Spraying Epoxy Paint?

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007clint

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I have given up on Duplicolor and other rattle can paint BUT need help! Does any one have a link to an instructional website? Any good tips?

A have big air compressor, several models with various rattle can painted fiberglass models and one Kloss Koted model that needs new paint, and some new Kloss Kote 2-part Epoxy. A few questions:

1) how do I keep overspray off the rest of my garage?

2) what about masking - do you remove masking before paint dries?

3) what about air pressure?

4) How do you keep from wasting this expensive paint?

5) What about number of coats (painting only yellow with a clear coat)?

6) Any especially good small spray can or type?

7) Better to hang the model or paint bottom, let dry and then paint top?

8) How much pre-sanding - should I remove all duplicolor or can I paint over it?

9) I have one bare 1/32" plywood area on a sponson from a repair, how should I seal it?

Sorry for so many questions but I am going to do this one way or another (unless someone knows someone in Dallas / Fort Worth that I can have paint it (two car painting places I asked said "not interested").

Thanks in advance for any help!
 
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To seal the bare spot mix some slow set epoxy and then thin it with laquer thinner(doesn't take much thinner). Let dry, sand with 220 grit then give it a coat of unthinned epoxy. Sand whole boat with 220 grit. Then wipe the hull down with laquer thinner followed by a wipe down with a tack cloth(can be purchased at local paint store) If you have a regular door(not a full size garage door) set up a box fan or two in it to suck the air out. Spray close to the door and direct your spray in the direction of the door. Cover any equipment close by with old sheets or a tarp. I use small, cheap Harbor Freight touch up spray guns and they work fine at about 40 psi. As far as how much to mix I would try about 3/4 of a cup. Keep track of how much paint you mix so next time you will have a better idea of how much you will need. I hang my boats from 2 pieces of wire. It keeps them from spinning and you don't have to hold it steady as much. I usually lightly mist on the first and second coat. Don't try to get full coverage with the first coat. Then I spray on another coat not worrying about if the paint has any fog lines. The last coat I put on as thick as I dare making sure there are no fog lines. I do not use clear when spraying epoxy. I have boats that are 5 years old that look great. The masking tape should be removed as soon as the paint flashes.When removing the tape, do not pull the tape at a 90 degree angle to the surface(straight up off the boat). Pull the tape back over itself at a very low angle. Hope this helps. I'll pm you my phone number if you have any questions. Hope this helps, Jim Fullmer
 
007clint said:
I have given up on Duplicolor and other rattle can paint BUT need help! Does any one have a link to an instructional website? Any good tips?

A have big air compressor, several models with various rattle can painted fiberglass models and one Kloss Koted model that needs new paint, and some new Kloss Kote 2-part Epoxy. A few questions:

1) how do I keep overspray off the rest of my garage?

Paint dust is no different than other paints

2) what about masking - do you remove masking before paint dries?

I pull the masking tape when the paint is pretty dry but not fully cured.

3) what about air pressure?

use about 30 lb air depends on the gun. Mix 1 part color 1 part cat and 1 part reducer

4) How do you keep from wasting this expensive paint?

Just mix about 4-6 oz at a time this will give plenty of paint for most models.

5) What about number of coats (painting only yellow with a clear coat)?

Do a couple light coats to cover them a close coat to make a gloss, watch out for runs. what you see is what you get for gloss, epoxy does not buff out well.

6) Any especially good small spray can or type?

7) Better to hang the model or paint bottom, let dry and then paint top?

I hang the model to get both sides at once.

8) How much pre-sanding - should I remove all duplicolor or can I paint over it?

Test it to see if it wrinkles or shows an edge.

9) I have one bare 1/32" plywood area on a sponson from a repair, how should I seal it?

I would get the Klass Koat white primer and use it first over the old paint and bare spots.

Sorry for so many questions but I am going to do this one way or another (unless someone knows someone in Dallas / Fort Worth that I can have paint it (two car painting places I asked said "not interested").

Thanks in advance for any help!
Click to expand...
 
