Top Speed 2

[Ronald van Essen]

HI Terry

When sanding the sponsons, you have to use a square sanding block and use that to do the job, NOT the boat along sanding paper. The inside of the sponsons, where the air is going through make a nice sort of sharp edge, so you have to sand from the inside and along the running surface to keep that edge sharp.

It takes a little effort, but like the guys tell you here, its worth it when done properly.

Ronald

 

[topfuel443]

Ok Terry, now I see what the confusion is, I wasnt sure before, but it makes sense now, and my explanation doesnt cover it as clear as I hoped it would.

You DO NOT want to sand the edge off where boat sits on the table. This "point" or "corner" is extremely important to how the boat handles, especially in corners. You mentioned one way would be to lay the boat flat on a big peice sand paper on a table and move the boat back and forth (this is when I realized the confusion) This not the way to do it. The first way you metioned, with the sanding block IS the way to do it. basically if you look at the boat from the back, at eye level, you will see the angle on the bottom of the sposnons. It starts at the inner most point (what the boat sits on on a table) and angles up slightly to the outer edge of the sponson. You must keep this angle the same. Sand the entire width of the sposnon to make it flat, as well as keeping inner "edge" (where it sits in the table) very sharp. Does this make sense?

If not, I will take some pictures of one of my boats today and point out what and where to sand. I will post them when I am done.

~James

 

[tmunn]

Thanks guys .

I think i have it done correctly.I used a flat straight peice of plywood wrapped in 220 sand paper and sanded the bottom of the sponson as well as the inside,keeping the same profile as what was there while removing the material that would NOT let it lay flat.

I then finished up by placing 600 emery cloth on the block and made my work smooth as well as took the shine of the gellcoat on the other surfaces that meet the water during launch and running.

I checked it on a pane of glass and it looks good and will rest on the rear 1/3 of the sponsons with minimal down pressure

James,

I did not read your post until i had finished the steps above and only sanded enough of the gel coat on one sponson to let it lay flat as described in the earlier post.

The other sponson needed gelcoat as well as a some glass removed to acheive the desired results.

1)do I now need to protect the exposed glass and if so how is this done.

2)should i go back and taper my sanded area out more from the bottom of the sponsons to the outside edge.giving it a more gradual feathered look. and is this only necessary for the newly re-worked area.

I want to finish the hull bottom before i re-install anything else.

thanks a lot guys for the help.

Terry

 

[Ronald van Essen]

Gabe

You have it made it very clear. I can tell your expertise.

But how do I measure the angle of the engine? :huh:

Right now I do eyeballing. So what equipment can I use for that.

Ronald.

 

[topfuel443]

Terry, It sounds like youve got it pretty close.

To your question number 1, If it is exposed cloth, I would use thinned epoxy or even thin CA then resand to get smooth, all you need to do is "seal" the area that broke through. If its slightly rough, no huge problem as this helps reduce the vacuum effect of the a smooth surface runbning over water. I actually cross-sand my sponson bottoms with 300 grit paper, Perpendicular to the running direction. It helps create air bubles, which frees up the running surface and make for a nice fast boat that doesnt suck down into the water.

On to question number 2, I not sure what you are refering to..... You shouldnt have to feather anything out to the side..., it should have all been sanded all the way out to the outer edge. Am I reading your question right?

you may want to feather a little from the front portion of the sanded part towards the front of the boat, but it really doesnt matter too much.

Ronald, I have been designing a box set-up board that uses etched lines at various degree marks, a laser pointer is mounted on to the prop shaft and where ever the laser is pointing, I will be able to determine the amount of degree I have changed, simple algebra really. It also works for height adjustments. As long as it is used in a consistent manner, it should produce consistent results. Before, we used shim stock material, one shim was a 1/2 degree, of course that chages when you change motor mounts.... which is what ive done.

~James

 

[topfuel443]

hopefullly this may clear-up some of the other guys questions on how to sand sponson bottoms.

just click on each picture and study it.

have questions? please ask away....

~James

https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=565

 

[tmunn]

great,those pictures are very clear next time post them first

My next step is to seal with thin ca and then when the ca sets up I will sand with 600 To smoothen.

