Pinckert Coyote, Long Wheelbase

[Sean Wills]

The woven carbon tubes look nice but you will get thicker side walls with the pultruded tubes. Very Stiff and strong. If you order fro ACP Composites be prepared to wait.

 

[David Bryant]

The woven carbon tubes look nice but you will get thicker side walls with the pultruded tubes. Very Stiff and strong. If you order fro ACP Composites be prepared to wait.

thanks. So ACP Composites has long order time?

 

[Jeff Lutz]

I'm gearing-up to finally build a brand-new in-box legacy Pinckert Coyote .67/.80 outrigger kit. I purchased this custom built kit from Don back in October 1987, and has sat in my garage since. It will be powered by a brand-new in-box (1987) Andy Brown modded Rossi .80, or possibly a brand-new Picco .67 Silver head (both engines share the same mount dimensions). It's an extremely nicely built boat.

I was analyzing the "old-school" dampened motor-mount assembly. It has two 1/4 inch aluminum plate sections, drilled and tapped to engine dimensions. The aluminum sections are also drilled and tapped to accept four each rubber dampeners. Each aluminum section is secured to a single solid oak hardwood wedge base. The oak wedge is then epoxied to the floor of the engine compartment. Bolts are then inserted thru the hull bottom, up through the oak base and thread into the bottom portion of each rubber isolator. Looking closely at the oak base it's sligthly warped (not sure if this is an issue?)

However I'm not sure whether I should use this engine mount assembly? Or whether to just use a current design isolated side-wall based mount? I believe this hull fuselage is built with 5 inch sidewalls (I'll have to measure precisely). Who is the best source for a new current sidewall-based engine mount? Andy Brown? Aeromarine?

(sorry for double post)

I built one of those boats in 1985 with a rossi 80. Threw that mount away and made a new one for the boat using the rubbers from the mount. The mount I made when on to be the design that is used today. Bill McGraw saw the mount and ask if he could copy it. I removed the mount from the boat at the race and handed it to him and we made the drawing of the mount and I put it back in the boat for the next round. Set a new oval record at the 1986 Internats with that boat and a turn fin that Doc Turner layed out that Pinkert copied that has gone on to be the base line that all fins are made by. Also we had a very new style timing system design that we still use today at records trails. It was the first time that system was used at the Internats. Sold the boat a few years later but was able to get it back and I still got the boat today.I know a lot of boats use that style of mount and they work great in monos. They were made to replace the Octure 5" mount. I have since been using the Andy Brown style mount that has two aluim. rails with rubber thru the tub side and nylon bolts. But have been using derlin for the rail for a total plastic mount.

Here are a few images of a brand-new Coyote .67/.80 outrigger, purchased directly from Don Pinckert (back in 1988). Finally starting construction. Will be powered by a brand-new Rossi R80 Marine drum-valve.
Hull looks to be 41in in length overall. I'm very impressed with build quality, exceptionally clean.

I'm thinking, at this point, I will probably use the unique oak wooden-wedge motor-mount design, looks pretty cool (I think). Will machine aluminum mounting plates to fit other current engines as well.

Plan to replace aluminum boom tubes with carbon fibre counterparts. The aluminum tubes included are .625 dia and .500 dia.. I need some input on available equivalent carbon-fibre tubes?

I'm using .250 dia cable, need info on source for brass tubing shaft log, are there thick-wall available for this?

Thanks,

Dave

. It is true as some have mentioned that those rubbers were designed to be mounted vertically in the field they were designed for which was not model boats. However, Eric canto was correct when he told you that mount will vibrate bad. He ran many Pinckert boats and so did I. I converted some mounts to use the rubbers through the hull sides (horizantal) and it worked far better than through the bottom of the boat. Don Pinckert himself even dislikes that mount. If you want to run that mount on rails through the bottom (vertical) you will be better off using a solid mount. (I'm not kidding). The best would be to use the grommets in the hull side like Andy Brown's but with six total instead of four like others mentioned. That is what I now use on my custom built boats. I can post a picture later, if you would like.

 

[David Bryant]

I'm gearing-up to finally build a brand-new in-box legacy Pinckert Coyote .67/.80 outrigger kit. I purchased this custom built kit from Don back in October 1987, and has sat in my garage since. It will be powered by a brand-new in-box (1987) Andy Brown modded Rossi .80, or possibly a brand-new Picco .67 Silver head (both engines share the same mount dimensions). It's an extremely nicely built boat.

