Riggers from Japan

[Hammerhead]

Rerehistoric outriggers

David! Thanks for dropping in! The angle of aluminum that you see from the turnfin boom to the tub, is a support. It keeps the turn fin parallel to the tub.

I will send you the pics of the mold now. I sent them to Tom, too. I was hoping that he would post them, but I guess he is busy.

Hammer

 

[Hammerhead]

Rerehistoric outriggers

Does anybody tape there sponsons on to the sponson booms like I do. I want to use bolts but the bolts ruin my sponson arms. I would like to find some meshed carbon pipes for my sponson arms, but I can only get the grafite ones over here. The grafite ones spit if you drill holes in them. >

 

[TomMoorehouse]

Rerehistoric outriggers

hey hammer... been spending a lot of time getting my fishing boat ready

anyways... i've taped my dumas hawk sponsons on for the left side... for the right I use clamps.

here are some pics of my hawks clamps and tape:

Here are the Pics Hammer sent in for his mold....

 

[Hammerhead]

Rerehistoric outriggers

Those look a little heavy for a .21. Do the make them in mm sizes? My sponson arm tubes are epoxied into the sponsons and the tub. The nose of my boat is filled with

foam. That makes a good support for the epoxy

Thanks for the idea. I will show my buddy these pics and see if he can make some for my .45 that I'm starting on. ;D

Hammer

 

[ahazbin]

Rerehistoric outriggers

Hammer, thanks for the quick reply, and pictures.

Actually I meant the piece of angle that runs fore and aft on the left side on top of the booms. I see them on several boats, and they vary in position. Some are closer to the tub than others. It almost looks like they are held on with wire ties.

 

[Hammerhead]

Rerehistoric outriggers

Oh! Now I know what you mean. Those are brackets that we use to bolt on our color plates. In Japan, we use 6cmx6cm colored abs plates to distinguish difference when we are racing. When I was in Guam, We used about the same sized plate that was black and had a yellow number on it. In Japan, we race 6 boats at a time, so we use 6 colors, red, black, yellow green, white, and blue( with the blue plate, there is a white dot in the middle to make it easier to distinguish from black. Sorry about the misunderstanding. I hope this answers your question. If it is another misunderstanding. let me know. I will try to figure it out.

Thanks for the post, Hammer

 

[ahazbin]

Rerehistoric outriggers

Hammer,

That is a good idea. I've been racing monos which are a little easier to see. Looks like your yellow and red combination would stand out pretty good! Thanks, David.

 

[Hammerhead]

Rerehistoric outriggers

The problem over here is that almost everyone paints their boats some kind of yellow. Especially the riggers. Of course yellow is the easiest color to see when racing, but when everyone is yellow and your in a dead heat this can be real confusing :-. I did some playing around before with some flourecent red and yellow, and got a color that really stood out. I painted my AC model wave slave with it. I used a silver base coat. I wanted to make another batch of it for my Hammerhead 90, but the company that made those colors went out of business. :'(. Most of the Japanese racers aren't so concerned about the quality of art that their boats become. Most of them only use their boats for a few races before the get tired of them, or destroy them. Rather than the compliments that one would expect to recieve for their efforts in painting, I usually get the "Why bother" statement. I guess it's that American Pride thing that still floats around in my blood system.

Thanks for the comments, and keep them rollin'

Hammer 8)

 

[ahazbin]

Rerehistoric outriggers

Wow, that's a different attitude. Maybe with the throw away attitude they have towards the boat I could understand not doing a fancy paint job. But there again I would want a boat to last a bit longer. And, like you, take pride in what I have created, and want it to look the best I can. Is there just not that much to to in the evening? I generally use flourescent orange on my boats. It's on the bottom. The way I drive, after I've flipped, it's a bit more visible and hopefully I don't get run over. :'( Is there much in the way of gas powered boats, or is it mainly nitro?

David

 

[Hammerhead]

Rerehistoric outriggers

The companies who deal with the gas powered boats have competitions with gas classes. The JMPBA doesn't have a class for them in heat racing, yet. Maybe in the next few seasons, we will see them add one, because they are getting more and more popular.

The JMPBA does sponsor a class for gas boats in the 12km offshore race. Those boats are very big and they are designed for very rough water, so I don't think they would be practical for heat racing. The most popular engines are the Quick Draw and the Mathe 35cc engines.

