1969 Pay N Pak redux

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Glenn 787

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2004
Messages
1,173
After having my Pak sitting on a shelve for the past few years and not running scale at all I'm finally going to run again next year. Instead of cleaning this up I'm going to make it into a plug and hope to have a carbon fiber version ready for the NAMBA Nats.

In the mean time I have a PT Coors Light about ready to go.

IMG_04341024x683_zpsae679a01.jpg
 
Glenn, I hope you make more than one of those boats from your molds because I know of a bunch of people out my way that are looking for one right now! Don Ferrette is patching up his IMPBA record holding Pak this winter from some "altercations " at the Fall Nats. Best running Scale boat I've ever seen.

Dick Tyndall
 
Hmmm.....more than one? If it turns out to be fast I might be afraid of getting beat by one :unsure:
 
For what's it's worth I spent a good while getting mine to where it is now, by far the most time spent getting it right than ANY other scale that I've ever run.
 
After having my Pak sitting on a shelve for the past few years and not running scale at all I'm finally going to run again next year. Instead of cleaning this up I'm going to make it into a plug and hope to have a carbon fiber version ready for the NAMBA Nats.

In the mean time I have a PT Coors Light about ready to go.

IMG_04341024x683_zpsae679a01.jpg
I was wondering if you were going to run this boat again. If you wasn't going to race it I was thinking about building me another one to race. I was also thinking that you were only going to race gas.
 
Don, from the first test runs I made a couple running surface changes and added a Tyndall turn fin. Was very happy with the results.

Roger, go ahead and build another. It's funny I always like the boat and when I seen one of your old Pak's on Ebay I thought you were going to run a different hull so I built mine. The only firm plans I have for next year is getting ready for the Nats.

Rob, its wood, wood over foam and glass over foam.
 
Glenn - Found an old movie of the full size boat running. They were running over 200mph back then. Were they powered with an Allison back in those days? Neat boat.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
If I remember right, the Eagle Electric/Pak team always ran a Merlin EXCEPT for the cabover 1970 Pak. The 70 Pak ran twin Hemis, a set up that didn't work so the boat was refitted with a Merlin and rear cockpit for the 71 season and has remained basically unchanged since.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Glenn, I hope you make more than one of those boats from your molds because I know of a bunch of people out my way that are looking for one right now! Don Ferrette is patching up his IMPBA record holding Pak this winter from some "altercations " at the Fall Nats. Best running Scale boat I've ever seen.

Dick Tyndall
Ha, that is what happens when you run someone over Dick, ! HOLD your lane !!!
 
Glenn, I hope you make more than one of those boats from your molds because I know of a bunch of people out my way that are looking for one right now! Don Ferrette is patching up his IMPBA record holding Pak this winter from some "altercations " at the Fall Nats. Best running Scale boat I've ever seen.

Dick Tyndall
Ha, that is what happens when you run someone over Dick, ! HOLD your lane !!!
Joe,,,, Must I break out the PHOTO sequence from a few years ago at the Fall Nat's????

No BONZI moves either!!!!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Glenn, I hope you make more than one of those boats from your molds because I know of a bunch of people out my way that are looking for one right now! Don Ferrette is patching up his IMPBA record holding Pak this winter from some "altercations " at the Fall Nats. Best running Scale boat I've ever seen.

Dick Tyndall
Ha, that is what happens when you run someone over Dick, ! HOLD your lane !!!
Since you went there........

You slid out big time at buoy #5 then cranked it back in cutting me off as I made the inside pass coming to #6 and gave me nowhere to go. Numerous people that came up to me afterwards all said basically the same thing and to quote one person "he left a hole big enough to put a truck through, can't believe he cut you off like that". I should have known better and waited to pass you on the outside like the heat before................
 
Don, from the first test runs I made a couple running surface changes and added a Tyndall turn fin. Was very happy with the results.

Roger, go ahead and build another. It's funny I always like the boat and when I seen one of your old Pak's on Ebay I thought you were going to run a different hull so I built mine. The only firm plans I have for next year is getting ready for the Nats.

Rob, its wood, wood over foam and glass over foam.
Yeah I had to make underside changes on mine as well, it's also very particular about what prop goes on it. Tyndall turn fin as all my scales of course!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I have my own glass1/8 scale of the same boat i built here in oz 2 years ago .i found i had to move the center of gravity back from where i had it by moving the engine rearward to get it to handle well , the opposite to all of my other scale boats.its the fastest 1/8 scale ive had although ive only run it twice. I plan on building a gas scale version next.
 
