- Joined
- Oct 27, 2005
- Messages
- 7,294
Yeah I'm just sitting around wondering what I will do each day lol...Will this be before or or after you build that control line plane you got ages ago? LOL!
Yeah I'm just sitting around wondering what I will do each day lol...Will this be before or or after you build that control line plane you got ages ago? LOL!
I had a 3 piece hard shaft setup in my 40 Drag 'N Fly . Made the shafts out of oil hardening drill rod after seeing Jim Allen do it that way .I would think just building one with a flex cable drive and adjustable strut would make light years improvement over the original set ups.
My first build, scaled down from one of my full sized hulls, way before Dragonfly’s.
TOM I WANT YOUR TALLENT!... DANG YOU!
Grim
The dog bone U joints had to be perfectly aligned and supported plus with the steering strut the pivot had to be dead on or it would tear out the shaft log. Yup, drill rod until Mr. G’s 17-4PH with the nitride surface (Rc70 surface) shafts became available, they held up to needle bearings much better than drill rod.I had a 3 piece hard shaft setup in my 40 Drag 'N Fly . Made the shafts out of oil hardening drill rod after seeing Jim Allen do it that way .
Funny you would say that, John. My 1/8th scale 2000 Elam Plus had a rudder set up that was a welded rod scale style mount with a hard mounted rudder on a music wire shaft. That was fine, until I hit an underwater branch that bent the shaft 60* and seriously tweeked the bracket. I was able repair most of the damage but, unfortunately, the next accident(had a boat go dead right in front of mine) pretty much required replacing that with a Speedmaster shear pin type assembly. IF I were home, instead of at work, I'd post a picture of the rudder it had when I bought the boat.Most boaters were building rudders that looked like full size inboard boats were using. Lots of had forming aluminum, but if you hit something it tore it up.
That’s a Michigan Alky boat but I don’t remember who’s number.Bill Gibson....
"Mr. G's" Wow that brings back memories.The dog bone U joints had to be perfectly aligned and supported plus with the steering strut the pivot had to be dead on or it would tear out the shaft log. Yup, drill rod until Mr. G’s 17-4PH with the nitride surface (Rc70 surface) shafts became available, they held up to needle bearings much better than drill rod.
My second hull had no strut, solid shaft with surface drive and as shallow an angle I could make it. If I remember it came in around 3 degrees. This boat also had the first shear pin style rudder in our area. Most boaters were building rudders that looked like full size inboard boats were using. Lots of had forming aluminum, but if you hit something it tore it up.
You delivered quite a few didn’t you."Mr. G's" Wow that brings back memories.
Bill Gibson....VERY COOL! Its kinda got similar lines to a Dragon Fli!
Bill Gibson....
I lost count. They were in high demand until the flex cable took off, then it was over for hard shafts.You delivered quite a few didn’t you.
My first boat was the 40 DNF . Go flex like Bill did., Speedmaster hardware , Octura and ABC props . Transom mount or through hull strut like Bill has . Be sure to completely seal inner framework twice with slow epoxy . Follow Bills build and you will be in good shape . Technology Hobbies , Seaducer Boats , Stumpfab , Zippkits are a few places for supplies and hardware .dont mean to hijack this thread but new to the group. Nice drag n fly 20. Been a long time since Ive made a build. But have a drag n fly 40 kit. Any suggestions on how to supply the necessary hardware? Finding dumas doesnt supply any longer. Octura? Original was shaft drive. Go with a flex drive instead? Not sure were to start. Thanks for any suggestions. Mike
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