Novarossi carb/header/pipe combination

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Rito Andy i will do that! Im 100m above sea level! And currently running 25% nitro!No prop setup yet i was more interested in running the pipe carb and fuel tank combo on the Hudy test bench first(i have had issues with tank pressure!) But that was with a Macs pipe with an incorrect pressure fitting placement! And a Traxxas header! Thats why i purchased the carb/header and pipe really the boats only been floating in the bath!
 
Your a good man Tom im a buggy man trying to sort out this boat stuff! So any lesson you can teach me is a bonus in my book! And the help I've received here is greatly appreciated! Pity i can't buy you boy's a beer for your efforts or a bourbon!! Thanks again for your help
 
Your welcome

Andy Brown is a icon in model boating here in the US.

Any info that he shares is right on.

I would get back with him for a good reference on your pipe length. He can deffently steer you in the right direction for your set up.

Cheers,

Tom David
 
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Some one take a pic of their set-up and post would be a help! Brad are you going to run a 3rd channel for the mixture control? If you are then the low speed needle is not required and then you take the needle out and cut the needle off and reinstall it then the knurled button can be removed and the shaft it sat on can be cut off so it doesn't get ih the way. 50 or 60 precent nitro is what you need to run with about 18 percent oil for fuel to make these engines run and make power.

Brad
 
Here is a pic of my Ninja, I am using a Frank O carb and a OS remote needle, But I have used a Nova carb with Nova 3rd channel needle still the same..jpg
 
Thanks Brad! from one Brad to Another!! Remove 11453 machine it down shortening it? (In my lathe?) for the removal of 11455 then remove the needle on 11453 then put it back together? Eliminating the use of the low speed? Or does spring 11357 also need removing? And O-ring on 11453? I could be wrong though??

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Thanks for the picture Rene! And thanks Brad! I gather then idle is then set through servo position (throttle position) thanks for the heads up!! I will give it a go!I Get some methonal this week (i have plenty of oil and nitro!) So will start going up in nitro in increments maybe 40% then 50%? Am i rite in saying the colder the plug the higher the nitro content? Sorry for all the rookie questions!! And thanks again for EVERYONE WHO HAS CONTRIBUTED!!This forum is the best! Simply for the experience of the members and there bloody stella help!!
 
The higher the nitro the colder the plug. The carb position with the barrel slightly open will be rich and as it opens more it will start to clean itself out until it screams, when going from idle to wide open, it should stumble a bit before it screams. If it goes from idle and sreams it will be too lean and can hurt the motor. Its better to be rich and get it launched then start to lean. Pipes and props also play a big part in this too. It use to be said long and lean or short and fat, it's all a trade off.

Brad
 
The higher the nitro the colder the plug. The carb position with the barrel slightly open will be rich and as it opens more it will start to clean itself out until it screams, when going from idle to wide open, it should stumble a bit before it screams. If it goes from idle and sreams it will be too lean and can hurt the motor. Its better to be rich and get it launched then start to lean. Pipes and props also play a big part in this too. It use to be said long and lean or short and fat, it's all a trade off.

Brad


The medium heat range plugs will serve you well on 30, 40, 50, 60% and even 70% nitro. Novarossi #6 or McCoy #9 or K&B HP.

In the Buggy engine .024" head clearance is normal and works well. That won't work at all in the boat. About .010" will be a good starting point. Could go tighter for more power.

Once the low speed needle is removed from the carb, the carb opening will have to be set about 1/3 open for your IDLE position. You will want the engine to sound VERY rich with this setting. As Brad mentioned, it will get leaner as you open the throttle.

Do not try to snap the throttle open quickly or rev it up and down quickly while the boat is on the beach with no load on it. It won't take the fuel and could flame out. Just hold a steady throttle setting or slowly open the throttle to clear the engine. Once the boat is in the water and there is a load on the engine, the mixture will clean up in the low rpm range and throttle response will be great

There are plenty of prop gurus that will suggest the "latest greatest go fast" props. You just want to make successful laps around the lake to start with, so I would suggest an Octura X445 for the 40% nitro. I have seen the stock Octura X648 run very fast on the JAE with 60% nitro.They will hook up well on the JAE.

Keep your pipe on the long side to start with also. Maybe about 4" from the side/center of the cylinder to the high point. You can shorten it after you get consistent runs and begin to get more power from increased nitro.
 
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Short n fat is where it's at!!It's an Old benchrest shooting saying!! Especially with cartridge design!Thanks for the stumble a bit tip!! And the help Brad! I've found engines run the best just before they BLOW UP!!that 60% nitro is starting to scare me
 
Thanks Andy the tips you have given me could save me a bunch of grief!time! And money!And i appreciate it!!Also gives me a very very good starting point that this buggy boof head may well of never learned if people on here(thanks to everyone)like you would have never replied! I feel privileged! you guys should be proud of yourselves
 
Hello Bradley, the guys (specially Andy !), who have provided guidance to you with the build of your lttle rigger are the best guys to give such advice. I've also benefitted a great deal from receiving hints and advice from a number of very experienced boaters in the USA. I'm certainly not in their league but for what it's worth I provide a photo of the set-up in my JAE21 which runs well. I realise that you have a larger cooling head on your engine but I simply rotated the header a little upwards so that the needle sits under the pipe.

Good luck with your build and I'm sure you will have a lot of fun with your boat. Mine is about 4 years old and I still get a kick out of running it on our dam. Unfortunately we dont run the small riggers as a class in our club.

Regards,

JAE21-A.jpg
 
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Short n fat is where it's at!!It's an Old benchrest shooting saying!! Especially with cartridge design!Thanks for the stumble a bit tip!! And the help Brad! IfI've found engines run the best just before they BLOW UP!!that 60% nitro is starting to scare me
If you blow up a nova you have done something. Unless you cut it up it won't blow up
 
Thanks again boys! They say a picture is worth a thousand words!! And thanks Cape Town! I appreciate it! And i will try not to blow up the engine's i own (especially those MAXPOWER engines I own as they still leave my Novarossi engines in there dust!! It may be that Massimo Fantini hand built the one's i own though?) but they are after ALL a Novarossi based engine! And i HAVE SEEN A FEW! Novarossi engines blow up! Try running medicinal caster oil as your oil!!! Or not adding oil at all!! Like a mate used to say! It's ok in life to build things that are IDIOT PROOF!! the problem is where just building BETTER IDIOTS!!
 
Just keep it clean an simple.I wish they made the .12 Novarossi exhaust over the flywheel.

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