A $99.00 rc boat prop on ebay

[spd-props]

yes, your right. I initially thought I could make a few bucks. but the more and more people

(Internet and otherwise) I meet, it seems making friends and helping to see just how fast people can get these things to go is what is MOST important. In time (a long time ) if my props are truly any good I will recoup my investment and hopefully have a few friends to hang with. Admittedly it was selfish to set such a high initial price. but such is life. This time I started it a $1.00. and I will get an opportunity to see IF my efforts are of any REAL value. I am hopeful the people here are as the other R/C people Ive met (boat,cars and planes). Super friendly and willing to help. This is all going to start fairly slow, I have a full time job and a family (just like everyone else) so if I'm allowed (by my wife) I try to get going on the larger props as soon as I see if the smaller ones are any good. Judgeing by the posts here, no one is intersted in concentricity or symmetry. so its very possible that my props are junk. BUT I may get lucky and will have made something new and different that actually works

hope to see you on ebay.......

PS. although no exacly as I planned, I wanted to get lots of attention. hopefully starting every prop I process at $1.00 and letting the bidders decide the price will show my true intentions.

Steve

 

[Terry Flynn]

Why don't you ask to see what some of the more popular props are from the people on this forum and do a few of them, offer them for sale on this forum for a fair price, not ebay and ask them to give you an honest opinion. you have nothing to loose if there good then they should sell good? And at least you'll have documentation on them.

Just a thought.

Terry

 

[Watercadet]

Why don't you ask to see what some of the more popular props are from the people on this forum and do a few of them, offer them for sale on this forum for a fair price, not ebay and ask them to give you an honest opinion. you have nothing to loose if there good then they should sell good? And at least you'll have documentation on them. Just a thought.

Terry

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Second.

Steve you seem like a nice enough guy and that will get you far in this brotherhood of boat racing.

Concentricity and symmetry are very important but most of us have other-perhaps more threatning- things to consider so a lot of us open the prop bag, sharpen and balance a prop then tighten the prop nut and run. I believe that there are more advantages in a prop setup than any other single thing. That said I am willing to pay Mark Sholund and Andy Brown to prep my racing props. But as mentioned they are not all that expensive for proven work. Sholund even puts a nice shine on his.

My prop of interest: X440/3. Do you have to write a new program for each prop or is the system adaptable?

Adam

 

[spd-props]

hi, that sounds llike a good idea, but im not sure if I can do any other brand of prop. (i havent tried) I would be very interested in doing one for somebody just for the feedback. like I said before, I am not pro boater, just a macininist, that got into the boats just enough to get caught up it prop portion of the whole deal.

If anyone can trust the dope who thought he could ask such a ridiculas price for a simple prop, i would like to try.

it seems I'm famous. I googled myself and found other boards where I am a conversation. nothing good at all, but its too late now. Its unfortunate that most are unintersted in anything other then the price.

steve

 

[spd-props]

Why don't you ask to see what some of the more popular props are from the people on this forum and do a few of them, offer them for sale on this forum for a fair price, not ebay and ask them to give you an honest opinion. you have nothing to loose if there good then they should sell good? And at least you'll have documentation on them. Just a thought.

Terry

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Second.

Steve you seem like a nice enough guy and that will get you far in this brotherhood of boat racing.

Concentricity and symmetry are very important but most of us have other-perhaps more threatning- things to consider so a lot of us open the prop bag, sharpen and balance a prop then tighten the prop nut and run. I believe that there are more advantages in a prop setup than any other single thing. That said I am willing to pay Mark Sholund and Andy Brown to prep my racing props. But as mentioned they are not all that expensive for proven work. Sholund even puts a nice shine on his.

My prop of interest: X440/3. Do you have to write a new program for each prop or is the system adaptable?

Adam

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ok, i suck and I'm a jerk for what i tried to do. I should have started it at a buck and everything would be fine but, to respond to your comment, i have never tried an octura prop, so i dont know if i could or not. My machine is not CNC, I set the pitch and indicate the prop edge to witin .002 TIR (total indicator runout) then I grind it. (yes, its adaptable)

Perhaps Mr. Sholund or Mr. Brown would look at one of my props and if not themself, some one reputable to run them and let them tell me what kind of prop i have made.

Steve

 

[Watercadet]

hi, that sounds llike a good idea, but im not sure if I can do any other brand of prop. (i havent tried) I would be very interested in doing one for somebody just for the feedback. like I said before, I am not pro boater, just a macininist, that got into the boats just enough to get caught up it prop portion of the whole deal. If anyone can trust the dope who thought he could ask such a ridiculas price for a simple prop, i would like to try.

it seems I'm famous. I googled myself and found other boards where I am a conversation. nothing good at all, but its too late now. Its unfortunate that most are unintersted in anything other then the price.

steve

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In the information age names can be cleaned up as fast as they are sullied. Why not try an other size of Prather prop like the 215 that JD mentioned. They have the same progressive pitch ratio I think :blink:

Adam

 

[Terry Flynn]

Why don't you ask to see what some of the more popular props are from the people on this forum and do a few of them, offer them for sale on this forum for a fair price, not ebay and ask them to give you an honest opinion. you have nothing to loose if there good then they should sell good? And at least you'll have documentation on them. Just a thought.

