Bored at Work 2004.... .12 rigger

[Ron Olson]

We need John Finch in here on this one. I saw in one of his articles in RCBM that he was experimenting with a V bottomed transom on a 'rigger. I was thinking of trying to build one from the extra HH .12 pieces that I have, basically a way to enclose the stuffing tube.

 

[wswatzell]

I added another update to my .12 rigger design.

I am figuring out where to put stuff.

https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=75&page=2

 

[Terry Keeley]

Looks good! I think you'll have better success if you mount the engine horizontal and put a gentle "S" bend in the shaft. Been doing this 10 years or so on the advice of Ed Hughey and Gary Preusse and never wear out shafts. I think Rod G. did some tests on this and found less drag too.

 

[Terry Keeley]

Also, if you put the rudder on the left you can use it's drag to make the boat go straight. B)

 

[Don Templeton]

Looks good!  I think you'll have better success if you mount the engine horizontal and put a gentle "S" bend in the shaft.  Been doing this 10 years or so on the advice of Ed Hughey and Gary Preusse and never wear out shafts.  I think Rod G. did some tests on this and found less drag too. 

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Wade,

Cool design! B)

However, I couldn't agree more with Terry on the S-bend. You probably wouldnt even have to change the engine angle. As for the rudder, I like mine on the right. What depth do you plan to run the (center line of your shaft) compared to the inside running surface of your sponsons with boat at proposed attitude?

Don

 

[wswatzell]

I originally had an "s" bend in the prop shaft, but I changed it when I started to layout the radio box. I'll try to rearrange things so that I can get the "s" bend back.

Don, I’m not really sure what the depth is right now. I'll have to look at that tomorrow when I am back at work.

 

[Hammerhead]

Hey you guys! Lookin' goooood Other than using my HH.12 for spare parts Ron!!!! That's okay, though. Have at it B) I'm buildin' again. Should be ready this spring to rip up the lakes around here. Sure glad I'm back in friendly waters

HH12 ver. 3 is hot!

Advice on the V bottoms. The water will stick to the hull and slow you down. I have done it. If you put about a 3/8 in. flat surface at the peak of the V you'll get lots more speed and you will be able to get up on a plane better with the cavitation props ( V937ect. )

Good luck!

Hammer

 

[Don Templeton]

Heeeeeeeeeeeeeee's back! Now things are really going to heat up on this forum! :lol:

Great to have back Hammer and I'll be watching for #3 for sure.

Don

 

[wswatzell]

Well I made a few mods today, but our internet was down at work today, so I wasn't able to post pics.

I put the "s" curve back in the flex shaft, & messed with the AOA of the front & rear sponsons. I have them set at 3 deg in front & 2.5deg in the rear.

Don, the center of my prop is .100" above my assumed water line at full plane. I can't get it any lower unless I have the flex shaft protruding through the bottom of the ride pad, & I really don't want to do that.

 

[MikeP]

Hammer,

Do you have any pictures of the HH.12 #3?

Mike

 

[Don Templeton]

Well I made a few mods today, but our internet was down at work today, so I wasn't able to post pics.
I put the "s" curve back in the flex shaft, & messed with the AOA of the front & rear sponsons.  I have them set at 3 deg in front & 2.5deg in the rear. 

Don, the center of my prop is .100" above my assumed water line at full plane.  I can't get it any lower unless I have the flex shaft protruding through the bottom of the ride pad, & I really don't want to do that.

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Just to compare, the center line of my prop is 1/4" higher than the TE of the front sponsons with the bottom of the tub level. Fronts are 4 degrees AOA with 2.5 degrees dihedral. Rears are 1 degree with the TE set at same height as center line of prop. Angle of prop shaft is 1 degree max. Drive dog approx. 3/16" behind transom.

Food for thought,

Don

 

[wswatzell]

Thanks for the info Don. I'll keep those things in mind.

 

[Don Templeton]

Hey Wade,

I'm not trying to say I'm right about these numbers. It's just kinda nice to see what other people are thinking and doing. Different designs, different set ups. food for thought for all of us.

Don

 

[wswatzell]

Don, I agree with you completely. Since most .12 riggers are all scratch built, there are a ton of different design ideas out there. I have received a lot of different ideas on this design, from a lot of different people, some I have used, & some I have not, & some, just haven't applied to this design. When I started this design, it was something to pass my down time at work, & to play with the new CAD software that we might be migrating to in the future, but the further I got into it, the more I want to build it!

 

[Don Templeton]

Go for it Wade and keep a running post. I love the winter when everyone is building. I've got lots of ideas running around in my head and some parts and materials on order. Can't wait to see what old man Hammer comes up with! :lol:

Don

 

[wswatzell]

Well, the internet is back up at work, so check my gallery for updated pictures of my .12 rigger

 

[MikeP]

Cool Wade, I really enjoy looking at your drawings. I find the CG you have interesting. I have found on mine that the CG ends up at the flex hex, if I try real hard I can get it to the starter belt.

It looks like you have something in front of the tank?

Mike

 

[MikeP]

You have a perfect drawing of the DPI rudder, if you notice that the leading edge is angled in front of the hinge pin. Anybody know what that does when you are in a turn?

Mike

 

[Don Templeton]

I would guess it keeps the rear end up!

Don

 

[TomMoorehouse]

You have a perfect drawing of the DPI rudder, if you notice that the leading edge is angled in front of the hinge pin. Anybody know what that does when you are in a turn?
Mike

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make the rudder servo work harder?