Too twichy to handle

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Wally Teresch

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2006
Messages
206
My 45 rigger is so delicate on the controls I am reluctant to run it. I'm thinking of cutting the rudder shorter but that may hamper the turning abilities. I've played with the radio and reset the endpoint travel of the servos and also added exponential but still is too squirrely.

Will the shorter rudder help? How deep down past the rear sponsons are others running?

I have the boat entered in the Northern Nats next weekend but if I don't come up with a solution I'll have to pull it from the race.

Thanks

Wally
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Move the connection at the servo further in on the arm and move the connection at the rudder further out on the arm. This should help a bunch and gives the servo better control of the rudder.

Eric
 
And whatever u do dont cut the rudder right now. That could cause worse problems like spinning darty hooky ect. Try to slow down the servo speed with your radio as well as what eric said.

What boat is this?
 
I boat the boat and was told it was a Jaguar but have been told since that it is not. It has no rear sponsons but the tub goes from flat at the front to a concave at the transom.

I dropped down the linkage on the servo one hole just before the rain started yesterday.

How deep do you run the rudder?
 
I boat the boat and was told it was a Jaguar but have been told since that it is not. It has no rear sponsons but the tub goes from flat at the front to a concave at the transom.

I dropped down the linkage on the servo one hole just before the rain started yesterday.

How deep do you run the rudder?

Hey Walthor

Make sure you have zero play in the control rod at the servo and rudder and make sure nothing is loose on the rudder itself.

I will be in London all day Friday if you still need some help .

Tim K
 
I would think the exponential throw would make it more twitchy. I set all of my stuff to be linear that way I know when I move the wheel on my radio x- degrees I get that proportional x-degrees of travel out of the servo wherever the it might be in its throw.

With exponential as you turn your radio wheel the servo travel progressively increases (or decreases depending on how its set) as you turn it.

Hope this helps,

Brian
 
i agree with brian, turn the exponential down, i run minus/below linear on my jae .21, anything higher made it very darty/twitchy. it was WAAAY too sensitive to steering input no matter where i set the endpoints, until i slowed the steering down. it had nothing to do with how sharp it turned, just how quickly.
 
The single best way to "settle down" a too quick or twitchy rudder is as previously mentioned, move the connection at the pushrod closer in towards the servo output shaft and move the connection at the rudder further out. All of my riggers have the pushrod typically at the first hole out from the output shaft on the servo arm. I don't like using the exponential in the radio as it still speeds up as it gets closer to the endpoint, smooth linear travel is what you want throughout the travel of the servo. Most servos nowadays are already too fast in the rated 60 degree response time for boats and it's even worse on the digitals, you simply don't need all that quickness on a rudder. :wacko:
 
The single best way to "settle down" a too quick or twitchy rudder is as previously mentioned, move the connection at the pushrod closer in towards the servo output shaft and move the connection at the rudder further out. All of my riggers have the pushrod typically at the first hole out from the output shaft on the servo arm. I don't like using the exponential in the radio as it still speeds up as it gets closer to the endpoint, smooth linear travel is what you want throughout the travel of the servo. Most servos nowadays are already too fast in the rated 60 degree response time for boats and it's even worse on the digitals, you simply don't need all that quickness on a rudder. :wacko:

there's a man that knows riggers. listen ti him B) . i used exponential due to lack of time testing on friday before a race. didn't want to dissamble my steering with the time allowed. now that i've gotten used to it, it's ok to drive. i cheated & turned up my endpoints, to avoid the steering speeding up nearing the limits of travel. something else to deal with during the off season, i'm gonna leave it be 'til after the fall nats.
 
I tried going down one hole on the servo arm and it was better but still squirrely. Went down two holes and it has problems in the turns. Not enough through in the rudder now. I think what I'll do is dig out the slowest servo I have and replace the one in the boat. Then I'll put a regulator between the receiver and the servo so it runs on 4.8v only. That should slow things down a bit.

If that doesn't work, someone at the last race suggested I move the turn fin forward. Don't really want to do that but if it works, what the heck.

Wally
 
Moving the turn fin forward is the WRONG DIRECTION that will make it turn faster and make your twitcy problem worse. Move it back as far as you can. Be careful on putting a slow servo in that could be a issue also as it may not have much torque. Try using your radio to slow the steering speed down. Bet that will help
 
I agree moving the turn fin forward is the wrong direction, The turn fin should be positioned at or behind the CG. If it is forward of the CG it will hook. I suggest to check the fin location with respect to the CG and move backward if necessary/
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Back
Top