Piston & Sleeve Removal

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WOWSERS!!! That looks amazing man! Might have to get me a crock pot and some antifreeze! I could see this being a good end of season thing for all motors!
 
Glad to see success! Yep, the antifreeze trick is one of the best, the only thing is that there are health hazards to it. The enviromentally friendly stuff don't work, so you have to go with the poisonous green stuff. Just keep your head off the fumes. The best way to do it is just trust the time factor of 24 hours or so, and zip in to shut it off and let it cool so there's no more steam when you pop the lid. You can always throw it back in if you feel it needs it after scrubbing a bit.

It doesn't brighten brass like flywheels and such, but it sure gets the crud off to have an easy time dunking in gun cleaner or straight to buffing for them kind of parts. The crock pot kills old castor in its tracks pretty good. Still has a hard time getting past carbon deposits though, but gun cleaner eats through that if left long enough. It's good there are not very many parts to worry about in that department though.

About the con rod clearance, your probably going to find more now that it is cleaned. Two grand clearance isn't excessive...I've felt rods that were pretty dang loose before and still ran OK. I would pick up a spare rod, wrist pin and safety keeper clips, and after you run in your new bearings and re-seat the piston and you have the carb tuned, go ahead and slip in the new parts and you should be good to go. A good idea also is run some castor oil with your mix if your not running some already just to get it past the rebuild so it adds some cushion while everything re-seats, but remember my ideas aren't gospel, so others might have different thoughts on that.

There are methods of taking up a little room on an old rod, but theres risk of it loosing its bushing when run. The trick there is using a small punch with a VERY gradual taper, almost pin sharp and dotting a few peen marks at the lower right hand side of the diameter into the rod knuckle....directly opposite from where the bushing does all its work. If you go with too blunt of a punch, the peen only is "surface" expanded at the outer lip of the bushing...the center will still be large....trick is to go deep with the distortion.

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being an auto tech, i have always used automotive cleaners/degreasers for my motors. after seeing this trick, i know what i'll being using now. the results are amazing! thanx, jetpack for sharing.
 
Always willing to share! Just remember the safety issues involved :)

I've done several used motors this way now and have all the pains worked out, so I felt it was safe to share without too many people hitting any kind of big bumps in the road.

I've only shared bits and pieces that I've picked up along the way with this and added my own experiences, so I tried to lay it out in a simple manner with everything covered. If you stay within the details it can bring a motor back to a clean, new condition minus any wear and a pleasure to work with when bringing it back up to running. That is something which is always welcome.
 
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Jetpack, if it had not been for you, I would have probably junked the case and bought a new one for $70+. For $17, I saved the case and learned a new trick, outstanding! :D
 
buying used motor $200-$250

Antifreeze $7 -$10

Using the crock pot you just got her for mothers day to clean your motor $30- $40

the look on your face ,when she runs over your boat with the car on fathers day and Says "Here"s your new car ramp dear" PRICELESS!!!
 
buying used motor $200-$250

Antifreeze $7 -$10

Using the crock pot you just got her for mothers day to clean your motor $30- $40

the look on your face ,when she runs over your boat with the car on fathers day and Says "Here"s your new car ramp dear" PRICELESS!!!

HI ALL,

What a Crock Pot? can't wait to try it!
 
I just hope I'm not filling up the hospital's EMERGENCY ROOM suggesting this! Don't forget, it only takes a miniscule amount of anti-freeze to shut your kidney's and liver down, and using the crock pot for a vaporizer IS NOT a very good idea. Your lungs are the most efficient method for it to get in your bloodstream - don't do it.

< DO ALL THIS OUTSIDE AND BE CAREFULL >

< RESPECT THE WARNINGS ON THE ANTIFREEZE CONTAINER >
 
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Interesting method of cleaning. I still believe that not letting your engine or other boat hardware get to the point where you would need to take these measures is the best bet.

If I may add, a good way to get a sleeve out with out damaging anything is, wad up a piece of paper towel, stuff it into the top of the cylinder with the piston all the way down and turn the engine over by hand with the flywheel. The sleeve will pop right out. I don't know if this will work with an engine that badly neglected, though.

Just my 2 cents, Hammer
 
Do you mean stuff the wad of paper towel so it catches the ports? Thats a good way to do it too...paper never hurts anything, and I'm sure the edge of the piston is never that sharp where it would act like a paper punch and just shear it before it moves the sleeve.

I would never let my engines get that gooped up before I thought about cleaning them, or looking into the problem of WHY they are getting that bad, but second hand motors can sometimes be even worse than klr95ss. Check out that Webra 61 I bought from England that I have in my picture album. You would GASP. This is where the anti-freeze is a must for any kind of work to it. I didn't even move any screws before I cooked it for a few hours. I just made sure the plastic carb slide plate was taken off, and dumped it in and worked out as much air as I could that was inside the motor.

It not only had baked on castor, but had RTV smears everywhere, and was badly pitted black in some areas. Suprisingly, the internals were in not that bad of shape. Seeing all that baked on castor oil helped me have confidence in what the seller was saying about it's decent running condition. I was glad to see everything was decent once I popped the rotor housing. B) You can see more of the insides at the MySpace link.
 
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