Water line poped off.

[tmunn]

Guys I have run my water line on my 21 jae for two years and had the water restricted just above the rudder using a remote needle.It had never blown off on me.My current motor has the mod done to the coolant jacket so the water is restricted at the cloolant head so i removed my restrictions at the rudder and run full water to the engine.

I run a 1/8" brass tubing through my radio box and connect the rudder nipple to the brass with small dia fuel tubing ans the same thong from where the brass exits the bulkhead to the nipple in the water jacket.

What had happened on the weekend is that the line blew off my 1/8" ks brass tubing where the line hooks up ahead of the bulkhead.

The brass tubing is about 1/2" long there.What i did when this happened is cut another small piece of fuel tubing and put it on over needle nose pliars and openen the pliars and put the small piece on over the coolant line.I do this on all my gas boats but they have an actual nipple or barb.

I ran the boat and it never blew off but was wondering if you guys think my small fuel tubing ring on over the fuel tubing and then put back on the brass will hold well.

I took it off when i got home and it pulled off hard so then I cleaned the brass and the line and the small ring I made from tubing and put it all together.It seems good and tight now.

I should have soldered a small brass ring on the tube during installation but I never had this problem until switching to the hole in the coolant jacket method of cooling which BYW i like much better.

What do you guys to to keep the lines from blowing off ?

 

[RodneyPierce]

I always just put the piece of small tubing over the end, like you have. And have never had any issues.

 

[John Knight]

A much easier solution to the soldered barb is to put a small bead of JB Weld around the tubing about 1/8" from the end. Let it dry and put the tubing on it and put a tie tie behind the barb. It will not come off. I have used this for years on water lines and fuel tanks.

 

[Terry Keeley]

I tie wrap every connection with T&B's.

Actually blew a line wide open years ago on a SAW boat when I was restricting at the head, someone said you can get up to 75 psi in those lines.

 

[anthony_marquart]

funny you mention.. I had the exact thing happen 3x last weekend. I was going to scuff up the line and try one of those wire fuel line clamps on it. My motor over heated and dies 2-3 times from this..

 

[Ken Webb]

I think Dubro makes 2 szs. of solder on barbs for brass tubing 1/8 & 5/32. Might give them a try along with small tyraps.

 

[steve wood]

i use brass or aluminum bulkhead fittings. they come with nuts and washers,but i don't use them i just epoxy them in.the lines won't come off these,and you can use a small ty wrap on them also

 

[tmunn]

WOW thanks guys,Great answers .Soldering anything is out due to it's location.I will see if i can get in there with a bead of JB welds and if not then tie wrap them along with my extra little tubing ring.

I will secure it tonight.

 

[dave roach]

I run the water lines straight thru the bulkheads.No fittings at all,that way no leaks.For the med fuel tubing drill and ream Dia..210 thru bulkhead and you have a water tight hole.

Dave Roach

 

[tmunn]

Ok guys i decided to go with John's JB weld trick and Terry and others Zip tie idea I will zip tie everthing once the jb sets up.

Thanks again IW

 

[Tim_Duggan]

You can also solder the Outlet Nipple on the rudder to drop the presure.Just redill the hole smaller

I have done this aswell as the Cooling Mod on my Nova

I Zip tie everything and use the brass Fuel line barbs soldered onto the K&S

Greg

+1. That way the high pressure part of the system is in the rudder blade, not in the silicone tubing.

 

[tmunn]

would you get enough flow if you restrict the coolant jacket and the nipple on the rudder?I know the 21 's like some heat.just do not want to hurt a new motor...

 

[John Knight]

would you get enough flow if you restrict the coolant jacket and the nipple on the rudder?I know the 21 's like some heat.just do not want to hurt a new motor...

You do and I have done it. At one time you could buy a special rudder water fitting with various threaded reducers to regulate the amount of water through the rudder. They are not made anymore from what I have been told. I have a set and it works great on a 21 rigger. I would love to get more of them.

 

[shoboat]

Terry,

Just solder a brass fitting and drill it out with the size

Hole that you want.

Have Fun Testing,

Mark Sholund

 

[Chris Wood]

would you get enough flow if you restrict the coolant jacket and the nipple on the rudder?I know the 21 's like some heat.just do not want to hurt a new motor...

You do and I have done it. At one time you could buy a special rudder water fitting with various threaded reducers to regulate the amount of water through the rudder. They are not made anymore from what I have been told. I have a set and it works great on a 21 rigger. I would love to get more of them.

my dad was making them yrs ago

said they are a PAIN to make

 

[Terry Keeley]

Eh? :lol:

 

[mtruex]

would you get enough flow if you restrict the coolant jacket and the nipple on the rudder?I know the 21 's like some heat.just do not want to hurt a new motor...

You do and I have done it. At one time you could buy a special rudder water fitting with various threaded reducers to regulate the amount of water through the rudder. They are not made anymore from what I have been told. I have a set and it works great on a 21 rigger. I would love to get more of them.

my dad was making them yrs ago

said they are a PAIN to make

heres how i do it, tap the rudder water fitting 4-40, then get some nylon 4-40 screws and drill different size holes through them.. simple to make and change..i do the same thing on the water outlet at the head..

 

[dwilfong]

I use a K&B needle in the water line to set the water flow. I set it with my BM meter. same number as the fuel. thy seam to work in unison. works on all size eng.

On my big rigger the standard fuel line just splits open had to use heavy duty gas fuel line on the beast. wire ties work just fine some times two will be needed to do the job.

Working on a thermostat control using a standard timer chip and a thermal resistor. Going to hook it up to a Perry fuel valve in the water line. Just need more time in the day.

David

 

[tmunn]

I had looked for some of the soft setscrews in the past Terry K when I could not drill the regular steel screws and i could not find them.So then i went with a remote needle in the line and when a guy launched my boat and got the needle cought in the prop, ruining a prop and cutting my needle valve off ,I decided to change methods...Do not ask me how he got the coolant line caught in the prop because i do not know.The same guy dropped my rigger straight down in the water with no forward motion what so ever on another launch.Needless to say he will not be pitting for me again.It was his fist and last day ...lol...

I have the jb weld ring on the brass for now and it made a nice barb i must say. I will zip tie it as well so for now i will hope that will hold and i can do something else down the road.I guess i figured if that the method i chose held for John K it would hold for me.

Take it easy guys.

 

[RodneyPierce]

Terry, try running the needle valve inside the boat, instead of right out at the rudder. Much easier that way, and you dont have to worry about it hitting or getting into things