Is there an easy way to do this?

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Have watched others battle the same issue, did myself for only one test session and then made the best decision any RC boater can make, toss those leaky plastic tanks in the trash and retro fit a high quality custom stainless tank in their place and you will have eliminated 99% of your challenges. Let’s revisit your original question, is there an easier way to do this, the answer is yes, toss the plastic eliminate the aggravation and increase the fun factor by a 1000 percent. While at it, replace all lines with new fresh fuel lines. Bang, Bob’s your uncle and your racing! You may have other motor tweaking and tuning to make but you will have eliminated a big one and your a whole lot closer to the full solution.
 
Been contemplating metal tanks for a while, just one problem. I couldn't find someone that would make a tank in the shape I needed. If the tank didn't fit the tooling they had, they couldn't do it. Any suggestions on that, Greg? Trust me, I'm all eyes and ears
 
Walt Barney Tanks 4U will built you any size and shape of tank you need and will place the inlet and outlet tubes exactly where you need them. Walt’s tanks are perfect and made to your specifications, have dozens of custom tanks made by him and their fit and function has been perfect.
 
if youve been running all this time with the setup it works. normal maintenance like tubing changes should solve issues . $300 worth of tanks lol [im guessing by size and odd shape] isnt magic solve it all. dozens of records have been set with plastic tanks.

it seemed you said the engine had 20 "starts". a few things --
-are these just test starts ? i.e new engine or new bearings
-is the engine had more than 1 owner?
--was it running normal/full speed/finishing all laps before

in any case ive seen a guy with twins put in new bearings and have same issue for a whole weekend. went thru all the stuff stated here (only with metal tanks) and still nothing . it would do 2 really good laps like its almost running perfect then both engines shut down . look like could be radio right ? changed that too . evenn changed the throttle servo .

next week he changed bearings and the boat ran again . why? who knows. maybe damaged on install ,maybe bad bearings,,but both ? 2 engines ? i never understood it. ive also seen it happen with a single 45 .

it seems the draining the tanks with pump till empty test works for me as long as a) no bubbles randomly and b) u have to test the pressure line separately some way,,usually just replace it
but if the engine warms up then dies OR if u look at it properly its leaning out slightly because of less fuel pressure cause the tanks are 2 3rds done their laps then its a tiny leak that ur compensating for with a richer setting on stand .
a fuel system leak -seams ruled out to me . or bearing leak which will show when warm up enough. it gets worse and shows when the time till shutdown gets shorter and shorter,and/or youre richening more and more to get same run time .
cantilever style engines are a pita in boats imo.
in any case (long post) u can also check head button,,stupid but ive seen a couple cmb cantilevers that had the headbutton start leaking after a few laps . idk why/how. possible inconsistency in manufacturing
 
Here's a different path and a long shot. When I have had problems with engines running and just quitting for no reason I could find in the fuel system, I finally checked engine operating temperature. I've over-cooled before with much the same aggravating results.

Another something to check.
 
I've heard that one before. It could be an issue since I changed to a Speedmaster rudder assembly from the more scale like one it had previously. The previous rudder had a tube soldered to the rear edge of the blade that extended a slight distance from the bottom of the rudder.
 
Sorry, Shawn, I missed your post last month. To answer your questions:
-are these just test starts ? i.e new engine or new bearings? New and unmodded engine with actual race runs on it
-is the engine had more than 1 owner? Don't remember if I got it from someone that didn't run it or from Stu Barr
-was it running normal/full speed/finishing all laps before? Yes, in fact I got one good run out of it a few weeks previous
I was finally able to order new tanks late last week. I'm going with the same type that was already in the boat since it will keep things consistent, as well as not cost as much as metal tanks do. They are supposed to arrive Wednesday or Thursday so, when they show up, I'll install the new ones and see what happens. If the problem continues, I may try a different engine that I know ran well last time I used it and see what happens there too. Guess there's only one way to find out o_O
 
Been contemplating metal tanks for a while, just one problem. I couldn't find someone that would make a tank in the shape I needed. If the tank didn't fit the tooling they had, they couldn't do it. Any suggestions on that, Greg? Trust me, I'm all eyes and ears
You don't need any tooling just plywood forms to bend around by hand .
 
Finally got my replacement tanks yesterday. My goal is to get them set up and installed this weekend so I can, hopefully, test next weekend.
 

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