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007clint said:
I have given up on Duplicolor and other rattle can paint BUT need help! Does any one have a link to an instructional website? Any good tips?

A have big air compressor, several models with various rattle can painted fiberglass models and one Kloss Koted model that needs new paint, and some new Kloss Kote 2-part Epoxy. A few questions:

1) how do I keep overspray off the rest of my garage?

2) what about masking - do you remove masking before paint dries?

3) what about air pressure?

4) How do you keep from wasting this expensive paint?

5) What about number of coats (painting only yellow with a clear coat)?

6) Any especially good small spray can or type?

7) Better to hang the model or paint bottom, let dry and then paint top?

8) How much pre-sanding - should I remove all duplicolor or can I paint over it?

9) I have one bare 1/32" plywood area on a sponson from a repair, how should I seal it?

Sorry for so many questions but I am going to do this one way or another (unless someone knows someone in Dallas / Fort Worth that I can have paint it (two car painting places I asked said "not interested").

Thanks in advance for any help!
Click to expand...
Clint, I stopped painting 25 years ago- the two part epoxy paints are hard on the lungs. And that is what you need to resist nitromethane. Call me a wussy if you want- but the proper mask and filters and outside air supply are what it takes.

Glenn
 
glenng said:
Clint, I stopped painting 25 years ago- the two part epoxy paints are hard on the lungs. And that is what you need to resist nitromethane. Call me a wussy if you want- but the proper mask and filters and outside air supply are what it takes.

Glenn
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With two box fans blowing air out the side door and maybe the garage door up 6" or so behind me? What kind of a mask should I use?
 
A lot of your questions can be answered by reading FAQ's and Data sheets on http://www.klasskote.com
wink.gif
 
007clint said:
I have given up on Duplicolor and other rattle can paint BUT need help! Does any one have a link to an instructional website? Any good tips?

A have big air compressor, several models with various rattle can painted fiberglass models and one Kloss Koted model that needs new paint, and some new Kloss Kote 2-part Epoxy. A few questions:

1) how do I keep overspray off the rest of my garage?

2) what about masking - do you remove masking before paint dries?

3) what about air pressure?

4) How do you keep from wasting this expensive paint?

5) What about number of coats (painting only yellow with a clear coat)?

6) Any especially good small spray can or type?

7) Better to hang the model or paint bottom, let dry and then paint top?

8) How much pre-sanding - should I remove all duplicolor or can I paint over it?

9) I have one bare 1/32" plywood area on a sponson from a repair, how should I seal it?

Sorry for so many questions but I am going to do this one way or another (unless someone knows someone in Dallas / Fort Worth that I can have paint it (two car painting places I asked said "not interested").

Thanks in advance for any help!
Click to expand...
Thats bull.. Alot of paint shops would do it for you,but one proublem..it wont be cheap to paint it..I'd been using all sorts of paints,even Dupi-color rattle cans and top them off with automotive urethanes clears...with no proublems what so ever on my boats..The proublem with epoxy paints is less color selection.. no metalics or pearls or flip flop color change...like you see on the mistic mustangs....only soild colors for klassic koat..Now there is another paint that is strong as epoxy is IMORN..they use them on semi's airplanes and locomotives...oh plus it use it on all unlimted hydro's too..ok when painting in your garage,put a box house fan in the window or door way to get fumes out.. for less over spray use a HVLP gravity feed gun.. cuts the over spray in half and save you in your spray meterials too... remove making tape when the paint is dry..if you use a hvlp gun ,I spray my stuff at 15-20 psi.....by using a hvlp gun save you on wasted paints.. it puts more paints to the surface and less over spray=less paint will be used to paint your boat....spraying soild color with take 3 coats of colors and 3 coats of clear.....hang your boat is the best...you can paint over the dupi-color.. if the paint isnt messed up ,wet sand it with 320-400 ..if you want spray paint sealer on it..let it dry then your good to paint it...oh use epoxy sealer over the bear wood..sand it, prime it seal and paint... I do autobody paint for aliving...so many tricks to paint stuff...here pics of there of my boats that was painted with Dupi-color rattle cans toped with automotive urethane clear on them..
 
