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gooycheese said:
Ummmm so you are saying I should trim it down some and raise it a little too? I was told that the first bend should be about 1/16" - 1/8" below the TE of the sponson and I am about 3/8" below. Ok I am gonna modify my turn fin and see how it goes from there.

Thanks You Very Much !!!!

Paul :)

p.s. So a stinger would be consider a muffling device? Have you had a chance to test it yet, will it hinder performance?
Click to expand...
Paul.this is the size I would Make it. and raise it 1/4"...Take all extra material off from the top of the fin also <_< Nick

34zhwd4.jpg


PS I'll bet you will gain 10 mph with a smaller fin :lol: :p
 
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"Wow" If that's a Grim 12 turn fin I just realized how small your rigger really is. :eek: That should make a huge difference in the way your boat runs.

Don ;)
 
Well I did it , I am now under 2 lbs. New weight is 1lb 15.80oz . I trimmed the turn fin I also cut the brass boom tubes down a little and removed the big washers I had on them against the tub I also changed the throttle linkage a little. I also add a little silicon to everything mounted to the radio box. Now I cant wait to try it out, I did notice that my right front sponson is towed in a little already.

Thanks again everyone, you guys are the BEST !!!!!!

Paul

p.s. These are the most recent pics, if you look at the boom tubes you will see the washers are gone and I removed a total of 2 1/4" of brass tubing.

http://www.intlwaters.com/index.php?automo...=si&img=685
 
Hi All,

I was reading the IMPBA World Records, Ummmm so what will it take to get a A hydro to go 78.534 mph? I hope to get 50 mph but geez almost 30 mph faster is really moving. Why are there so few record trials and they are so far away too, Flint Michigan would be the closest for me and thats 300miles or 5hr drive.

Thanks Paul

p.s. I checked NAMBA records and A hydro there is 106.20 mph , where do you get a .12 CMB engine?
 
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gooycheese said:
I will go get an exact weight today, but as it sits I am guessing just a little over 2 pounds. The picture at that time of the build shows the weight at 816.9 grams, if I recall there is no receiver ,battery,on/off switch,antenna or turn fin. The receiver is 14.1 grams, I hope the battery is 75 grams or less I don't know what the other stuff weighs but 2 pounds would be 896 grams. so I will have exact weights later today :)

Paul
Click to expand...
Thanks Paul! I just read that you trimmed down your huuuuge turn fin. I think thats a good idea.

I'll reweigh my Lil Rascal but I know that it is going to weigh a bunch more than your boat. I don't have a scale with the resolution of yours. Mine is only accurate down to +/- 2 oz (but it goes up to 350 lbs :eek: !) Close enough but I'd love to have something that would measure down to the gram!! By the way, the Lil Rascal is 24" long.
 
A hydro in NAMBA is a .21

gooycheese said:
Hi All,
I was reading the IMPBA World Records, Ummmm so what will it take to get a A hydro to go 78.534 mph? I hope to get 50 mph but geez almost 30 mph faster is really moving. Why are there so few record trials and they are so far away too, Flint Michigan would be the closest for me and thats 300miles or 5hr drive.

Thanks Paul

p.s. I checked NAMBA records and A hydro there is 106.20 mph , where do you get a .12 CMB engine?
Click to expand...
 
Thank God that A hydro is a .21 in NAMBA :) , going 2x as fast would not be an easy task.

On another note, I wrote an email to the Badgers Motor Boat Club and explained who I was and the club I was affiliated with and asked if I could run my A hydro in there B class. The response I got was :

"I've run across your posts on

IW hence your nickname. I'll tell you what I'll do with regards to running

your "A" rigger - our SOP is three boats to make a class, meaning if two

more "A" hydros show up and want to race we would run that class alone, not

mixed with any others. Sooo.. I'll check with a few other people, some who I

know have "A" hydros, and see if they want to race them. I think it would be

a fun class to run. If for some reason I can't summon enough (3) for a

separate class then I will inquire into other possibilties to be able to

race your boat Summer Thunder is a great club and you're in good hands

there."

So Tom is there anyway you can have your A hydro ready for the first race of the season? I wouldn't mind running against Gary Preusse either, I hope his boat is as good as Ive heard I would really like to get spanked so my eye's will open more to the possibilities of the Class. Tony from the Badgers is suppose to get back to me in the near future and let me know if he can find some more a class racers he said he knows a few. This will be a great day for the class if we can get enough to run :)

Paul
 
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"NOT GOOD CHEESE"

Where'd you put the locktight, on the piston? :lol: :lol:

Sorry Cheese, I just couldn't resist but I do really feel bad about your problem. How much damage did it do to the rest of the engine? Bent a few,never broke one.

