A $99.00 rc boat prop on ebay

[spd-props]

Andy Brown Sharpened & Balanced (includes thinning)  P-215 bronze  $29.55
                                                                                P-215 stainless  $35.35

We do it full time and have 15 years experience.

Check us out at CMDRACING.COM

Our Custom props hold most of the Major Speed records including the New 110 mph Gas rigger pass made by Micheal Bontoft.

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MR. Brown,

very intersting.... thin.... less rotating mass= higher RPM= more speed. Up to this point I have not considered this. I wil most certainly visit your web site. unfortunatly for me I am at the begining of my experience ladder. If the properties I have initaly focused on show promise, hopefully in the future I will be able to venture into the unknown (for me) of thinner, in additon to what I am currently doing. HOLY CRAP MAN........110 MPH zzzoooooom

Thank you for the input and pricing.

Steve

 

[Watercadet]

Andy Brown Sharpened & Balanced (includes thinning)  P-215 bronze  $29.55
                                                                                P-215 stainless  $35.35

We do it full time and have 15 years experience.

Check us out at CMDRACING.COM

Our Custom props hold most of the Major Speed records including the New 110 mph Gas rigger pass made by Micheal Bontoft.

78726[/snapback]

​

I have several of your props Andy, and love every one of them. Excelent edge; sharp and concentric. I really like the "finish" your props have. They look fast just sitting there. That lined look. From a sanding disk maybe?

Adam

 

[Watercadet]

Andy Brown Sharpened & Balanced (includes thinning)  P-215 bronze  $29.55
                                                                                P-215 stainless  $35.35

We do it full time and have 15 years experience.

Check us out at CMDRACING.COM

Our Custom props hold most of the Major Speed records including the New 110 mph Gas rigger pass made by Micheal Bontoft.

78726[/snapback]

​

MR. Brown,

very intersting.... thin.... less rotating mass= higher RPM= more speed. Up to this point I have not considered this. I wil most certainly visit your web site. unfortunatly for me I am at the begining of my experience ladder. If the properties I have initaly focused on show promise, hopefully in the future I will be able to venture into the unknown (for me) of thinner, in additon to what I am currently doing. HOLY CRAP MAN........110 MPH zzzoooooom

Thank you for the input and pricing.

Steve

78739[/snapback]

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Thin is in I think more for hydrodynamic drag than rotating mass. They are not too heavy and the diameter is relativly small. A thin blade slices through the water easyer. 110 mph is the tip of the iceburg for Andy. What 126 offically Andy? and 130's unoffically?

Adam

 

[AndyBrown]

110 mph on Gasoline. 126 mph on Nitro.

 

[[email protected]]

Steve,

The B/S simply means "Balanced & Sharpened".

As for the thinning of the prps it sound like your learning as you go, stay on the board here, these guys have a wealth of knowledge. Maybe try 457 props for the 1/8 scales. If you can get them B/S as wella s that mirrored polished they can use them for "Concourse" Judging.

 

[spd-props]

uh......guess I should have guessed that one . I have been talking to a couple very helpful people thru email from this board, and they have suggested octura as my next prop to try. I will be purchasing a couple X440's and one or two other sizes.

Just a casual question to all whom are wise and experienced:

Am I wasting time and effort putting such a high polish on these props?

I can put a very nice, even matte finish if it is thought that it would perform better.

Although surface tension is explained as "resistance" causing water to bead into the smallest possible area, in the box I ship the props in I have put in a few opinions of how to protect the prop and gain more surface tension by using rain-x.

My thoughts are like this: If the water resists the prop as it enters and is in the water (even if it is only one blade at a time) the added surface tension will aide in some very small (perhaps insignificant) way to help push. Does anyone Think I'm Looney :lol: for thinking this way?

(If you say I'm Looney and then you try the rain-x then........... ...........

Thank you to all who have taken the time to educate the ignorant

Steve

 

[Ron Olson]

There will be a fast learning curve here. Joining sites like this one will help immensely. You'll find out that Prather props are a constant pitch whereas Octura's have a progressive pitch. Prather SS props are a good place to start, they can take an hold a better edge plus be thinned more than a Beryllium Copper prop. I've seen props on an outrigger fold up from being too thin, you have to find that happy medium.

I watched Mark Sholund check out an Octura X440/3 prop at a race. He found that each blade had a different pitch. This will something for you to look at while doing your testing.

