Wild thing mono kit build

[Shane Bastick]

Another great build of one of the best mono's out there, am very pleased its now offered in a laser kit form, the kit is top quality, and the kit will save so much build time.

Nice build John

 

[John Finch]

These work great on the deck also,scanned from a photo..........==={}

Ray.... What are those things you hold the deck down with? Are they knitting circles. Is that your other passion.....knitting. LOL

John

Why ,you want an ugly sweater.

I'll send you some if you help with testing on my scale when I come down before the E-ville Nats in June......==={}

I would be glad to help with the scale trimming but keep the wood.

 

[Ray Sametz]

These work great on the deck also,scanned from a photo..........==={}

Ray.... What are those things you hold the deck down with? Are they knitting circles. Is that your other passion.....knitting. LOL

John

Why ,you want an ugly sweater.

I'll send you some if you help with testing on my scale when I come down before the E-ville Nats in June......==={}

I would be glad to help with the scale trimming but keep the wood.

I think we have a" failure to communicate". I meant the clamps, not wood-wool.

 

[John Finch]

These work great on the deck also,scanned from a photo..........==={}

Ray.... What are those things you hold the deck down with? Are they knitting circles. Is that your other passion.....knitting. LOL

John

Why ,you want an ugly sweater.

I'll send you some if you help with testing on my scale when I come down before the E-ville Nats in June......==={}

I would be glad to help with the scale trimming but keep the wood.

I think we have a" failure to communicate". I meant the clamps, not wood-wool.

I meant the wood clamps not the wool. maybe my wife is right.....Maybe I don't communicate well. LOL

 

[Ray Sametz]

These work great on the deck also,scanned from a photo..........==={}

Ray.... What are those things you hold the deck down with? Are they knitting circles. Is that your other passion.....knitting. LOL

John

Why ,you want an ugly sweater.

I'll send you some if you help with testing on my scale when I come down before the E-ville Nats in June......==={}

I would be glad to help with the scale trimming but keep the wood.

I think we have a" failure to communicate". I meant the clamps, not wood-wool.

I meant the wood clamps not the wool. maybe my wife is right.....Maybe I don't communicate well. LOL

Ok, I'll sign out and come back in and we can start over.

Mike does nice work, even comes with a Jig.

 

[David Bryant]

yeah, the lines on this boat are beautiful

 

[Mike Luszcz]

Excellent build thread John! I will be incorporating this into a build manual! Thanks again for allowing me to offer the Wild Thing as a laser cut kit. I spoke to Sean in our District, he has 48" plans drawn and already tested, and he shared those with me to kit up as well. This is such a great and unique boat, should be many more of them out there soon! Mike

 

[Mike Byer]

I'd like to know more about the motor/speed control that you used.

mb

 

[moparbarn]

Great build thread Professor.

Ahhhh the stories the lid on that field box could tell.

.......==={}

i think the same thing every time i see john's pit box at the races, ray

. john, great build thread, with a ton of good info for ANY mono build

!! i love the "drop deck" design at the bow, gives the boat a more aggressive look. it does help with some downforce, i'm sure, but was designed with a different purpose in full scale hulls. with the advent of the long nose/rear cockpit style hulls in the 60's, visability became a serious issue. the deck was sloped to help this problem, & then the designers & racers realized the aero advantage. they could loosen the hulls up more & run props with more lift by using the deck to help "fly" the hull. good advantages & it just looks cool

. air traps on the deck will help add more downforce, if needed. kinda like what jerry uses on the seaducers. could also be just long, thin fins lengthwise on either side of the deck.....

 

[John Finch]

Robin,

I experimented with the air dams about 10 years ago and they do help stabilize a hull.

Mike,

I used 2 3s packs in series for 6 cells tapped into the shulze 40.160 speed controller feeding a 2500 KV motor for SAW running. That is why the boat went to 70 mph really quick and I had to let off the throttle because I was running it right at me in a 20 mph wind. For the non electric guys.....this setup is for SAW and the batteries are only good for about 90 seconds run time to be safe and not let the smoke out.

Since most modelers don't run SAW I decided to put a 1500 kv motor in the boat and run it 6s for a typical heat racing setup and test further to report how the boat does the oval course. With the 1500 kv motor and 5000 ma packs I am guessing I can make the normal 6 laps for a heat race. I also added some green covering to the deck so the hockey tape will stick better when attaching the cowl. Seems hockey tape is cheap but it does not like sticking to epoxy finishes as well as fiberglass and vinyl. Unfortunately the weather will be in the teens this week but when it gets up to 50 degrees and no ice on the water I will test the boat as a heat racer and post the results.

I will try to get some action shots of the boat or maybe even video on my new Samsung note 3 as well.

Any suggestions on a heat racing prop for the 6s mono?

 

[Mike Byer]

the saw setup was 22 volts and about 55,000 rpm?

 

[John Finch]

Mike,

I have found so far that if my data logging is correct...........on a heat racing setup you can take the kv rating, multiply by the voltage using 3.7 volts per cell, then calculate the efficiency, which is about 90 percent with the NEU motor to get the rpm........so 2500x22.2= 55,500 rpm BUT!!!!!!! at 90 percent motor efficiency it is actually 49,950 rpm.......but.....When running SAW and drawing more amps quicker I have found with my setup that voltage drops tremendously when full speed is about to be realized and the rpm, which is directly determined by the voltage ......drops! So: with my testing ONLY ON A MONO so far........use 3.4 volts per cell as the multiplyer and use 85 % as the efficiency drops. Bottom line is.................2500x20.4 volts at 85 percent efficiency equals actual RPM of.....43,350 rpm.