Don :(
 
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Well I broke the connecting rod on top and bottom and basically took 3/4 of the skirt off the piston. Otherwise everything else looks good. I called the LHS after I took the engine apart and told them what I needed and they said they stock that stuff but after they looked into there inventory they only had the piston and sleeve in stock so it will be prob Tuesday before i can get the con-rod. I did try calling you from the pond this morning Don, but you where not home .................. I was waiting for a ride to come get me, I was planning on staying at the pond all day (that got cut short :( )

Paul

http://www.intlwaters.com/index.php?automo...=si&img=699
 
Does anyone have some experience with OS and warranty issues? I will call Monday morning but I cant send in this engine, I hope I can send pics of the parts and the block and stuff and copy of receipt and get some new extra parts. I cant take the engine out for 2 weeks first race is May 6th and I wanna give it a go, thats 2 weeks from tomorrow. So I plan on having boat running by Wednesday or so and back in the water soon after. I wont be telling OS this engine is being used for a "Boat" .

Paul
 
gooycheese said:
Does anyone have some experience with OS and warranty issues? I will call Monday morning but I cant send in this engine, I hope I can send pics of the parts and the block and stuff and copy of receipt and get some new extra parts. I cant take the engine out for 2 weeks first race is May 6th and I wanna give it a go, thats 2 weeks from tomorrow. So I plan on having boat running by Wednesday or so and back in the water soon after. I wont be telling OS this engine is being used for a "Boat" .


Paul
Click to expand...
Paul,

Just my .02 here. I thought OS posted a disclaimer that there is no warranty on these hiperf engines. Even though the flywheel load is nominal, that coming loose even with a mild throttle zing could easily over rev the engine. Sorry for your misfortune.

Bill
 
Well I would be building the .21 and other boats right now but the $$$$$ just isnt there :( . So I gotta work with what I got for now :)

Paul
 
Hi All,

I got the parts and fixed the engine today. Since this is a car engine I was gonna try this for a breakin procedure, do this sound ok?

I am gonna run the boat in a tub of water in the back yard so the engine has some resistance, and I can let it idle and gently blip the throttle. I will also get a temp gage and make sure the engine is around 200°. I have a 2oz tank so I will run like this for at least 4 tanks probably more like 6 then I will start leaning out a 1/8 turn at a time. Once I have about 10 tanks run thru the boat I will bring it to the pond. During the breaking in period I wont high rev more then just a quick blip and I will always let the engine cool at BDC. I know I never even thought about where it was cooling down in relation to piston position. Does this sound like a good plan of attack? Please let me know what you think.

Thanks Everyone !!

Paul

p.s. The 200° seamed like the general consensus on what temp it should be during break in?
 
I don't think you'll be able to get it up to 200deg without putting thengine under load. I always break mine in at the pond, just run it real fat (rich). I run it so rich at fist that it won't come up on the pipe. I start leaning a few clicks at a time with each tank. Only run at 3/4 throttle during breakin, too.
 
Since my boat is 17" I am breakin it in, in a tub that is 2'x3'x10" I can hold it in one hand and give a little throttle. then periodically I will set trans down and check temp. I am now going to run 3rd tank I am keeping temp between 180° and 210° after I do this a few more times I will lean a little bit and then do another 2 more tanks. I want to do this because this rigger doesn't float the best, yes it floats but not really well. After the leaned out tanks I will tank to the pond and do on the water breakin, where I can run 3/4 throttle. 3/4 throttle I will run for another 4 tanks or so and gradually lean as I do this, then I figure I will have about 20 oz or so thru the engine should i continue to breakin or can I start to open it up then?

Thanks Paul

p.s. Air temp today is about 47°
 
G'day all , without trying to cause problems ill throw in my 2 cents and give some food for thought

after reading several CAR engine running in techniques i tried a few for myself to see the difference

First engine was a RB imports .12 slide carb which was run in by just letting the engine idle in the car at about 220degrees for 400 ml of fuel,being air cooled it will idle happly like that , you were to allow the engine to cool completely at BDC each 100ml

you were to control the temperature by adjusting the mixture

then drive the car and start going harder and harder mixture set so the engine can rev cleanly

This engine is still going well to this day

Second engine was a Fantom racing .15 rotary carb , this was run in by giving it a flogging from the word go !

the theory being that this actually created less wear - the heat was generated quickly and as the liner expanded more and quicker than the piston the clearance was greater , hence less wear and apparently less heat from friction , ive been trying to find the article again as it was very interesting , im pretty sure this theory applies only to ringless air cooled motors

Anyway , the fantom engine that was run in that way is a awesome motor , it certainly didnt do any harm to its performance running it in that way .. just some food for though , would love to hear from others too

Andrew
 

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