Terry

78617[/snapback]

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Second.

Steve you seem like a nice enough guy and that will get you far in this brotherhood of boat racing.

Concentricity and symmetry are very important but most of us have other-perhaps more threatning- things to consider so a lot of us open the prop bag, sharpen and balance a prop then tighten the prop nut and run. I believe that there are more advantages in a prop setup than any other single thing. That said I am willing to pay Mark Sholund and Andy Brown to prep my racing props. But as mentioned they are not all that expensive for proven work. Sholund even puts a nice shine on his.

My prop of interest: X440/3. Do you have to write a new program for each prop or is the system adaptable?

Adam

78644[/snapback]

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ok, i suck and I'm a jerk for what i tried to do. I should have started it at a buck and everything would be fine but, to respond to your comment, i have never tried an octura prop, so i dont know if i could or not. My machine is not CNC, I set the pitch and indicate the prop edge to witin .002 TIR (total indicator runout) then I grind it. (yes, its adaptable)

Perhaps Mr. Sholund or Mr. Brown would look at one of my props and if not themself, some one reputable to run them and let them tell me what kind of prop i have made.

Steve

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Wow Relax no one said you suck or that you were a jerk.

What I said about asking what props people run was me just trying to help you maybe make a prop that someone could use and give you a fair chance on proving everybody wrong it wasn't intended to take a shot at you. I don't believe in doing that to people. everybody has the chance to make things better. If not then everyone would be stuck with the same old boring stuff. I hope that it works out for you.

Terry

 

[Watercadet]

ok, i suck and I'm a jerk for what i tried to do. I should have started it at a buck and everything would be fine but, to respond to your comment, i have never tried an octura prop, so i dont know if i could or not. My machine is not CNC, I set the pitch and indicate the prop edge to witin .002 TIR (total indicator runout) then I grind it. (yes, its adaptable)

Perhaps Mr. Sholund or Mr. Brown would look at one of my props and if not themself, some one reputable to run them and let them tell me what kind of prop i have made.

Steve

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Don't think you suck or are a jerk

Adam

 

[spd-props]

hi, that sounds llike a good idea, but im not sure if I can do any other brand of prop. (i havent tried) I would be very interested in doing one for somebody just for the feedback. like I said before, I am not pro boater, just a macininist, that got into the boats just enough to get caught up it prop portion of the whole deal. If anyone can trust the dope who thought he could ask such a ridiculas price for a simple prop, i would like to try.

it seems I'm famous. I googled myself and found other boards where I am a conversation. nothing good at all, but its too late now. Its unfortunate that most are unintersted in anything other then the price.

steve

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In the information age names can be cleaned up as fast as they are sullied. Why not try an other size of Prather prop like the 215 that JD mentioned. They have the same progressive pitch ratio I think :blink:

Adam

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adam,

215's claim a 2.5 pitch, I can do those, i have 4 or 5 SS here, now. I just started a batch of 220 SS and I need to finish those 1st. A curious note. the pitch between a 220 Bronze and a 220 Stainless is different. I can not grind the bronze and then jump to the stainless without resetting my grinder. I am most confused by this

the pitch varies(i indicate each one at the beginning of a run.....ha ha this is only the 2nd one) and they are apporximatly .025 different ( thats almost 1/32 of an inch to those non macinists reading this (.031 = 1/32)). I dont remember right off the top of my head which has the higher pitch, but they are different.

 

[Watercadet]

adam, 215's claim a 2.5 pitch, I can do those, i have 4 or 5 SS here, now. I just started a batch of 220 SS and I need to finish those 1st. A curious note. the pitch between a 220 Bronze and a 220 Stainless is different. I can not grind the bronze and then jump to the stainless without resetting my grinder. I am most confused by this 

the pitch varies(i indicate each one at the beginning of a run.....ha ha this is only the 2nd one) and they are apporximatly .025 different ( thats almost 1/32 of an inch to those non macinists reading this (.031 = 1/32)). I dont remember right off the top of my head which has the higher pitch, but they are different

That is most distressing :blink: :blink: My only explanition would be casting process flaws. The same number prop should be the same prop regaurdless of it's composition.

Adam

 

[Watercadet]

P.S. I have a .12 rigger that likes S215's...

 

[Jerry Dunlap]

Greetings Steve,

I would like to comment on your e-bay presentation. Very well done. Some of the information provided about model boat offerings is really rather funny. This was definitely not the case in your information. It was well written.

One of the issues of any hobby/sport is placing a value on a product. I have been designing and building model tunnel boats since 1975. Jeez, that's going on nearly 30 years!! On occassion, I do some custom building. I consider myself a skilled craftsperson when it comes to building model tunnel boats. Most skilled craft workers in my region make at least $20/hr. A typical model boat I build costs about $50 for materials and takes 30 hours to build. I don't think I could sell many 30" tunnel boats for $650. But, that's a realistic price considering the experience/skill level of the builder.