Loonie? You haven't seen some of the Loonie things that we have! You're not even in the Ballpark! :lol:

 

[anthony_marquart]

MAKE A PRATHER 215 AND I'LL BUY ONE FROM YOU TO GIVE IT A TRY. IT'S REAL POPULAR ON THE .12 RIGGERS. (AND SPORT HYDROS?)

 

[AndyBrown]

Ron,

All Prather Props are progressive pitch.

All Octura props are also progressive pitch, however some of them are extreamly progressive and some have only a very small amount of progression.

A prop with no progression would not work.

 

[aamick1971]

hey steve,

i bashed you on ebay,sorry about that i guess some of us owe you an apology!!!

i would like to try one of your props!i run the s-215 pitch down to 2.201 on my tunnel hull. i have a copy of it,but i am interested in one of s-215 let me know of a price for it.

thanks,

allen

 

[[email protected]]

I have put in a few opinions of how to protect the prop and gain more surface tension by using rain-x.

My thoughts are like this: If the water resists the prop as it enters and is in the water (even if it is only one blade at a time) the added surface tension will aide in some very small (perhaps insignificant) way to help push.

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Steve,

it couldn't hurt to try it. Many racers are always looking for an edge. Guys put all sorts of polish under their hulls like Rain-X, Pledge, various waxes etc...

The r/c car racers will cheat and put sun tan lotion on the tires for better traction, that however is illegal, or was when I raced.

 

[spd-props]

rcboats2,

Interesting enough my first gas boat was the Wicked Angel from Megatech. I cracked the hull twice at the mounting of the grease shaft. Anyway, I spoke to John Many. He is the Designer of the boat and I if I remember correctly; he is Megatech's head engineer. With regard to your comments on many racers putting all sorts of wax type coatings on their boats, Mr. Many let me in on an interesting tip: As you view a boat (in the specific case we were discussing it was a V hull) at full plane, keep a mental note on where the hull actually touches the water. Then........drum roll please....... use 320 grit sandpaper and in one direction only- front to back scuff the hull surface.

His explanation was as follows:

The scuffmarks on the hull WILL create bubbles on the surface of the water, allowing the boat to plane on a sheet of bubbles. Less resistance on the hull surface will allow the boat to go faster. He also told me NOT to wax or polish the underside at all but to only scuff the planeing surface. His reasoning for this was that wax, polish etc. creates surface tension. Also called resistance. This resistance causes the water to occupy as little of the surface as possible, holding the water in a given position. Using applications of substances that cause resistance of any type are no good for going fast.

Considering my meager knowledge base It sounds logical, but that is for you pro guys to decide. I just thought I'd pass on a tip I got from someone who claims to know what he is talking about.

Steve

 

[spd-props]

hey steve,i bashed you on ebay,sorry about that i guess some of us owe you an apology!!!

i would like to try one of your props!i run the s-215 pitch down to 2.201 on my tunnel hull. i have a copy of it,but i am interested in one of s-215 let me know of a price for it.

  thanks,

    allen

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accepted. no big deal. I set a dumb price, you spoke your mind. I'll run some 215's hopefully next week.

Steve

 

[jstew0903]

Hey Steve I would like to get in line for one of the 215 props when you have them done. Let me know when you know a price. for them.

Jason

 

[[email protected]]

rcboats2,With regard to your comments on many racers putting all sorts of wax type coatings on their boats,  Mr. Many let me in on an interesting tip: As you view a boat (in the specific case we were discussing it was a V hull) at full plane, keep a mental note on where the hull actually touches the water. Then........drum roll please....... use 320 grit sandpaper and in one direction only- front to back scuff the hull surface.

His explanation was as follows:

The scuffmarks on the hull WILL create bubbles on the surface of the water, allowing the boat to plane on a sheet of bubbles. Less resistance on the hull surface will allow the boat to go faster. He also told me NOT to wax or polish the underside at all but to only scuff the planeing surface. His reasoning for this was that wax, polish etc. creates surface tension. Also called resistance. This resistance causes the water to occupy as little of the surface as possible, holding the water in a given position. Using applications of substances that cause resistance of any type are no good for going fast.

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Steve,

most of the guys do the sanding, some will tell you they are "blue printing" the bottom, some will tell you it's for more speed like your friend told you. Basically his theory is the same as mine "More speed" w/o the hyphthitcal explaination....LOL :lol:

As for the waxing, I've had this conversation w/a lot of boaters and it seems to be a 50-50 split. SOme say it creates drag, some say it creates more speed. I guess to each there own on that theory.