I will send you a pic of the boat my friend is try to dump off on me. You will see what I mean by big (and ugly)

Check your mail, and post what you think. Thanks Hammer

 

[TimD]

Rerehistoric outriggers

Hey Hammer,

You mentioned in an earlier about drilling holles through carbon tubes. What we do is use the Fiberglass tubes from advanced composites - and use a sharp drill bit! very strong and stiff.

Tim.

 

[Hammerhead]

Rerehistoric outriggers

Can you get them in mm sizes?

I have used them before, but these days they are'nt available here. :'(

Thanks for the input.

 

[Eric]

Rerehistoric outriggers

I must say this is a very interesting thread by Hammerhead. And great source of info for the contruction and materials.

Coming from Singapore, we've seen most of the boats from Europe(Mantua, Teedo, Tornado, etc), USA/NAmerica(Seaducer, Leecraft O/B, Bandit, etc), as well as some Japanese(KNK, ABC, Ofuna). Most of these are monos, and cats, in the 3.5 to 7.5cc range.

Hydros and outriggers are rare here due to the small size of ponds we run in. We just lost another pond and are running 'illegally' in quarries and assorted public park ponds.

I have personally always run hydros and seen outriggers from both the USA and Japan. But I wonder if anyone can shed some light on what the Europeans use? What is the FSR-H class like? Tried the links from naviga.org, but not much info on hydros, anyone from Europe to give some lowdown on the hydro scene there?

 

[Hammerhead]

Rerehistoric outriggers

Got me Eric. I guess I will leave it to someone from Europe to answer your question. You mentioned Ofuna.

I'm very good friends with the owner. He is dealing mostly in large off-shore stuff now. Wanna good mono for small places,I would recommend the ACmodel Comp 30 or the Wave Slave. I would stay away from the Magnums, The are really fast in the straights and go crazy in the turns.

Thanks for the compliments on my forum ;D,

Hammerhead

 

[TimD]

Rerehistoric outriggers

Hammer,

Any reason for needing the tubes in milimetres? I can't find them in metric at all so far. Maybe a fishing rod company could help you out ???

I think the FSR-H riggers are pretty much the same as what is used in the US and here in Australia. I had heard that in some European countries the sponsons are wider apart like the Japanese riggers.

Does anyone out there play with tethered hydro's any more? Always been into R/C myself. Just curious!

 

[ahazbin]

Rerehistoric outriggers

Hammer,

I replied to your e-mail address Sunday night with some pictures. Did you ever get them? David

 

[Hammerhead]

Rerehistoric outriggers

I replied, Finally ;D. Sorry for the delay. Nice looking boats. Would you like an idea? Well, reguardless, I'm going to give it to you anyway.

In my mono boats, for floatation. I do something a little different than anyone else. I noticed that you had rolled blue foam tucked under the side decking. What I do is, I take a mountain bike inner-tube and cut it. I cut it about 2 or 2 and a half inches away from the valve. Then I fold each end over 2 times with rubber raft repair glue. After I do that. I use nylon belt anti-fray ends and clamp them on to the ends to keep them from unfolding and I just leave them on after the glue dries. then I thread the tube under the decking sides, and all the way around the bow. When it is in place, I pump it up. It will fill up the whole bow hollow and under the side decking too. I've never had one go flat since I started doing it, and I have never had to go fishing for a sunk boat. When you want to clean up your boat, just let the air out of it, and pull it out. wipe all the Nitro off it, and it will last for as long as your boat.

Hammerhead

 

[Hammerhead]

Rerehistoric outriggers

Thanks for the help Tim. I need the mm sizes, because I epoxied the outer tubes into the hull. If hadn't already done that, then inches would be fine.

I'm still waiting patiently to see the pics of your SG when you are finished painting it.

Hammer

 

[ahazbin]

Rerehistoric outriggers

The inner tube is a very good tip. Actually the blue is what a called a pool noodle. It is a 3" dia. piece of foam that is a swiming pool toy for kids. That, and a 2 liter soft drink bottle under the deck help to keep it afloat. David

 

[TimD]

Rerehistoric outriggers

The pool noodles work very well in mono's - been using them for years and they are light and don't absorb water. The bike inner tube is interesting - what about using a bladder from an inflatable ball? No big valve on it! Another thing you can use is an empty plastic soft drink bottle with a lid on it.

Hammer, The stuffing tube went in this week - nearly ready for painting! I will send you the pic's as promised!

Tim.