I think it turned out really well but what do I know.

I have no rough spots by ythe way just a couple areas the just removing the gel coat was not quit enough.

Thanks a lot and i'll be back when I get the boat setup and need some balancing help.

When someone says say 30% for the balance point and the model is 30" long from the rear of sponson to the tip of the sponson would I be correct in saying the balance point would be 9" from the rear of the sponson.

Terry

 

[Ed.R]

James,

Those photos are the best way to explain it. They helped out alot for a newbie.

I'm in the process of building a 34" WOF ,my first build. On the plans for a 28/30 it has an additional edge you pick up using the side sheeting and it says to bondo the edge. If you can understand what I 'm saying ,hard to explain for a newbie but I did the same on my build up .Will this work.Its for a sport D.If I had our camera I would so you better.

Ed

 

[tmunn]

I was about to install my engine and noticed that the RIGHTside of the transom where the motor bolts on, viewed from the top and at the rear of the boat is farther ahead than the right.

Is this something that is built in due to prop wash or to offset engine torque.

If not i can shim out my 1/2 plywood spacer that they recommend to use with the ts2 or i can shim it out between the plywood and the mount with some washers.

just want to know if it's supposed to be square with the back of the sponsons.

Thanks a bunch

Terry

 

[RodneyPierce]

Here is what I have done so far to the TS2. Sanded down the bottom of the sponsons this far so far, and it still isnt PERFECTLY flat.

 

[topfuel443]

Yes Terry, 30% of 30 inches is sovled as such, .30 X 30" = 9"

Im not sure if thats what they call for, but I would definately recommend atleast 32%

.32 X 30" = 9.6" It doesnt seem like much, but its huge...

Terry, its not clear to me what you are asking about the transom. Do you mean that the transom is not perpendicular to the running surface of the sponsons? or do you mean that, when looked at from above, the transom is offset to the right? meaning the transom is closer to the right sponson than it is to the left. If this is the question, then yes, it probably is correct, lots of boats run offset transoms, mine included, But it certainly should be perpendicular (forming a perfect right angle) to the sponson running surface.

Rodney, looks good, looks like you had to remove quite a bit of glass to get where you need it huh? I now see the outside strake that Jerry was refering to earlier, that makes it really fun the sand....

as for the question about the edge... do you mean the bottom riding surface hangs over the outer edge (like mine in the picts) and you fill the void with bondo? You could fill it, but I and many others leave the overhang unfilled, it is there to let the water break away from the hull.

~James

 

[Chris Wittrig]

Just a couple of words based on the TS2 I just finished and tested yesterday. I think some of you might find this interesting. This is the third TS2 that I have built and the second that is my own. I put an OS on the boat, but mounted it to one of our engine brackets which gives it an additional 5/8" of setback. I made sure the ride pad area was true, set the trim to absolute neutral, put a b/c 1440 on it and ran it. Notice that I didn't say I added weight in order to set the C/G. I ran the boat with the extra setback and no weight in the boat. I only found the boat to wash the air out at about the 2/3 point of the back straight which would require about a 1/2 degree of negative to mitigate though I have yet to make this change and will likely start with 1/4 degree. Other than that I raised the prop up a bit to help it RPM. No bounce when it turned. In fact, I could give it full input at full throttle and the boat would simply set and turn...no bounce.

Why? My boat too does not sit flat on a table...it's not supposed to. That rocker area is designed into most boats. Moving the engine back in this manner was the same thing we did to a B&M LeeCraft 7 years ago, which was something completely different than what the setup instructions called for. We also allowed this to move the C/G back almost 3/4" from what the setup book called for. What this is doing is not only moving the C/G back, but it's also changing the mechanical leverage point of the boat.

 

[ZIonOB75]

I'm also workin' my ts2 CG,i tried playing around the CG 9-10 inches but seems nothing works, present problem is bouncing and hooking during turns, in straight run it planes pretty good but as soon as boat slow down for turns here comes bouncing, so i tried moving back the CG to 8 inches by removing all the wts.in the front and put it just rear of fuel tank with 7.5 oz and it's a lot better but not flawless, still mild bouncing is there but boat will turn now in higher speed and much stable, new problem arised it's spinning-out this time, so now anybody experienced this?