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The mininum mask you should use is a 3M type respirator with charcol filters for organic vapors and a prefilter to catch oil base mists...if you want model number for these items, i will get em for you...i use this set up where i work, but i dont remember the model numbers....if you ever shoot Imron, you are SUPPOSED TO USE a positive pressure system and a suit..Imron is great stuff...but its not good for you to breath or get on your skin...no matter what paint you use, a simple dust mask is USELESS!! Might as well use nothing....as far as how many coats to use, it depends on the color, and the base you are covering...yellows can have alot of clear in them, so the base should be primered or painted in a solid light color(like white) so the yellow will cover evenly....Ive shot Imron for a number of years.....now im going to paint my friends outrigger with Klass Kote 2 part Epoxy paint...ive never shot Epoxy Paint before..should be interesting....always learning! :)Just remember that the most important part of the paint job is the prep..the more time and effort you put into it, the better your model will come out! :)
 
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First I want to thank everyone for the help - all the suggestions were top notch! I painted my hull and it looks great!

HOWEVER .... I failed to ask one question, which was - "What should I mix the paint in"?

I had everything set, I read all the directions for the new touch-up spray gun and the Klass Kote paint (twice), I ran through everything but without the paint, visualized everything, and then, with everything in total control, started.

I had marked a clear plastic cup with the levels for Part A, Part B, and reducer and placed it on my maple bench.

I poured in Part A (Yellow) up to the line.

I poured in Part B up to the second line.

I mixed the two together and started the timer that had been carefully placed next to the cup.

At 5 minutes I stirred again and at 10 minutes stirred again, waiting for 20 minutes when I was going to pour in the reducer up to the third line on the clear plastic cup.

At 15 minutes I came back to the bench and DISASTER - there was a puddle of yellow epoxy paint quickly growing on my maple bench under the cup!! I quickly grabbed the cup to pour the rest of the paint into the gun but when I picked it up the bottom of the cup came completely off and paint went everywhere!

I had failed to ask "What should I mix the paint in?"

In a panic, I scraped the paint into the paint gun but by that time part of it had migrated to my garage floor.

I scrambled to get the yellow epoxy paint off my new maple table with thinner and by that time, the garage floor, several tools on the bench, the paint gun, and everything else I touched with my paint-covered rubber gloves!

Oh well! So much for planning and practice run!

Everything worked out and the hull looks great (luckily the epoxy paint is a very slow setup).

The clear plastic cup had a '6' recycle number on it (don't know what type of plastic that is).

So I ask now for the next time - "What should I mix the paint in?"
 
couple of suggestions on the class kote..

I haved been using it for 6yrs know.

1. DO NOT BUY THE WHITE PRIMER...

I had MAJOR issues with it.. i had a brand new crapshooter i went to prime it with and it popcorned terrible.. I found out that anything over 65 degree's with that stuff and it catalizes at the tip due to the hardner.

2. the gray primer will work just fine for your color.. i shoot several coats to fill the wood grain. sands nice.

3. i run my hvlp gun with a 1.0 tip for paint 1.2 tip for primer @ 45lbs on the gun

yes you will have overspray.. if you clear or shoot clear have it a BRIGHTLY lit area so you can see where the areas that need more clear are.

You don't need to shoot clear over the color, if you so choose to. wait 24hrs for the paint to harden.. scuff it with 400 or 600 take some mineral spirits and wipe it off tack cloth it and shoot.

when i shoot my tub's i put a sponson boom tube thru the front hole and wire it to the cealiing so the transom hangs down. i figure if i don't get enough clear on the tub i would rather have a light spot on the transom than on the nose ( Just more visable )

again STAY AWAY FROM THE WHITE PRIMER.. if you don't beleive me ask my father steve wood or my buddy wally marsh.. they both have seen it.

chris
 
i save all old glass jars to use to mix paint in.plastic don't work. i made a rotater for painting riggers, out of a barbecue spit motor,mounted it to a board,built adapters to mount to the transome hardware holes. works great
 
steve wood said:
i save all old glass jars to use to mix paint in.plastic don't work. i made a rotater for painting riggers, out of a barbecue spit motor,mounted it to a board,built adapters to mount to the transome hardware holes. works great
Click to expand...
Steve

I use 8 oz paper cups that i get at a party wharehouse store. they do have some sort of lining the the paint wont soak thru.

