Scratch outrigger build.

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Hey Terry well I have my 90 size rigger moving along pretty well if interested you can find it under Scratch build 90 size Outrigger. Trying to get it caught up to my 21 size rigger. Well now for Nothern New York good ole mother nature has definetly said that boating season is officially closed until April now since we just got dumped on here a couple of days ago with about 10 inches of snow. Once I can get some more work done I'll give an update on the progress. see ya Dave
Looks good Dave, kinda fun doin' your own thing isn't it? That strut set-up is kewl but you might want to re-consider the rudder mount... ;)
 
Looks good guys,

Boat building is alot of work but i don't mind it.. I used to hate it but i now enjoy it..

There is alot to what i call " detail work " in these things that people just don't see or look for.. never the less it is still rewarding to see someone's boat run well that you built or your own for that matter.

Dave,

What thickness material did you use to sheet your tub and sponsons with??

chris
 
Looks good guys,
Boat building is alot of work but i don't mind it.. I used to hate it but i now enjoy it..

There is alot to what i call " detail work " in these things that people just don't see or look for.. never the less it is still rewarding to see someone's boat run well that you built or your own for that matter.

Dave,

What thickness material did you use to sheet your tub and sponsons with??

chris

For the tub I used 1/4 plywood (5 ply) and for the sponsons I used 3/32plywood for the bottom of the tub I used 1/16 and I have a sheet of 1/16 I am going to use for the top. I haven't been able to do any work waiting on the UPS man to deliver my order of wood so I can continue. Thanks for asking Dave
 
Hey Terry well I have my 90 size rigger moving along pretty well if interested you can find it under Scratch build 90 size Outrigger. Trying to get it caught up to my 21 size rigger. Well now for Nothern New York good ole mother nature has definetly said that boating season is officially closed until April now since we just got dumped on here a couple of days ago with about 10 inches of snow. Once I can get some more work done I'll give an update on the progress. see ya Dave
Looks good Dave, kinda fun doin' your own thing isn't it? That strut set-up is kewl but you might want to re-consider the rudder mount... ;)

It is a pretty wild design for the strut/rudder assembly, but the rod they use for the rudder is 5/8 at the base and where the rudder is attached it is about 9/16 dia and it used 1/4x20 bolts to hold it all together. I have tugged on the rudder and it is pretty sturdy shouldn't give to much under pressure. Definetly a little different build compared to the 21 rigger I am building considering the engine I am putting in the boat. I have never ran an OPS 90 yet have 4 Picco 90's they are nice little power houses, but since Picco isn't building marine engine any more I am trying to switch over to engine that have repair parts available. Once I get more work done I post more pics of both riggers. Dave
 
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Terry, interested in knowing what the Endura is please. Paint, sealer? Thanks again for the great pictures of your build. Very nice project. Richard D
It's a 2 part polyurethane similar to Imron but 1/3rd the price. Nothing touches it once fully cured, I mean nothing, not laquer thinner, pure nitro, battery acid, nothing. I've painted many boats, my trailer and my shop and garage floors with it. :)

http://www.endura.ca/
 
Terry, interested in knowing what the Endura is please. Paint, sealer? Thanks again for the great pictures of your build. Very nice project. Richard D
It's a 2 part polyurethane similar to Imron but 1/3rd the price. Nothing touches it once fully cured, I mean nothing, not laquer thinner, pure nitro, battery acid, nothing. I've painted many boats, my trailer and my shop and garage floors with it. :)

http://www.endura.ca/
Terry, which primer do you use. I see they list several primers. Do you shoot clear over the color coat? Thanks, Richard
 
Terry, interested in knowing what the Endura is please. Paint, sealer? Thanks again for the great pictures of your build. Very nice project. Richard D
It's a 2 part polyurethane similar to Imron but 1/3rd the price. Nothing touches it once fully cured, I mean nothing, not laquer thinner, pure nitro, battery acid, nothing. I've painted many boats, my trailer and my shop and garage floors with it. :)

http://www.endura.ca/
Terry, which primer do you use. I see they list several primers. Do you shoot clear over the color coat? Thanks, Richard

Rigger looking good Terry, I wish I could be doing some painting, but I have to wait for the weather to change so I can get back into my paint area. No heater installed. Dave
 
Terry, interested in knowing what the Endura is please. Paint, sealer? Thanks again for the great pictures of your build. Very nice project. Richard D
It's a 2 part polyurethane similar to Imron but 1/3rd the price. Nothing touches it once fully cured, I mean nothing, not laquer thinner, pure nitro, battery acid, nothing. I've painted many boats, my trailer and my shop and garage floors with it. :)

http://www.endura.ca/
Terry, which primer do you use. I see they list several primers. Do you shoot clear over the color coat? Thanks, Richard

I use their "EP-FD Epoxy Primer", one coat, sand completely off with 220, another coat and sand with 320. The colours are very glossy and don't need clear over them except the fluorescents that I use need clear (and white underneath).
 