JD

 

[Watercadet]

Greetings Steve,
I would like to comment on your e-bay presentation.  Very well done.  Some of the information provided about model boat offerings is really rather funny.  This was definitely not the case in your information.  It was well written.

One of the issues of any hobby/sport is placing a value on a product.  I have been designing and building model tunnel boats since 1975.  Jeez, that's going on nearly 30 years!!  On occassion, I do some custom building.    I consider myself a skilled craftsperson when it comes to building model tunnel boats.  Most skilled craft workers in my region make at least $20/hr.  A typical model boat I build costs about $50 for materials and takes 30 hours to build.  I don't think I could sell many 30" tunnel boats for $650.  But, that's a realistic price considering the experience/skill level of the builder. 

JD

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JD is that 30 hours of building time or is that including some curing time? I would think that you have come up with some shortcuts in your time. I know that it is a time consuming proces to build a boat right especially to your exacting standerds. A tunnel custom built by you is prolly actually worth $650 though You are really world famous

This is really cool that I can talk to you and ask you questions like this. I have been reading RCBM since '92 and have always enjoyed your articles. OK enough fawning -

Adam

 

[Jerry Dunlap]

Re: 30 hours

The 30 hours does not include curing time for the epoxy. However, it does include building the hull/radio box/ installing servos/rigging the running hardware/basic hull preparation for painting. Remember, each piece is cut separately.

JD

 

[Watercadet]

Re:  30 hours
The 30 hours does not include curing time for the epoxy.  However, it does include building the hull/radio box/ installing servos/rigging the running hardware/basic hull preparation for painting.  Remember, each piece is cut separately. 

JD

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Adam

 

[[email protected]]

Steve,

I have a question about your props. How did you model them or find examples of what the "ideal" prop would be for us boaters? The work looks really good and from the explaination you obviously know what your doing. SO, with that said what are your intentions after this prop sells? Will you be doing them regularly? Or if someone mails you a new prop will you cut and B/S it to their liking?

Thanks

RG

[email protected]

 

[Heartbeat]

Steve,
I have a question about your props.  How did you model them or find examples of what the "ideal" prop would be for us boaters?  The work looks really good and from the explaination you obviously know what your doing.  SO, with that said what are your intentions after this prop sells?  Will you be doing them regularly?  Or if someone mails you a new prop will you cut and B/S it to their liking?

Thanks

RG

[email protected]

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And how much if we mailed you a prop?

Mike

BTW I don't think anybody called you a jerk and most of us would like to try one, but not a $99.99

 

[spd-props]

Steve,
I have a question about your props.  How did you model them or find examples of what the "ideal" prop would be for us boaters?  The work looks really good and from the explaination you obviously know what your doing.  SO, with that said what are your intentions after this prop sells?  Will you be doing them regularly?  Or if someone mails you a new prop will you cut and B/S it to their liking?

Thanks

RG

[email protected]

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RG,

I do not Model the props after a "master" as I believe you intend to say, I indicate the prop (or the 1st of however many I intend to grind- if you look above in these posts you will see that I have discovered variations from bronze to stainless of the same ID # ex. (#220)) I use a .0005 indicator to match the existing profile of the leading edge (as close to the edge as I can get). When I get the readings on the indicator to within .002 I rough grind the leading edges. I believe this accounts for casting variations from lot to lot and ensures the closest possible match to the actual form of prop. Then I set up for the exit edges, I get the edge close, then very lightly grind the edge. If it grinds evenly across the entire surface, I grind additional material to clean up the edges completely. Then I remove the casting flash and rough polish the entire prop. To and from the balancing fixture and zillion times during this portion of the process. After rough polish, and the balance is good I finish polish, then I regrind all the edges to make sure they are still symmetrical and to reestablish concentricity. Then.... It sits there in the pretty box and foam until somebody wants to give it a home

Just because you mentioned it, ill say something about it--- I do not know what I am doing I am very much still experimenting with all this. If they sell, I would like to think that I would make as many as can be sold, but as I Have be made to understand I will not be able to make a living at it. SO the processing will be constant but most likely not in the highest of quantities. Perhaps 2 or 3 of one size at a time, then another size.

As far as modifications go, I do not know much about them (nothing really, but I have seen a "Texas cut" but I do not know why its done or how to do it correctly. and I have no idea what B/S stands for ). This is why (as I explain in my ebay auction) I leave the modifications to the individual to complete. I am able to change the angle of the exit edge; I can make it straight across upto approximately 20'. That is high on the outside and 3/16 deeper at the hub. If you can call that a modification, that’s all I can (or know how) to do.

BLA BLA BLA....

Steve

 

[AndyBrown]

Andy Brown Sharpened & Balanced (includes thinning) P-215 bronze $29.55

P-215 stainless $35.35

We do it full time and have 15 years experience.

Check us out at CMDRACING.COM

Our Custom props hold most of the Major Speed records including the New 110 mph Gas rigger pass made by Micheal Bontoft.

 

[topfuel443]

(includes thinning) 

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Thats the key word, a thin Prop, is a FAST prop. You can grind on the outer edge all day, but if you leave the blade thick, youre shooting yourself in the foot.

something to think about.

~James