Type of paint for air brush

[rcboatlover]

I just bought a nice air brush and compressor, but I don't know what type of paint to use. I know just about anything will work in the gun, but what do you guys use that is nitro proof? I only run 15 to 20%, but the hobbie stores haven't been too helpfull.

Thanks Dale P.

 

[Jimmy Whitbeck]

I just bought a nice air brush and compressor, but I don't know what type of paint to use. I know just about anything will work in the gun, but what do you guys use that is nitro proof? I only run 15 to 20%, but the hobbie stores haven't been too helpfull.
Thanks Dale P.

a good grade of automotive paint from a body shop or paint place. I have used Imron has a high solids in the colors and coverage is real good. but some are very sinsitive to it. ans thare is a paint called sunfire that was comparel to imron other than that just a good base coat, clear coat works for me no mater what the job is. but some paints are not friendly with plastic so keep this in mind.

 

[ClayGlover]

Since it's a brush, I assume you're looking for graphics colors and such. Here are some good online sources for paints, equipment, and tips. IMHO, the best way is automotive type multistage painting, using a good compatible clear-coat for a HARD shiny fuel-proof finish. Watch the weight on smaller boats!

HOK and Auto Air, and more stuff-

http://www.airheadairbrush.com/index.htm

http://www.airheadairbrush.com/House%20of%20Kolor.htm

http://www.airbrushhok.com/airbrushforum/index.php

Auto Air and more-

http://www.dixieart.com/CreatexAutoAir.html

http://www.dixieart.com/

HOK Home-

http://www.houseofkolor.com/hok/index.jsp

HOK, Xotic, and more-

http://www.innate.com/home.htm

My favorite clear, PPG DCU2021-

http://www.pwpaints.com/images/downloads/dcu2021-p-199.pdf

PPG, 3M, HOK and more-

http://www.ketone.com/

Have fun, airbrushing and painting boats is a hobby in itself!

Oh yeah, go with a kit, or the small bottles for lower pricing. A quart of color will paint many boats, way more than you'll want probably. I get the small 2 to 4 oz bottles some of these airbrush sites offer. For auto clears, go ahead and get a quart. The catalyzer-type clears store just fine at room temp, so you can keep leftovers for future boats. Just mix the amount you need with the appropriate hardener and reducer.

 

[rcboatlover]

WOW! Thanks for the links. Guess I will have to break down and buy some auto paints. I heard they can be dangerous to work with so I wanted to stay away from them. Good thing I put in an exaust fan in the shop!

 

[Don Ferrette]

"IMHO, the best way is automotive type multistage painting, using a good compatible clear-coat for a HARD shiny fuel-proof finish."

The only drawback with multi stage paints as in basecoat/clearcoat is that alot of your bases are not fuel proof. Even though you shoot a fuel proof clear over top all it takes is a scratch in the clear that makes it thru to the base & you can have paint separation from fuel exposure. I've seen this enough times that even when I shoot scale boats I'll have single stage colors mixed custom for what I need & then shoot the clear after the application of decals. If you have the choice when picking your colors go with a paint grade that will give you a fuel resistant finish without the clear. Plus if you're not using any decals or graphics then you don't even have to fool with the clear at all. I've had very good results with PPG Concept series. B)

 

[Zimmerman]

Hey Guys!

I don't think the rules have changed on paint products that contain Iso-cyanate or other cyanide compounds as "plasticising" agents. If you spray these and inhale the fumes often enough it can be lethal. When Imron first came out it was supposed to be available only to professionals who were setup to use uncontaminated closed outside source air breathing masks. Am I wrong about this? Rich

 

[ClayGlover]

"IMHO, the best way is automotive type multistage painting, using a good compatible clear-coat for a HARD shiny fuel-proof finish."
The only drawback with multi stage paints as in basecoat/clearcoat is that alot of your bases are not fuel proof. Even though you shoot a fuel proof clear over top all it takes is a scratch in the clear that makes it thru to the base & you can have paint separation from fuel exposure. I've seen this enough times that even when I shoot scale boats I'll have single stage colors mixed custom for what I need & then shoot the clear after the application of decals. If you have the choice when picking your colors go with a paint grade that will give you a fuel resistant finish without the clear. Plus if you're not using any decals or graphics then you don't even have to fool with the clear at all. I've had very good results with PPG Concept series. B)

hmmm, i haven't had the problem yet, butif you've seen it, then I believe it. But single stage paints will limit your colors and special effects selection. I guess it's a question of longevity vs. beauty. Single stage would be easier and lighter.

 

[ClayGlover]

nice example of possibilities-

Ripped Cat