Wierd the description of the split collar oiler. I just made one similiar to it a couple days ago. Must be great minds here.LOLmystik B) . all their stuff is good. messing with all things mechanical in florida for 45 years taught be about mystik products.
another easy way to connect an oiler to your stuffing tube is to use an aluminum boom tube collar. find one that fits your tubing, calmp it in position on the tube & drill through both oppososite the split in the collar. use a drill bit sized to tap a 4-40 hole. remove the collar, tap it 4-40 & install a 4-40 threaded nipple/water fitting. clamp it back in place, lining up the holes. tubing from that to your oil tank - done.
kevin, alden makes a killer oiler for ob's, if TT's can use them :huh: ....
ian, both the k&b & the os ob's use a similar system. the os has a hose from the muffler to the flex, & the k7b "non can" engines have a passage cast in the lower from the ex. chamber to the flex. the can engines (ss & sx) have no ex. to flex oil provision.
B) !!Wierd the description of the split collar oiler. I just made one similiar to it a couple days ago. Must be great minds here.LOLmystik B) . all their stuff is good. messing with all things mechanical in florida for 45 years taught be about mystik products.
another easy way to connect an oiler to your stuffing tube is to use an aluminum boom tube collar. find one that fits your tubing, calmp it in position on the tube & drill through both oppososite the split in the collar. use a drill bit sized to tap a 4-40 hole. remove the collar, tap it 4-40 & install a 4-40 threaded nipple/water fitting. clamp it back in place, lining up the holes. tubing from that to your oil tank - done.
kevin, alden makes a killer oiler for ob's, if TT's can use them :huh: ....
ian, both the k&b & the os ob's use a similar system. the os has a hose from the muffler to the flex, & the k7b "non can" engines have a passage cast in the lower from the ex. chamber to the flex. the can engines (ss & sx) have no ex. to flex oil provision.
Gotta keep that apron clean.I use grease. That means I have to remove, clean, inspect and regrease my cables on a regular basis.
Paper towels are cheap and I go through a lot of them.
Al Hobbs
I hate to say it but I also was thinking of a similar setup!!! Not sure yet if I want messy oil or messy grease that gets every where!!!!B) !!Wierd the description of the split collar oiler. I just made one similiar to it a couple days ago. Must be great minds here.LOLmystik B) . all their stuff is good. messing with all things mechanical in florida for 45 years taught be about mystik products.
another easy way to connect an oiler to your stuffing tube is to use an aluminum boom tube collar. find one that fits your tubing, calmp it in position on the tube & drill through both oppososite the split in the collar. use a drill bit sized to tap a 4-40 hole. remove the collar, tap it 4-40 & install a 4-40 threaded nipple/water fitting. clamp it back in place, lining up the holes. tubing from that to your oil tank - done.
kevin, alden makes a killer oiler for ob's, if TT's can use them :huh: ....
ian, both the k&b & the os ob's use a similar system. the os has a hose from the muffler to the flex, & the k7b "non can" engines have a passage cast in the lower from the ex. chamber to the flex. the can engines (ss & sx) have no ex. to flex oil provision.
use bean oil(castor oil)I hate the oilers. They have ruined all my pants from it leaking out the boat when I launch Don's riggers. He bought me an apron for my birthday, then he recently came up with an oiler that didn drain out the engine compartment. How much pollution are we putting in the lake with these oilers. What's wrong with a little grease.
Craig, Is that the pale green stuff that Mercury sells???Hi
It is interesting to see quite differing opinions on this topic.
For my 26cc Zenoah gas mono, I've tried several teflon based grease products. The one I've found best so far is Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine with Teflon.I find that after a long running session the flexi shaft still has plenty of grease stuck to it.
I agree that it is not a bad thing to have to remove the shaft to inspect it prior to re-greasing after a good long run.
Regards
Craig
no glenn, that's old evinrudes they have chewed up & spit out :lol: :lol:Craig, Is that the pale green stuff that Mercury sells???Hi
It is interesting to see quite differing opinions on this topic.
For my 26cc Zenoah gas mono, I've tried several teflon based grease products. The one I've found best so far is Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine with Teflon.I find that after a long running session the flexi shaft still has plenty of grease stuck to it.
I agree that it is not a bad thing to have to remove the shaft to inspect it prior to re-greasing after a good long run.
Regards
Craig
Thanks,
Glenn
Stop it Robin- trying to be serious here :lol: ! I've been using the Evenrude triple guard and it seems to be very thick- noticed a guy at the lake using a Mercury product- cream or very light green and it did not seem as thick or heavy as the blue grease- just wondered if it was better??? Due for a new tube and would like to use the BEST.no glenn, that's old evinrudes they have chewed up & spit out :lol: :lol:Craig, Is that the pale green stuff that Mercury sells???Hi
It is interesting to see quite differing opinions on this topic.
For my 26cc Zenoah gas mono, I've tried several teflon based grease products. The one I've found best so far is Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine with Teflon.I find that after a long running session the flexi shaft still has plenty of grease stuck to it.
I agree that it is not a bad thing to have to remove the shaft to inspect it prior to re-greasing after a good long run.
Regards
Craig
Thanks,
Glenn
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