1982 U-13 Gilmore Special

[Samuel Hagan JR]

I got one last question. The suport bars in the back, that go from the transom to the wing. Does it have to have those support bars?

 

[Hydro Junkie]

Technically, it should for scale purposes. That being said, I'd check with your club or the IMPBA scale chairman as they would know more about what's required than I do

 

[Mike McKnight]

According to Steve Reynolds in a conversation with him in 2010, he said when that boat ran as the 78 Circus the red that was on it, not pink, was all done with rattle cans about a week and a half before the San Diego race. He also told me that the stuffing box and shaft log had a major leak problem dating back to when it was the AB Natural Light. They had to wait and leave it on the crane until the last minute to put the boat in the water and then he had to jump in it and start it and get it on plane quickly or the thing would sink. Still he drove it to third place finish in it's one and only appearance as the Circus.

 

[Dasboatman]

Hey Sam,

I raced Orange and yellow outriggers for many years, so I too have a soft spot for Orange. Orange and Blue are also University of Florida colors. I'm pretty much all yellow for Sport boats these days - bright , easy to see and be seen by others. One color also limits the torture of me painting somewhat.

I wouldn't include the braces on either side of the vertical fin for a race boat. Looks like a good place to hang up fingers during a launch. Mark is referring to R/C Unlimited's rules. For IMPBA and NAMBA scale racing - I don't believe anyone would care if they didn't appear on your Gilmore.

CHEERS !!! Bob

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

Hey Sam,

I raced Orange and yellow outriggers for many years, so I too have a soft spot for Orange. Orange and Blue are also University of Florida colors. I'm pretty much all yellow for Sport boats these days - bright , easy to see and be seen by others. One color also limits the torture of me painting somewhat.

I wouldn't include the braces on either side of the vertical fin for a race boat. Looks like a good place to hang up fingers during a launch. Mark is referring to R/C Unlimited's rules. For IMPBA and NAMBA scale racing - I don't believe anyone would care if they didn't appear on your Gilmore.

CHEERS !!! Bob

I didn't think so. I don't think anyone would care also. I ask my Scale Director next time I talk to him.

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

According to Steve Reynolds in a conversation with him in 2010, he said when that boat ran as the 78 Circus the red that was on it, not pink, was all done with rattle cans about a week and a half before the San Diego race. He also told me that the stuffing box and shaft log had a major leak problem dating back to when it was the AB Natural Light. They had to wait and leave it on the crane until the last minute to put the boat in the water and then he had to jump in it and start it and get it on plane quickly or the thing would sink. Still he drove it to third place finish in it's one and only appearance as the Circus.

I just ordered the paint sheet from Newton Marine today. Hopefully that helps. Mike I may miss understand but I'm going to do the Gilmore.

 

[Hydro Junkie]

Actually, Bob, I was referring the fact that he's working an a "scale" boat, not any one set of rules. That is why I said "technically", because some will say the struts need to be there to be true scale. If his club and the IMPBA don't object, he can do as he wishes and it's all good. I'm working on a pair of 7207 Cott's Beverage boats, one glass and the other wood. Mine will have the tail struts on it but they will not go to the transom but, rather, to their scale location in 1974 and that's through the nontrips where they extend above the deck

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

My Biggest concern is if I have to have the rear struts getting the cowling off and on is going to be a pain. I'll have to figure out a way to do that.

 

[Duck899]

Sam, Here is how I did the struts for the fin on the Bardahl, very easy to remove the rear cowl to do strut changes. Some guys use ball links at the bottom instead of the thread like I did. Solder the top clevis to the rod.

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

Thanks for the picture.

 

[Dasboatman]

Hey Sam,

Sounds like you are planning for the cowl to come off in one piece. If so, I don't think you'll want to be attempting to attach anything other than getting the cowl on and the boat into the water. Those two struts could become a significant PIA.

Rob,

I like the braces for your Bardahl. I have a 6402 Miss US and a 6466 Miss Liberty here that both have separate rear cowls, and braces to support huge vertical fins. Where did you get the bracket for the installation you showed??

Mark,

It's pretty early here, and I haven't finished my first cup of coffee yet. Don't get a knot in your shorts. I met Sam in Evansville this past Sept. He has an absolutely beautiful Doug Shepherd Bud that is very ornate. All I'm trying to do here is to simplify his life and help him get a "Race Boat" together that follows the "Peter / KISS Principle" - - not a hangar queen. I'll wager he'll have his Gilmore in the water well before your Miss Cott Beverages see paint, much less water.

CHEERS !!! Bob

 

[FloridaScaleBoater]

OH,,,, How I knew this was coming!!!!!

Bob is correct,,, some of us build "1/8th Scale Race Boats" and some of the look good

And others build "Scale Boats that Race"

And then there are others that build "Scale Boats"

Can someone please help me get rid of these lines????

 

[Duck899]

Bob, the brackets are made from Dubro landing gear retainers. The top clevis has those little retainers on the pins so they don't come apart.

 

[Greg Wannamaker]

Back wing supports pros and cons, like others have said if you are looking to build a one piece cowl they would be a problem but if you are going to have a two piece cowl as both Rob and I do on his bardahl and my nitrogen the supports do more than add a scale appearance they will protect that rear fin in the event of a roll over or blow off, as much as we all hate for that to happen, it does and will, just something to think about as you prepare for your build!

 

[Hydro Junkie]

No knots here, just six boats that I need to get finished BEFORE February 8. You could very well be right about beating me to the water and that's fine with me. I get the KISS principle, it's all good as long as the powers that be go along with it. That was the gist of my posts. In my case, having a few scale boats under my belt, detailing is a must and, with a deadline of three months, it's thrash time

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

Bob the Gilmore Boat is going to be a Doug Shepard hull also. The Cowling will be one piece so I think ill leave the struts off until someone says something. The Bud is getting a major fixing over the winter. I have a ton of stuff that needs done.

 

[Douglas P Shepherd]

The cowl is full lenght and also is the full width of the center section. So adding the supports to the rear will be a no problem. All will come off when cowl is removed from hull. thanks Doug Shepherd

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

I got the paint sheet today from Newton Marine today. Holy cow that's a lot of work.

 

[Hydro Junkie]

That's not so bad. Have you looked at some of the other boats out there? The 2004-06 Oberto would be a taping nightmare with it's multiple odd shaped green areas. The 1988-90 Circus isn't much better. You want a real challenge, try the 1974 Miss Technicolor. It's the same basic hull as you're doing but would take 13 colors in addition to clear to properly paint.

 

[Dasboatman]

Hey Sam,

I built a 7474 U-74 VALU*MART in 1976 - 1977 and it was all paint - K&B Superpoxy. No striping tape, no Vinyl. Gilmore Special is a piec of cake. Common, you can do it.

First test run was the day before our youngest was born. Tested with my good Friend Frank Blanchard at the ODMBA Club lake in Chesapeake, VA.

Doug,

I'll look forward to seeing the new hull in Evansville in Sept. CHEERS !!! Bob