I would like to see a picture of that. Now if you could just program a robot to do the spraying :D

git er done

Chris

I am not sure why you have problems with the with the white primer. do you let it sit or spray right away? the info say it does not have to sit before spraying like the gray primer. I have also use the reducer to make it spray smoother up to 1 part reducer to primer.
 
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P THOMAS said:
steve wood said:
i save all old glass jars to use to mix paint in.plastic don't work. i made a rotater for painting riggers, out of a barbecue spit motor,mounted it to a board,built adapters to mount to the transome hardware holes. works great
Click to expand...
Steve

I use 8 oz paper cups that i get at a party wharehouse store. they do have some sort of lining the the paint wont soak thru.

I would like to see a picture of that. Now if you could just program a robot to do the spraying :D

git er done

Chris

I am not sure why you have problems with the with the white primer. do you let it sit or spray right away? the info say it does not have to sit before spraying like the gray primer. I have also use the reducer to make it spray smoother up to 1 part reducer to primer.
Click to expand...
whit primer doesn't like it hot. we spray in the garage with the heat cranked.at 95 degrees it drys at the tip,thats what klass kote told me was happening.flat white works better
 
steve wood said:
whit primer doesn't like it hot. we spray in the garage with the heat cranked.at 95 degrees it drys at the tip,thats what klass kote told me was happening.flat white works better
Click to expand...
Why do you have the temp so high while shooting??? I can see jacking it up afterwards but that's too hot for application temps in my opinion. I have found between 72 and 75 degrees for spraying epoxy and acrylic urethanes to be ideal. After a 15 minute "flash off" I'll use halogen lamps to jack the temps up just in the spraying area only if for some reason I need to accelerate the process but mostly prefer a controlled overnight drying at around 72 degrees. :)
 
I have a quick question about epoxy paint. Has anyone ever sprayed a sealed wooden hull without priming it first? The reason I ask is I just ordered a 1/2 gallon kit from KlassKote and was told by the rep the white paint was opaque enough to apply without a primer coat. My experience is with 2 part automotive urethanes and they always require primer/surfacer. I have never sprayed epoxy paint before, so I was wondering if this is possible. If it's true, it sure would save a ton of time and effort. Any thoughts or input is appreciated.

Thanks
 
68Bud said:
I have a quick question about epoxy paint. Has anyone ever sprayed a sealed wooden hull without priming it first? The reason I ask is I just ordered a 1/2 gallon kit from KlassKote and was told by the rep the white paint was opaque enough to apply without a primer coat. My experience is with 2 part automotive urethanes and they always require primer/surfacer. I have never sprayed epoxy paint before, so I was wondering if this is possible. If it's true, it sure would save a ton of time and effort. Any thoughts or input is appreciated.

Thanks
Click to expand...
Klasskote is very similar to K&B superpoxy and Hobbypoxy. I have used the clear to seal the wooden hull (brushing) and then spray the white without primer. The white is as opaque as the primer. The primer sands a little easier than the white though. I find that two coats is enough for my standard.

kez
 
if you do prime without sealing and for some reason the paint gets chipped down past the primer to bare wood you leave your self at risk for water soaking into the bare spot
 
I like the hang the boat from transom reason being if you spray it a little thick it will bead up at the edge and found this not to be the thing on the rear edge of a sponson.I use a old cup from a scraped out gun to mix in.For the larger boats i do sport hydros i use a 1.4 tip.I have a long air hose i set the psi at 50.I use a tack cote then let it sit then two wet cotes.I have the fluid needle 3/4 opened up.I mix equal parts paint hardner and laquer thinner 1/3 1/3 1/3.When i clear cote a hull i like to shoot it twice first day then let it dry over nite wet sand 400 then shoot it again.
 

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