Don, from the first test runs I made a couple running surface changes and added a Tyndall turn fin. Was very happy with the results.

Roger, go ahead and build another. It's funny I always like the boat and when I seen one of your old Pak's on Ebay I thought you were going to run a different hull so I built mine. The only firm plans I have for next year is getting ready for the Nats.

Rob, its wood, wood over foam and glass over foam.
Yeah I had to make underside changes on mine as well, it's also very particular about what prop goes on it. Tyndall turn fin as all my scales of course!
I'm currently going to be making some changes to the running surfaces as well. Even at sea level, it rides to hard on the water. Strut is neutral with an X-457/3 prop. Water splashes up between the outriggers at times except at full throttle.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Don, from the first test runs I made a couple running surface changes and added a Tyndall turn fin. Was very happy with the results.

Roger, go ahead and build another. It's funny I always like the boat and when I seen one of your old Pak's on Ebay I thought you were going to run a different hull so I built mine. The only firm plans I have for next year is getting ready for the Nats.

Rob, its wood, wood over foam and glass over foam.
Yeah I had to make underside changes on mine as well, it's also very particular about what prop goes on it. Tyndall turn fin as all my scales of course!
I'm currently going to be making some changes to the running surfaces as well. Even at sea level, it rides to hard on the water. Strut is neutral with an X-457/3 prop. Water splashes up between the outriggers at times except at full throttle.
What is the 'Ride-Height' Rob? Distance from the bottom of the sponsons to the base-line of the tub? It should be 7/8 - 1.0" if it's normal 15# weight. How wide are the running surfaces? You can stop the water from coming up between the sponsons and the tub by putting a small step on the inside edges of the sponsons, or better yet use a negative angle, and create 'strakes' that turn the water back down... then in no time, you'll be 'trolling' at the start... with a couple of other mods...

Best,

DJ

P.S. - Go get em' Glenn... keep me posted.. I'm listening.
 
Rob- You might also try a 255 Prop vs. the three blade. I ran the 255 on that boat and it really hauled the mail. I noticed it seemed a little stuck to the water when I saw you run it at Marysville. I ran the strut at the same depth as the sponsons (can't remember the measurements, but I think it was 7/8" measured to the center line of the shaft at the rear of the strut, and at 0 degrees. In other words no angle on the strut. As for the water splashing up over the "riggers" its caused by the riggers being so thick (top to bottom) I was able to run the boat slow with the set up I mention, but had to seal off the engine compartment around the carb area. I used a coupe pieces of clear plastic attached to the cowl. I noticed those were no longer on the cowl when I saw you in Marysville. Problem is that because of the depth of those riggers on this particular hull, they trip on the water when going slow, and the stream of water goes straight up, and straight down right onto the carb. So when I ran the CMB in it I used the plastic to seal that off. Hope that makes sense. I also ran a "K" motor in it and because the carb sits much higher never had a problem with the water issue. Your new hull (the glass one) notice that the riggers do not stick down so low, so you shouldn't have the problem like you do with this wood hull. The wood hull works fine, just need to make sure you seal off the engine compartment up a bit better, then you can go slower for starts, etc. Its' still one of my all time favorite boats...

DJ, you going to run yours in 2014?

Fred
 
Don, from the first test runs I made a couple running surface changes and added a Tyndall turn fin. Was very happy with the results.

Roger, go ahead and build another. It's funny I always like the boat and when I seen one of your old Pak's on Ebay I thought you were going to run a different hull so I built mine. The only firm plans I have for next year is getting ready for the Nats.

Rob, its wood, wood over foam and glass over foam.
Yeah I had to make underside changes on mine as well, it's also very particular about what prop goes on it. Tyndall turn fin as all my scales of course!
I'm currently going to be making some changes to the running surfaces as well. Even at sea level, it rides to hard on the water. Strut is neutral with an X-457/3 prop. Water splashes up between the outriggers at times except at full throttle.
What is the 'Ride-Height' Rob? Distance from the bottom of the sponsons to the base-line of the tub? It should be 7/8 - 1.0" if it's normal 15# weight. How wide are the running surfaces? You can stop the water from coming up between the sponsons and the tub by putting a small step on the inside edges of the sponsons, or better yet use a negative angle, and create 'strakes' that turn the water back down... then in no time, you'll be 'trolling' at the start... with a couple of other mods...