 

[Chris Wittrig]

I'm also workin' my ts2 CG,i tried playing around the CG 9-10 inches but seems nothing works, present problem is bouncing and hooking during turns, in straight run it planes pretty good but as soon as boat slow down for turns here comes bouncing, so i tried moving back the CG to 8 inches by removing all the wts.in the front and put it just rear of fuel tank with 7.5 oz and it's a lot better but not flawless, still mild bouncing is there but boat will turn now in higher speed and much stable, new problem arised it's spinning-out this time, so now anybody experienced this?

I've found hooking/spinning to be related to too much negative trim and possibly the prop being too high. Too much negative can set the nose too hard when you turn and can also blow the prop causing the nose to fall harder than you want. The prop being too high can exagerate this.

 

[Chris Wittrig]

I'm also workin' my ts2 CG,i tried playing around the CG 9-10 inches but seems nothing works, present problem is bouncing and hooking during turns, in straight run it planes pretty good but as soon as boat slow down for turns here comes bouncing, so i tried moving back the CG to 8 inches by removing all the wts.in the front and put it just rear of fuel tank with 7.5 oz and it's a lot better but not flawless, still mild bouncing is there but boat will turn now in higher speed and much stable, new problem arised it's spinning-out this time, so now anybody experienced this?

I've found hooking/spinning to be related to too much negative trim and possibly the prop being too high. Too much negative can set the nose too hard when you turn and can also blow the prop causing the nose to fall harder than you want. The prop being too high can exagerate this.

 

[topfuel443]

Different strokes for different folks, what I mentioned works and works well for me.

Yes, most boats have a rocker built into them, hence the reason I was explaining to push the rear of the boat down on the table to make sure the ride pad area is flat. When there is no weight on the rear, it doesnt sit on the rear. :blink:

~James

 

[tmunn]

I already have mine sanded so it will sit on the rear portion of the sponsons when slight pressure is applied.

I have read other places and threads where sanding this portion of the sponsons made a big difference but i don't know what's right or wrong.

anyway here is another explaination of the offset in my transom.

if i lay a straightedge across the rear of the transom where the mounting bolts screw into and so it is laying on the tops of the sponsons, this what i see.

the right side of the 12" straightedge is a lot farther toward the front of the right sponson.

if i bring the right side of my straightedge back to be paralell with the rear of the right sponson and still keeping contact with the left side of the transom with my straightedge there is aprox. 1/8th of a gap between the straightedge and the right side od the transom .

the right side of the transom is farther ahead than the left..

is this a better or worse explaination. <_<

terry

 

[RodneyPierce]

I already have mine sanded so it will sit on the rear portion of the sponsons when slight pressure is applied.

I have read other places and threads where sanding this portion of the sponsons made a big difference but i don't know what's right or wrong.

anyway here is another explaination of the offset in my transom.

if i lay a straightedge across the rear of the transom where the mounting bolts screw into and so it is laying on the tops of the sponsons, this what i see.

the right side of the 12" straightedge is a lot farther toward the front of the right sponson.

if i bring the right side of my straightedge back to be paralell with the rear of the right sponson and still keeping contact with the left side of the transom with my straightedge there is aprox. 1/8th of a gap between the straightedge and the right side od the transom .

the right side of the transom is farther ahead than the left..

is this a better or worse explaination. <_<

terry

Terry, better explanation. I do belive it is supposed to be straight across, sounds to me like your hull has quite abit of glass problems with it. You can try and make that distance up with your spacer that you made, just make sure that it is perfectly straight. Hit me up later on AIM and we can chat about it. Rodney

 

[topfuel443]

yeah Terry, thats definately not good... you can try to space it out straight.

~James

 

[BigRed]

Well from what I saw on my TS2 the sponsons should lay flat all the way up to the water deflection strake... so both strakes lay flat... as far as the transom mine is not offset... it does have a negative thrust angle to it... The negative angle on the transom seems to be equivalent to the curve that the top of the hull has from front to back but there's no angle on it from left to right....

I have sent my hull back for a replacement since it separated at the joint around the transom so I'm just speaking from what I remembered when I was assembling and sanding =)