can u make a slide carb work

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Lol. The crank was cut short whn i put in my losi and the flywheel backwards is the only way i can get a fly wheel on it unless i buy a whole new crank shaft unless the make a extinction peace to screw on to the old one.
 
I think you're having problems starting it and also with your pipe with this setup.

I would do like Greg suggested, get a Sullivan steel cable like is used in outboard setups. This will save a lot a room and since the line is very thin you won't have any problems with your starter belt it think.

Don't know how easy the carb slides, if it goes smooth you could use the thin cable from Sullivan (http://www.sullivanproducts.com/GoldnRodMainFrame.htm item No. S507) or otherwise use the thicker one (No. S508).
 
James... per your flywheel, a buggy engine conversion, may see you lathe the flywheel face down( or even milled/drilled at the collet hole) to gain enough clearance to thread the collet on with whats left after cutting off the pilot shaft... possibly get with Rod, or Bill to do the work, maybe.... keep building.... Mike
 
I dont have time right now to do much of anything. But Bill might be able to help. Also, how are you going to start it James? A belt wont fit as that linkage runs right across where the belt needs to go.
 
Still working on it .... i have a few different rods that i bent in different ways to see if i could get my belt in there...its a bit challenging nut afer about 50 bucks of playing around with it ill get it to work.... i lost bills number or i wouldd call him...maybe i could im butch and give him my number.
 
That's kind of why I suggested runing the carb linkage behind the carb instead of in front.
 
Looks to me that you need to line up engine better to drive wire also.. its important that its straight
 
Here ya go guys does this look better i hope.....different flywheel and put the right way i finally realized i could unscrew the shaft from thr crank after looking at it a few times heated it up and unscrewed the shaft and replaced it
 
You know,,,, you could bend that shaft a bit so you have some more clearance if you need it for the belt. Z bend it or curve it and put it in the last hole!!
 
Couple more pics... got the rod to go right across the back of the flywheel now allowing me to get my starterbelt in and be able to start works great and carb opens and closes easy....
 
There, that's a lot better!
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I forgot about some engines where you can removed the threaded part as there aren't many of them, It came in very handy to adapt to different cars and trucks or if somebody just plain messed it up. You could go from a fully-threaded shaft to an SG without having to replace the crank.
 
Thank u...i was glad i looked at it again cuz i have had moters like that in the past and at frist it didnt look like it was and then looked at another crank i had and poof it click in my head....lol :).....also where should i start my pipe at....i think i heard someone say on anothe forum about 6 1/2 but here is another pic...
 
I've seen everything from 8-1/2" to "as short as you can go". I've got at least 3 pipes to try out right now. I've seen someone tried a Cooper 21 S pipe also with great results.

A former member here made me up some Nova Rossi .21 carbs that made a world of difference! The problem with using the car and truck engines is that the carb bore is limited to 5.5mm per ROAR rules. We don't have a bore limit on these.
 
Im not sure if i put on this thread that this a 12 rigger with a rb 12 ....thats y i was asking about where i should start my pipe length at...8 1/2 is where i started my 21 but that seems kind of long for a 12...
 
Yeah, I got that part. Sometimes it depends on what pipe you use. I've been tinkering with .12's long before they started getting popular, around 1998 or `99. Now they're getting them really short. I had to go to a GS Racing "J" coupler to get them short enough on 180 degree headers.
 
I thought it was a 18:(... Had my 12 carbon pipe down to 6.5... Start long go shorter, you are probably going to be in the 7" range or shorter if all is working properly!! But I would test and get the correct prop before going to short on the pipe..
 

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