Terry, interested in knowing what the Endura is please. Paint, sealer? Thanks again for the great pictures of your build. Very nice project. Richard D
It's a 2 part polyurethane similar to Imron but 1/3rd the price. Nothing touches it once fully cured, I mean nothing, not laquer thinner, pure nitro, battery acid, nothing. I've painted many boats, my trailer and my shop and garage floors with it. :)

http://www.endura.ca/
Terry, which primer do you use. I see they list several primers. Do you shoot clear over the color coat? Thanks, Richard

I use their "EP-FD Epoxy Primer", one coat, sand completely off with 220, another coat and sand with 320. The colours are very glossy and don't need clear over them except the fluorescents that I use need clear (and white underneath).
Thanks for the info Terry. Hope you include some pics of your new boat finished. Richard D
 
Terry, interested in knowing what the Endura is please. Paint, sealer? Thanks again for the great pictures of your build. Very nice project. Richard D
It's a 2 part polyurethane similar to Imron but 1/3rd the price. Nothing touches it once fully cured, I mean nothing, not laquer thinner, pure nitro, battery acid, nothing. I've painted many boats, my trailer and my shop and garage floors with it. :)

http://www.endura.ca/
Terry, which primer do you use. I see they list several primers. Do you shoot clear over the color coat? Thanks, Richard

I use their "EP-FD Epoxy Primer", one coat, sand completely off with 220, another coat and sand with 320. The colours are very glossy and don't need clear over them except the fluorescents that I use need clear (and white underneath).
Thanks for the info Terry. Hope you include some pics of your new boat finished. Richard D
You're welcome and I sure will, works got me a little busy right now but I should be able to start assembly soon... :)
 
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Terry how do you attach the booms to the sponsons, it looks like the booms are one piece from the tub and bolted to the sponsons on the outside of the sponsons?

I never liked having a bolt between the tub and sponsons.
 
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Terry how do you attach the booms to the sponsons, it looks like the booms are one piece from the tub and bolted to the sponsons on the outside of the sponsons?I never liked having a bolt between the tub and sponsons.

Ya, me too, never liked the "tube in a tube" concept.

They're held on just like you say. A threaded insert is glued into the end of each tube, I make them on my lathe with a 4-40 inside thread and 10-32 outside for solid CF rods, or 1/4-20 for these hollow tubes. You could just glue in a"coupling nut" without threading the outside but I think the threads hold better.

The tube in the sponson has a little brass stop soldered inside with stay-brite and a hole for a #4 screw. The sponson is bolted on from the outside. I do this with all my boats including my 60 heat boat with no problems. :)

For the sponsons in the pix the stop is right in the middle of the sponson so they can go on either side, ie: there's no left or right, they're all the same...
 
Great Idea! Thanks

I really like the the no right or left sponson idea.

Do you think it will enough support on a 2" wide SAW sponson?
 
Great Idea! ThanksI really like the the no right or left sponson idea.

Do you think it will enough support on a 2" wide SAW sponson?
I know it will support. :rolleyes: Those sponsons in the pix are 2" wide.

A little trick I came up with to locate the stop is to turn the brass so that it's a slip fit in the tube (K&S tubing is a couple thou oversize), then turn another piece of stock (aluminum or whatever) with a shoulder at the right distance to place the stop where it's needed. Put the stop in the tube, push it into place with the "locator", remove the locator and solder it in place.

I use a torch set very low with a little flux, if you just touch the solder where it's needed you'll get a nice clean joint. Clean with baking soda and water to neutralize the flux and you're ready to glue them in the sponsons. :)
 
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Great stuff Terry and I love the fluorecent paint , even

an old guy like myself can see that on the water.

Tim K
 
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