? I've never seen stuffing on launches except for Villains, and that was launch technique. I'm not doubting you man - (never would) but thats totally opposite to what I have been getting - maybe it's 'cos I'm "down under" - toilet swirls the other way etc. etc.
First cupped 1440 for O/B's I got was an Anderson cupped one I got from my bud TunnelBill, and he suggested that I lower the motor with it. Well being the wise-a55 I am I just had to try it without lowering it and thought to myself - man this prop sucks! Lowered it like I should have done in the first place and holy s#it - what a difference!

I've tried this swap on at least six different boats and always ended up lower than the X series or I got bouncing and prop blow-out in the straights which washed off speed...... both "sport" and piped boats too. The 1440 has a lot more L/E pitch than the X440 or M440, and L/E pitch = speed but it also = lift.

I set the height by starting low & raising it until I get porpoising/ and venting in the straights which washes off speed, then back it down a tad from there. Using that method I usually end up 1/16" to 1/8" lower with the 1440's and going faster.... but I really prefer to heat race with the X series or the ABC 40x53 as they are more heat race friendly and less likely to DNF. Definately slower than 1440's tho'.

Guys,

I don't want to cause what Rod calls "A C.F. Firestorm" but the last 5 times we broke the 3.5cc Stock 2-lap record, we were using a 4053. As Tim said, it is a very race friendly prop (for the stock 3.5cc engines). Low DNF's and good lap times.

Carl you have mail