I hope this answers your question Mike. Although I have been running boats for 46 years I am new to the electric stuff and still learning. What I just stated is my results from testing this past year. someone else may have different results. Strictly MONO testing! The hydros are not seeing the same slippage rates or voltage drops from what I have seen. Example..........Don Ferrette went 100 mph with his scale boat with a motor/battery/prop setup and then passed the combo to me and it will not do the same thing on the mono even though in nitro we used to always run the same props and engine in the scale boats as with the mono hulls. Still figuring it out. Not as easy as it looks as Terry Keely says.

 

[Mike Byer]

Interested in the elictric stuff,but kind of waiting for you let all the smoke out of the pieces and come up with a safe combo that will make good speed and time. Some look impressive,and others are electronic burning nightmares. I already have a mountain of nitro and gas trial and error parts, not sure if I want to start an electric scrap pile too. Guess I could always talk you out of that inline twin boat and call it good.

mb

 

[John Finch]

I feel your pain. I have burned up 3 speed controllers learning the hard way. It would be nice to have those good working combinations written down somewhere. I recently bought a rico 4s mono from Hotwater with a 2200 kv motor in it because he has been racing it for a couple of years and I know the combo works. That is one way to get a safe setup. Maybe If I can get it all figured out I can write another book for the electric stuff like I did for the nitro and make it easier for everyone. That is If I ever figure it out myself.

The twin hull went thru the bandsaw. when I finally got the engine right the boat was too small. I may build a larger hull for the engine some day. If I do it will be like my scrap lumber sport boat. plywood over foam.

John

 

[Mike Byer]

looking at a 4082 motor 2000kv and a 200 amp controler, would this be a good place to start?

mb

 

[Ralf Moser]

John,

36% Slip for a mono seems very high to me. My 55" is currently in that range because of blades too small for the power, too wet and heavy boat also.

Since 2006 i gather logging data, and it seems that 20-25% is the practical range for a mono.

I modeled a big calc-sheet based on the logging data and connected them with the physical background, which is everytime checked (based on logging data and expectation values with new setups). It works fine for getting the idea of current and speed in the straights especially for Monos.

I use 20% slip for the props, and it fits most of the time. But if the practical result ends in 22% or 25% it is okay if speed, current and stability is well balanced for SAW.

I drove in 2010 a SD33 in L6 (same like your Q, but only 6S1P allowed) with a NEU 1527/1D (2300kv no load) and a M447. Got a AVG of 82.5mph, GPSed it at 85mph.This fitted the 20-22% slip due to the prop.

In my opinion Jerry has to run in that slippage range too to reach his results. But honestly i have no clear value of the rpm of a tuned nitro. Maybe you have a idea for me?

Ralf

PS: love your wild thing, motivation continously increases building also one myself, but cannot afford time for more stuff :/

 

[David Bryant]

I may build a larger hull for the engine some day. If I do it will be like my scrap lumber sport boat. plywood over foam.

John

I'd like to see a .67/.80 (41 - 42 inch) sized, or even .45 (39 - 40 inch), nitro Wild Thing kit, I'd buy one

 

[John Finch]

Mike,

Use 4s and a x445 or m445 prop that will get you started safely for the p mono class we run in the district. I am running 2200 kv and an x445 prop. Watch the heat if you go larger on the prop.

I run two 4 s 5000 ma packs in parallel and have pleanty of battery life for a race and then some. You don't want your batteries to drain down below about 30 percent. Some say 20 percent. I like 30 percent. you can ruin them if you drain them all the way from what I hear. Better to have more capacity than you need.

OH.....don't be talking to someone when you are hooking up the batteries. Concentrate on that very simple thing that can become an ark welder in a matter of one brain fart.

Ralf,

I always used 21 percent slip with my nitro monos and the numbers always worked perfectly. I would guess 24000 to 26000 rpm for a nitro mono but Jerry has some awesome motors so he may be doing more rpm. I am now going for less rpm with my electric monos and larger props and will see what the results bring. I need to get to the 21 percent slip for sure. I edited the post that quotes 36 percent slippage. Although I may have seen that.....it is not typical and I am working on resolving that issue. Maybe the strut is too large and causeing aeration to the prop or maybe glue in the water where I test. LOL. I will figure it out. Test test test.

John

 

[John Finch]

Mike,

I pulled some data logging from past runs and expanded them so I could make a better evaluation. I noticed, only after expanding the chart to cover the 2.7 seconds that I was at full throttle, taking up the whole chart just for that time frame........I was turning an average of 34,150 rpm at 242 amps at 18.85 volts (6s)with a 2500 kv motor. That equates to 3.14 volts per cell while at full throttle. When I plugged in those figures the slippage came out to 25 percent for that run. I did another chart from another run and pulled the voltage down even further. Voltage = rpm. I guess I need to work on pumping those batteries up just before the run when running SAW. Still figuring it out one piece at a time. Heat racing motors with lower kv ratings are much more efficient.

John

 

[Terry Keeley]

You "Amp Eaters" are in for some good times now that the Professor is runnin' FE!

Are you running the Eagle Tree for logging John?

Nice build BTW!