Pinckert Coyote, Long Wheelbase

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David Bryant

Well-Known Member
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Sep 7, 2011
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I'm gearing-up to finally build a brand-new in-box legacy Pinckert Coyote .67/.80 outrigger kit. I purchased this custom built kit from Don back in October 1987, and has sat in my garage since. It will be powered by a brand-new in-box (1987) Andy Brown modded Rossi .80, or possibly a brand-new Picco .67 Silver head (both engines share the same mount dimensions). It's an extremely nicely built boat.

I was analyzing the "old-school" dampened motor-mount assembly. It has two 1/4 inch aluminum plate sections, drilled and tapped to engine dimensions. The aluminum sections are also drilled and tapped to accept four each rubber dampeners. Each aluminum section is secured to a single solid oak hardwood wedge base. The oak wedge is then epoxied to the floor of the engine compartment. Bolts are then inserted thru the hull bottom, up through the oak base and thread into the bottom portion of each rubber isolator. Looking closely at the oak base it's sligthly warped (not sure if this is an issue?)

However I'm not sure whether I should use this engine mount assembly? Or whether to just use a current design isolated side-wall based mount? I believe this hull fuselage is built with 5 inch sidewalls (I'll have to measure precisely). Who is the best source for a new current sidewall-based engine mount? Andy Brown? Aeromarine?

(sorry for double post)

PicnkertCoyote_Rossi80_MotorMount_Oct1987_01.jpg
 
I too had the same mounts in a 67 Daytona but I would use the nw Speedmaster , Seaducer , or Accutech mounts myself as it is a lot easier to clean the tub properly and avoid oil soaking of the wood over time . i have a scratch built Coyote copy / bash that has some changed dimensions that i will be running a VAC 91 in for the Single X hydro class in Namba D -3 . The boat was first put together in around 86 !!
 
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I've run mounts like that in scale hulls before without problems. And actually that is how those isolation dampers are supposed to be used, the way we have them in typical side rail mounting is not what they were designed for. ;)
 
I've run mounts like that in scale hulls before without problems. And actually that is how those isolation dampers are supposed to be used, the way we have them in typical side rail mounting is not what they were designed for. ;)
Don ive seen those rubbers used mounted in the side of auto condensers and oil coolers for years. If I were to use the orginal setup id lose 2 rubbers 6 is overkill on any motor
 
I've run mounts like that in scale hulls before without problems. And actually that is how those isolation dampers are supposed to be used, the way we have them in typical side rail mounting is not what they were designed for. ;)
Don ive seen those rubbers used mounted in the side of auto condensers and oil coolers for years. If I were to use the orginal setup id lose 2 rubbers 6 is overkill on any motor
they've been used since the middle 70's in cars that i know of. for maximum stability & isolation, they should be mounted vertically. but the auto industry will use them in ANY position.......if nothing else the mount block will add strength & stability to the hull, the jae's use a mount block (2 separate blocks/smaller isolaters) setup similar in concept to your's.
 
My old 90 Mongoose has 6 on edge, mounted in tapered blocks. Held in place by nylon bolts thru the bottom of tub. Never had a problem with vibration. B)
 
I've run mounts like that in scale hulls before without problems. And actually that is how those isolation dampers are supposed to be used, the way we have them in typical side rail mounting is not what they were designed for. ;)
Don ive seen those rubbers used mounted in the side of auto condensers and oil coolers for years. If I were to use the orginal setup id lose 2 rubbers 6 is overkill on any motor
Mike 6 seems to be just right for a big block CMB in a rigger to provide dampening and rigidity as well . My mount in the mono with 4 has a lot of movement , it works but does move a bit . The twin mounts with 9 are necessary in my opinion . my 45 SG and 67 SG mounts with 4 grommets will be updated to 6 as i am having problems with the 4 . Just my experience with them is all .
 
A similar set up on my old twin cat..no issues but I agree with Tom Foley...side wall mount works good and its easier to clean the boat.
 
I'm gearing-up to finally build a brand-new in-box legacy Pinckert Coyote .67/.80 outrigger kit. I purchased this custom built kit from Don back in October 1987, and has sat in my garage since. It will be powered by a brand-new in-box (1987) Andy Brown modded Rossi .80, or possibly a brand-new Picco .67 Silver head (both engines share the same mount dimensions). It's an extremely nicely built boat.