I was analyzing the "old-school" dampened motor-mount assembly. It has two 1/4 inch aluminum plate sections, drilled and tapped to engine dimensions. The aluminum sections are also drilled and tapped to accept four each rubber dampeners. Each aluminum section is secured to a single solid oak hardwood wedge base. The oak wedge is then epoxied to the floor of the engine compartment. Bolts are then inserted thru the hull bottom, up through the oak base and thread into the bottom portion of each rubber isolator. Looking closely at the oak base it's sligthly warped (not sure if this is an issue?)

However I'm not sure whether I should use this engine mount assembly? Or whether to just use a current design isolated side-wall based mount? I believe this hull fuselage is built with 5 inch sidewalls (I'll have to measure precisely). Who is the best source for a new current sidewall-based engine mount? Andy Brown? Aeromarine?

(sorry for double post)

I built one of those boats in 1985 with a rossi 80. Threw that mount away and made a new one for the boat using the rubbers from the mount. The mount I made when on to be the design that is used today. Bill McGraw saw the mount and ask if he could copy it. I removed the mount from the boat at the race and handed it to him and we made the drawing of the mount and I put it back in the boat for the next round. Set a new oval record at the 1986 Internats with that boat and a turn fin that Doc Turner layed out that Pinkert copied that has gone on to be the base line that all fins are made by. Also we had a very new style timing system design that we still use today at records trails. It was the first time that system was used at the Internats. Sold the boat a few years later but was able to get it back and I still got the boat today.I know a lot of boats use that style of mount and they work great in monos. They were made to replace the Octure 5" mount. I have since been using the Andy Brown style mount that has two aluim. rails with rubber thru the tub side and nylon bolts. But have been using derlin for the rail for a total plastic mount.

Here are a few images of a brand-new Coyote .67/.80 outrigger, purchased directly from Don Pinckert (back in 1988). Finally starting construction. Will be powered by a brand-new Rossi R80 Marine drum-valve.
Hull looks to be 41in in length overall. I'm very impressed with build quality, exceptionally clean.

I'm thinking, at this point, I will probably use the unique oak wooden-wedge motor-mount design, looks pretty cool (I think). Will machine aluminum mounting plates to fit other current engines as well.

Plan to replace aluminum boom tubes with carbon fibre counterparts. The aluminum tubes included are .625 dia and .500 dia.. I need some input on available equivalent carbon-fibre tubes?

I'm using .250 dia cable, need info on source for brass tubing shaft log, are there thick-wall available for this?

Thanks,

Dave

. It is true as some have mentioned that those rubbers were designed to be mounted vertically in the field they were designed for which was not model boats. However, Eric canto was correct when he told you that mount will vibrate bad. He ran many Pinckert boats and so did I. I converted some mounts to use the rubbers through the hull sides (horizantal) and it worked far better than through the bottom of the boat. Don Pinckert himself even dislikes that mount. If you want to run that mount on rails through the bottom (vertical) you will be better off using a solid mount. (I'm not kidding). The best would be to use the grommets in the hull side like Andy Brown's but with six total instead of four like others mentioned. That is what I now use on my custom built boats. I can post a picture later, if you would like.

Very interesting. Thanks for your insight. .

I figured, after much contemplation, I'll just install this stock (Pinckert) vertical-mounted rubber-isolator mount, really, because it would be the easiest and most convenient- being I already have it. And that it was already machined and fit for a Rossi R80 Marine drum-valve.

I would prefer to use a side-mounted rubber-isolated mount. However it seems to be a small hassle to aquire one pre-drilled and fit for a Rossi R80 Marine drum valve engine. Actually I was planning to experiment with a few engines- Rossi R80Marine, Picco P67 Marine. If there are any products, or manufacturers, which are pre-machined please give me info. I would very much appreciate it.

I don't have precision drilling and machining equipment

 

[Tom Foley]

I'm gearing-up to finally build a brand-new in-box legacy Pinckert Coyote .67/.80 outrigger kit. I purchased this custom built kit from Don back in October 1987, and has sat in my garage since. It will be powered by a brand-new in-box (1987) Andy Brown modded Rossi .80, or possibly a brand-new Picco .67 Silver head (both engines share the same mount dimensions). It's an extremely nicely built boat.

I was analyzing the "old-school" dampened motor-mount assembly. It has two 1/4 inch aluminum plate sections, drilled and tapped to engine dimensions. The aluminum sections are also drilled and tapped to accept four each rubber dampeners. Each aluminum section is secured to a single solid oak hardwood wedge base. The oak wedge is then epoxied to the floor of the engine compartment. Bolts are then inserted thru the hull bottom, up through the oak base and thread into the bottom portion of each rubber isolator. Looking closely at the oak base it's sligthly warped (not sure if this is an issue?)