Best,

DJ

P.S. - Go get em' Glenn... keep me posted.. I'm listening.
Hi David, I just measured the ride height of this Pak and it is exactly 15/16" from the tub to the lowest part of the bottom of the sponsons. The sponsons running surfaces are 3" wide, both sides. Very little dihedral as well. Yes, I'm with you on the small step or splash rail on the inside of the sponsons. I was thinking of adding material to the bottom of both sponsons to add about 1/4" to the inside edges of both sponsons which tapers out to the outside edges and creates some dihedral in the bottoms. Currently there is very little dihedral and the entire sponson (both sides) has a lot of contact area with the water with the 15/16" ride height. The other glass hull I have, has 1.25" of ride height of the sponsons vs the bottom of the hull.

Thanks for the replies.

Rob
 
Rob- You might also try a 255 Prop vs. the three blade. I ran the 255 on that boat and it really hauled the mail. I noticed it seemed a little stuck to the water when I saw you run it at Marysville. I ran the strut at the same depth as the sponsons (can't remember the measurements, but I think it was 7/8" measured to the center line of the shaft at the rear of the strut, and at 0 degrees. In other words no angle on the strut. As for the water splashing up over the "riggers" its caused by the riggers being so thick (top to bottom) I was able to run the boat slow with the set up I mention, but had to seal off the engine compartment around the carb area. I used a coupe pieces of clear plastic attached to the cowl. I noticed those were no longer on the cowl when I saw you in Marysville. Problem is that because of the depth of those riggers on this particular hull, they trip on the water when going slow, and the stream of water goes straight up, and straight down right onto the carb. So when I ran the CMB in it I used the plastic to seal that off. Hope that makes sense. I also ran a "K" motor in it and because the carb sits much higher never had a problem with the water issue. Your new hull (the glass one) notice that the riggers do not stick down so low, so you shouldn't have the problem like you do with this wood hull. The wood hull works fine, just need to make sure you seal off the engine compartment up a bit better, then you can go slower for starts, etc. Its' still one of my all time favorite boats...

DJ, you going to run yours in 2014?

Fred
Thanks Fred, yes, I have more experimenting to do, as well as using some lexan over the carb, etc. I cannot recall if I tried a 255 yet but will for sure in the future.
 
Don, from the first test runs I made a couple running surface changes and added a Tyndall turn fin. Was very happy with the results.

Roger, go ahead and build another. It's funny I always like the boat and when I seen one of your old Pak's on Ebay I thought you were going to run a different hull so I built mine. The only firm plans I have for next year is getting ready for the Nats.

Rob, its wood, wood over foam and glass over foam.
Yeah I had to make underside changes on mine as well, it's also very particular about what prop goes on it. Tyndall turn fin as all my scales of course!
I'm currently going to be making some changes to the running surfaces as well. Even at sea level, it rides to hard on the water. Strut is neutral with an X-457/3 prop. Water splashes up between the outriggers at times except at full throttle.
What is the 'Ride-Height' Rob? Distance from the bottom of the sponsons to the base-line of the tub? It should be 7/8 - 1.0" if it's normal 15# weight. How wide are the running surfaces? You can stop the water from coming up between the sponsons and the tub by putting a small step on the inside edges of the sponsons, or better yet use a negative angle, and create 'strakes' that turn the water back down... then in no time, you'll be 'trolling' at the start... with a couple of other mods...

Best,

DJ

P.S. - Go get em' Glenn... keep me posted.. I'm listening.
Hi David, I just measured the ride height of this Pak and it is exactly 15/16" from the tub to the lowest part of the bottom of the sponsons. The sponsons running surfaces are 3" wide, both sides. Very little dihedral as well. Yes, I'm with you on the small step or splash rail on the inside of the sponsons. I was thinking of adding material to the bottom of both sponsons to add about 1/4" to the inside edges of both sponsons which tapers out to the outside edges and creates some dihedral in the bottoms. Currently there is very little dihedral and the entire sponson (both sides) has a lot of contact area with the water with the 15/16" ride height. The other glass hull I have, has 1.25" of ride height of the sponsons vs the bottom of the hull.

Thanks for the replies.

Rob

Send me a PM Rob... I'm not totally familiar with your hull. I think it is the one that Bontoft built, then went to Fred, then went to David, then went to you. 15/16'" 'ride-height' is exactly in the middle of my comment. I have more input that I will willingly share. Go Pak!

Best,

DJ
 
Back
Top