I was analyzing the "old-school" dampened motor-mount assembly. It has two 1/4 inch aluminum plate sections, drilled and tapped to engine dimensions. The aluminum sections are also drilled and tapped to accept four each rubber dampeners. Each aluminum section is secured to a single solid oak hardwood wedge base. The oak wedge is then epoxied to the floor of the engine compartment. Bolts are then inserted thru the hull bottom, up through the oak base and thread into the bottom portion of each rubber isolator. Looking closely at the oak base it's sligthly warped (not sure if this is an issue?)

However I'm not sure whether I should use this engine mount assembly? Or whether to just use a current design isolated side-wall based mount? I believe this hull fuselage is built with 5 inch sidewalls (I'll have to measure precisely). Who is the best source for a new current sidewall-based engine mount? Andy Brown? Aeromarine?

(sorry for double post)
I built one of those boats in 1985 with a rossi 80. Threw that mount away and made a new one for the boat using the rubbers from the mount. The mount I made when on to be the design that is used today. Bill McGraw saw the mount and ask if he could copy it. I removed the mount from the boat at the race and handed it to him and we made the drawing of the mount and I put it back in the boat for the next round. Set a new oval record at the 1986 Internats with that boat and a turn fin that Doc Turner layed out that Pinkert copied that has gone on to be the base line that all fins are made by. Also we had a very new style timing system design that we still use today at records trails. It was the first time that system was used at the Internats. Sold the boat a few years later but was able to get it back and I still got the boat today.

I know a lot of boats use that style of mount and they work great in monos. They were made to replace the Octure 5" mount. I have since been using the Andy Brown style mount that has two aluim. rails with rubber thru the tub side and nylon bolts. But have been using derlin for the rail for a total plastic mount.
 
I've run mounts like that in scale hulls before without problems. And actually that is how those isolation dampers are supposed to be used, the way we have them in typical side rail mounting is not what they were designed for. ;)
ditto. ran scale and sport X with 90 motors and never had a problem,also mongoose riggers were set up like this,mike.
 
I'm gearing-up to finally build a brand-new in-box legacy Pinckert Coyote .67/.80 outrigger kit. I purchased this custom built kit from Don back in October 1987, and has sat in my garage since. It will be powered by a brand-new in-box (1987) Andy Brown modded Rossi .80, or possibly a brand-new Picco .67 Silver head (both engines share the same mount dimensions). It's an extremely nicely built boat.

I was analyzing the "old-school" dampened motor-mount assembly. It has two 1/4 inch aluminum plate sections, drilled and tapped to engine dimensions. The aluminum sections are also drilled and tapped to accept four each rubber dampeners. Each aluminum section is secured to a single solid oak hardwood wedge base. The oak wedge is then epoxied to the floor of the engine compartment. Bolts are then inserted thru the hull bottom, up through the oak base and thread into the bottom portion of each rubber isolator. Looking closely at the oak base it's sligthly warped (not sure if this is an issue?)

However I'm not sure whether I should use this engine mount assembly? Or whether to just use a current design isolated side-wall based mount? I believe this hull fuselage is built with 5 inch sidewalls (I'll have to measure precisely). Who is the best source for a new current sidewall-based engine mount? Andy Brown? Aeromarine?

(sorry for double post)
I built one of those boats in 1985 with a rossi 80. Threw that mount away and made a new one for the boat using the rubbers from the mount. The mount I made when on to be the design that is used today. Bill McGraw saw the mount and ask if he could copy it. I removed the mount from the boat at the race and handed it to him and we made the drawing of the mount and I put it back in the boat for the next round. Set a new oval record at the 1986 Internats with that boat and a turn fin that Doc Turner layed out that Pinkert copied that has gone on to be the base line that all fins are made by. Also we had a very new style timing system design that we still use today at records trails. It was the first time that system was used at the Internats. Sold the boat a few years later but was able to get it back and I still got the boat today.