However I'm not sure whether I should use this engine mount assembly? Or whether to just use a current design isolated side-wall based mount? I believe this hull fuselage is built with 5 inch sidewalls (I'll have to measure precisely). Who is the best source for a new current sidewall-based engine mount? Andy Brown? Aeromarine?

(sorry for double post)

I built one of those boats in 1985 with a rossi 80. Threw that mount away and made a new one for the boat using the rubbers from the mount. The mount I made when on to be the design that is used today. Bill McGraw saw the mount and ask if he could copy it. I removed the mount from the boat at the race and handed it to him and we made the drawing of the mount and I put it back in the boat for the next round. Set a new oval record at the 1986 Internats with that boat and a turn fin that Doc Turner layed out that Pinkert copied that has gone on to be the base line that all fins are made by. Also we had a very new style timing system design that we still use today at records trails. It was the first time that system was used at the Internats. Sold the boat a few years later but was able to get it back and I still got the boat today.I know a lot of boats use that style of mount and they work great in monos. They were made to replace the Octure 5" mount. I have since been using the Andy Brown style mount that has two aluim. rails with rubber thru the tub side and nylon bolts. But have been using derlin for the rail for a total plastic mount.

Here are a few images of a brand-new Coyote .67/.80 outrigger, purchased directly from Don Pinckert (back in 1988). Finally starting construction. Will be powered by a brand-new Rossi R80 Marine drum-valve.
Hull looks to be 41in in length overall. I'm very impressed with build quality, exceptionally clean.

I'm thinking, at this point, I will probably use the unique oak wooden-wedge motor-mount design, looks pretty cool (I think). Will machine aluminum mounting plates to fit other current engines as well.

Plan to replace aluminum boom tubes with carbon fibre counterparts. The aluminum tubes included are .625 dia and .500 dia.. I need some input on available equivalent carbon-fibre tubes?

I'm using .250 dia cable, need info on source for brass tubing shaft log, are there thick-wall available for this?

Thanks,

Dave

. It is true as some have mentioned that those rubbers were designed to be mounted vertically in the field they were designed for which was not model boats. However, Eric canto was correct when he told you that mount will vibrate bad. He ran many Pinckert boats and so did I. I converted some mounts to use the rubbers through the hull sides (horizantal) and it worked far better than through the bottom of the boat. Don Pinckert himself even dislikes that mount. If you want to run that mount on rails through the bottom (vertical) you will be better off using a solid mount. (I'm not kidding). The best would be to use the grommets in the hull side like Andy Brown's but with six total instead of four like others mentioned. That is what I now use on my custom built boats. I can post a picture later, if you would like.

Very interesting. Thanks for your insight. .

I figured, after much contemplation, I'll just install this stock (Pinckert) vertical-mounted rubber-isolator mount, really, because it would be the easiest and most convenient- being I already have it. And that it was already machined and fit for a Rossi R80 Marine drum-valve.

I would prefer to use a side-mounted rubber-isolated mount. However it seems to be a small hassle to aquire one pre-drilled and fit for a Rossi R80 Marine drum valve engine. Actually I was planning to experiment with a few engines- Rossi R80Marine, Picco P67 Marine. If there are any products, or manufacturers, which are pre-machined please give me info. I would very much appreciate it.

I don't have precision drilling and machining equipment

The oil from your fuel will puddle in the vertical mounts and despite cleaning regimen will eventually undermine the wood sealing process .

 

[David Bryant]

I'm gearing-up to finally build a brand-new in-box legacy Pinckert Coyote .67/.80 outrigger kit. I purchased this custom built kit from Don back in October 1987, and has sat in my garage since. It will be powered by a brand-new in-box (1987) Andy Brown modded Rossi .80, or possibly a brand-new Picco .67 Silver head (both engines share the same mount dimensions). It's an extremely nicely built boat.

I was analyzing the "old-school" dampened motor-mount assembly. It has two 1/4 inch aluminum plate sections, drilled and tapped to engine dimensions. The aluminum sections are also drilled and tapped to accept four each rubber dampeners. Each aluminum section is secured to a single solid oak hardwood wedge base. The oak wedge is then epoxied to the floor of the engine compartment. Bolts are then inserted thru the hull bottom, up through the oak base and thread into the bottom portion of each rubber isolator. Looking closely at the oak base it's sligthly warped (not sure if this is an issue?)

