CVR OS .18 backplate and coil start compatible with Aqua 18

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BlueBlaster

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2008
Messages
413
Like topic says would the backplate of the OS CVR 18 work with the Aqua .18. Since they no longer make the Aqua .18? I was trying to find parts and the two seem similar. I run belt start now but I like to have the pull start as back up.
 
The OS backplate works, but requires modification to fit the AQ engine case. There is a small machined area in front of the slot for the o-ring that you have to turn down and you have to cut off the pullstart pin on the crankshaft. A Dremel tool will take care of both tasks. I use the stock AQ gasket.
 
68 bud is correct............. .018" lip... take it all the way off... the cvr has a bigger back plate opening... listen to me when i say this... when you machine the pto pin off the crank,,,do not,.,,, i repeat do not start taking the rod pin away..... the more you pull away from that area the more the rod will ride off of it....BOOM!...... take the pto pin just to the face of the rod pin..... even if you leave a couple thou...your good...... assemble the crank into the case.. install the back plate with a aqua gasket like 68 bud said..make sure your collet and flywheel are tight..now check the clearance between the crank pin and the back plate...push in on the crank lightlywhen doing so .... with you can do this easily with the p/l out and peek through the liner case bore........if for any reason it touches the back plate...no good..... actually take away the inner face of the back plate,,not the crank.... repeat the process till you have clearance of like .004" remember this is with you pushing in on the crank lightly to be sure the crank is as far as it can slide back with a collet and flywheel tight....... the inner face of the back plate should be smoothed anyway as its rough cast and the rod is gonna ride on it,,, ill garantee you that...... now the tricky part.... to prevent rod float,, spacers,,,,yep i said it,,,spacers can be used on the piston pin to prevent so much rod travel...... didnt matter when the rod was sandwiched inbetween the crank pin shoulder and the pto plate from the factory........ its not necesary,, but it will gain you that lil extra friction free rotation.....

also look down into the back plate,,, the rear transfer will be almost blocked by the back plate,,, ramp that section of the back plate so it smoothly runs up to the transfer port......also be sure you clean that section of the case.... if its stock,, the machining from the factory never made it all the way down to the crank wieght bore...take that small chunk out of there with a dremel... clean it to match the inner machining of the transfer

wow........k im done.....

alden
 

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