I know a lot of boats use that style of mount and they work great in monos. They were made to replace the Octure 5" mount. I have since been using the Andy Brown style mount that has two aluim. rails with rubber thru the tub side and nylon bolts. But have been using derlin for the rail for a total plastic mount.
Here are a few images of a brand-new Coyote .67/.80 outrigger, purchased directly from Don Pinckert (back in 1988). Finally starting construction. Will be powered by a brand-new Rossi R80 Marine drum-valve.

Hull looks to be 41in in length overall. I'm very impressed with build quality, exceptionally clean.

I'm thinking, at this point, I will probably use the unique oak wooden-wedge motor-mount design, looks pretty cool (I think). Will machine aluminum mounting plates to fit other current engines as well.

Plan to replace aluminum boom tubes with carbon fibre counterparts. The aluminum tubes included are .625 dia and .500 dia.. I need some input on available equivalent carbon-fibre tubes?

I'm using .250 dia cable, need info on source for brass tubing shaft log, are there thick-wall available for this?

Thanks,

Dave

Feb2014_Pinckert_Coyote-67,80_Unbuilt_OverallTopView_01.jpg

Feb2014_Pinckert_Coyote-67,80_Unbuilt_RightProfileView_02.jpg

Feb2014_Pinckert_Coyote-67,80_Unbuilt_FrontSponson,Right_01.jpg

Feb2014_Pinckert_Coyote-67,80_Unbuilt_FrontSponson,Right_04.jpg
 
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Hey David,

Good to see you are getting around to building the 60 Coyote. I have a 40 Coyote Sprint here that I am just starting to play around with.

If you are going to replace the aluminum tubes - I would like to get them from you.

I was going to build my own a while back and looked into boom material. Then I found that my partner had build the Coyote Sprint, and we did some horse trading instead. Here are a couple places I was provided, Opinions were split on which of the ACP tubes to use - TUR was preferred by Mark Grannis, TU by Bret and Albert Arujo.

Fiberglass booms are available from a couple different sources:

1. Aerospace Composites www.acpsales.com . Look at the TUR (woven carbon fiber), and the TU Fiberglass tubes

2. www.goodwinds.com .500 X 40 Pultrided Carbon tube $15.99. .625 SW X 40 Pultrided carbon Tube $32.99

Pay attention to how Don installs the strut and the angle he used. His intention was to maintain the angle and simply move the strut up and down to provide desired ride angle.

CHEERS !!! Bob
 
Hey David,

Good to see you are getting around to building the 60 Coyote. I have a 40 Coyote Sprint here that I am just starting to play around with.

If you are going to replace the aluminum tubes - I would like to get them from you.

I was going to build my own a while back and looked into boom material. Then I found that my partner had build the Coyote Sprint, and we did some horse trading instead. Here are a couple places I was provided, Opinions were split on which of the ACP tubes to use - TUR was preferred by Mark Grannis, TU by Bret and Albert Arujo.

Fiberglass booms are available from a couple different sources:

1. Aerospace Composites www.acpsales.com . Look at the TUR (woven carbon fiber), and the TU Fiberglass tubes

2. www.goodwinds.com .500 X 40 Pultrided Carbon tube $15.99. .625 SW X 40 Pultrided carbon Tube $32.99

Pay attention to how Don installs the strut and the angle he used. His intention was to maintain the angle and simply move the strut up and down to provide desired ride angle.
wow, thanks for those details on the carbon fibre materials.

That Coyote Sprint boat is very nice. Did you build it from ground-up? Or did you find it used? (being it is a vintage boat)

Yeah, I have that same strut angle configuration detail sketch. I'll have to look at it more closely.
 
Hey David,

You are welcome. I was planning on building one from Scratch last year to run with the few Nitro boaters in this area at club races, and had to search for boom material sources.

The 40 boat in the pics I bought in 1999 at the Winter Nats as a kit. It sat around my shop in Florida until we were getting ready to move here, so I gave it to Rick. He built the kit - sponsons were foam filled glass - tub was just like yours. Last year I decided I was too lazy to build one, remembered Rick had this one, so we did some horse trading.

Look closely at you boat and compare it to a Roadrunner. Maybe not as vintage as you think.

Let me know if you decide to replace the aluminum booms - I can make use of them. CHEERS !!! Bob
 
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