However I'm not sure whether I should use this engine mount assembly? Or whether to just use a current design isolated side-wall based mount? I believe this hull fuselage is built with 5 inch sidewalls (I'll have to measure precisely). Who is the best source for a new current sidewall-based engine mount? Andy Brown? Aeromarine?

(sorry for double post)

I built one of those boats in 1985 with a rossi 80. Threw that mount away and made a new one for the boat using the rubbers from the mount. The mount I made when on to be the design that is used today. Bill McGraw saw the mount and ask if he could copy it. I removed the mount from the boat at the race and handed it to him and we made the drawing of the mount and I put it back in the boat for the next round. Set a new oval record at the 1986 Internats with that boat and a turn fin that Doc Turner layed out that Pinkert copied that has gone on to be the base line that all fins are made by. Also we had a very new style timing system design that we still use today at records trails. It was the first time that system was used at the Internats. Sold the boat a few years later but was able to get it back and I still got the boat today.I know a lot of boats use that style of mount and they work great in monos. They were made to replace the Octure 5" mount. I have since been using the Andy Brown style mount that has two aluim. rails with rubber thru the tub side and nylon bolts. But have been using derlin for the rail for a total plastic mount.

Here are a few images of a brand-new Coyote .67/.80 outrigger, purchased directly from Don Pinckert (back in 1988). Finally starting construction. Will be powered by a brand-new Rossi R80 Marine drum-valve.
Hull looks to be 41in in length overall. I'm very impressed with build quality, exceptionally clean.

I'm thinking, at this point, I will probably use the unique oak wooden-wedge motor-mount design, looks pretty cool (I think). Will machine aluminum mounting plates to fit other current engines as well.

Plan to replace aluminum boom tubes with carbon fibre counterparts. The aluminum tubes included are .625 dia and .500 dia.. I need some input on available equivalent carbon-fibre tubes?

I'm using .250 dia cable, need info on source for brass tubing shaft log, are there thick-wall available for this?

Thanks,

Dave

. It is true as some have mentioned that those rubbers were designed to be mounted vertically in the field they were designed for which was not model boats. However, Eric canto was correct when he told you that mount will vibrate bad. He ran many Pinckert boats and so did I. I converted some mounts to use the rubbers through the hull sides (horizantal) and it worked far better than through the bottom of the boat. Don Pinckert himself even dislikes that mount. If you want to run that mount on rails through the bottom (vertical) you will be better off using a solid mount. (I'm not kidding). The best would be to use the grommets in the hull side like Andy Brown's but with six total instead of four like others mentioned. That is what I now use on my custom built boats. I can post a picture later, if you would like.

Very interesting. Thanks for your insight. .

I figured, after much contemplation, I'll just install this stock (Pinckert) vertical-mounted rubber-isolator mount, really, because it would be the easiest and most convenient- being I already have it. And that it was already machined and fit for a Rossi R80 Marine drum-valve.

I would prefer to use a side-mounted rubber-isolated mount. However it seems to be a small hassle to aquire one pre-drilled and fit for a Rossi R80 Marine drum valve engine. Actually I was planning to experiment with a few engines- Rossi R80Marine, Picco P67 Marine. If there are any products, or manufacturers, which are pre-machined please give me info. I would very much appreciate it.

I don't have precision drilling and machining equipment

The oil from your fuel will puddle in the vertical mounts and despite cleaning regimen will eventually undermine the wood sealing process .

I see, did'nt think of that. I guess, being the threaded rubber isolator's are in a vertical position on the floor, the fuel/oil "gunk" can seep down into the drilled holes?

 

[gil sonsino]

Yes oil will penetrate slowly in these áreas.You can use brass thread inserts in your base or change it for a G10 plate...has worked for me.Gill

 

[David Bryant]

Yes oil will penetrate slowly in these áreas.You can use brass thread inserts in your base or change it for a G10 plate...has worked for me.Gill

you mean installing threaded inserts into the base mounting holes such that the rubber isolators can thread into? also sealing-off the open wood grain by having through holes in the base

 

[gil sonsino]

Yes David brass threaded inserts work great in this situation plus one thin lawyer of light fiberglass cloth over the base will keep water /oil away .Gill

 

[brad nichols]

I have a 90 Coyote that I bought for a good price and will try to get it done this year but have to finish a 21 Spyder first. Love them old style boats!!

Brad

 

[David Bryant]

I have a 90 Coyote that I bought for a good price and will try to get it done this year

if you can post a few images of it, I'd like to see what it looks like. Thanks